Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I now have r34 4pots :D

pulled the olive out and that was all the modification needed

still have some air in the system somewhere tho :/

anyone know if there is a bleeding process for the abs? (older abs like32 my had have bleed nipples on the actual unit)

got my Nismo ECU today!
What is it? A replacement stand alone ecu like a pfc or a standard ecu with a daughterboard and tunable chip? Straight plug in or wire in? Sounds exciting!
What is it? A replacement stand alone ecu like a pfc or a standard ecu with a daughterboard and tunable chip? Straight plug in or wire in? Sounds exciting!

Its a complete replacement, standalone ecu. Not tunable, its just a 'nismo knows best' sort of case. Should just plug straight in (Judging by the images Ive seen of it compared to the standard ecu.. its the same size/shape).

Won't it have to have a daughterboard or something in order for Nismo to tune it? There must be something along these lines or they've just put a sticker on it and it's the same tune we all have.

Won't it have to have a daughterboard or something in order for Nismo to tune it? There must be something along these lines or they've just put a sticker on it and it's the same tune we all have.

maybe the daughterboard.....but it not just re stickered .... have just taken the Haltech piggy back off and run it with both the standard ECU and Nismo ECU.....the are definitely different. Am going to get it run up on a dyno next week to show the differences with my set up......IMO I think the Nismo would be awesome with the standard turbo.....will find out later tonight how it goes with a standard turbo maybe.

That's what I thought, it has to have been modified in some way to tune it. What are your seat of the pants feelings regarding the differences? I guess it's hard to tell if there's more timing other than if it's pinging. Does having this help SAS at all? Surely they would already know how to put a daughterboard in and would know how to tune it? I can't see where the hold up is with this, can someone explain to me as I'm obviously missing something. Not having a go or anything I'm just curious where the difficuluty lies with this whole re-flash thing.

That's what I thought, it has to have been modified in some way to tune it. What are your seat of the pants feelings regarding the differences? I guess it's hard to tell if there's more timing other than if it's pinging. Does having this help SAS at all? Surely they would already know how to put a daughterboard in and would know how to tune it? I can't see where the hold up is with this, can someone explain to me as I'm obviously missing something. Not having a go or anything I'm just curious where the difficuluty lies with this whole re-flash thing.

Seat of the pant's = more progressive midrange application with boost...instead of the peaky shit, light footed response better, shift better, 6,700rpm limit. Like I said before I am thinking this will be a better unit for the stock turbo...will let you know later on tonight how it goes.

SAS will get the tune and have promised me a tune ASAP on delivery....hold up is the delivery of the programming unit.

wound up the rear left about a cm due to scrapeage of rim + coilover <_< rims are too wide... they're already sitting flush, so don't want to use spacers... may have to sell them off and get something else a half inch narrower :)

+ front window tint :laugh:

wound up the rear left about a cm due to scrapeage of rim + coilover <_< rims are too wide... they're already sitting flush, so don't want to use spacers... may have to sell them off and get something else a half inch narrower :)

+ front window tint :laugh:

what shade did you go on the window tint josh? darkest legal? just wondering how it looks against the stock rears shading.

Started fitting Series 2 R33 rotors and calipers to the Stagea today. from 16mm thick to 18mm thick and Sumitomo twin piston calipers replacing the 1 pot calipers. Used pads in it for now until I order some QFM this week. Finishing off the install and bleeding tomorrow.

Then next weekend fitting 297mm rotors and 4 piston Sumitomo calipers ... and ordering some QFM pads up front too. :)

All purchased (not inc QFM pads) for under $150 (and some labour). :D

My wife and I just bought a 2003 Mini Cooper S for her to use as a daily. That means the Stag is no longer a daily driver and I can do what I want to it. Hehehe :(

Oh, another positive... it turns out the Mini has a John Cooper Works kit which boosts power from 120 to 155kw :) Previous owner must have spent a lot of money on it. Kit includes exhaust, supercharger, cylinder head, air box, injectors and remap. Bonus for me. The down side is that I'm overseas and the wife picked it up yesterday, so I'll have to wait 2 weeks til I can drive it.

Fitted Tein master wagon rear coilovers, Apexi adjustables coilys to the front , Sorted my squealing brakes .

Took it for MOT ... and had forgotten to put the CAT back on ... Failed on emissions ... Div.

I now have the fantastic task of removing 2 snapped bolts in the cat so i can fit it again .. Great.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...