Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

While I'm waiting for my R34 brakes to arrive for the Stagea, I decided to remove the passenger mirror and hunt for any rust coming thru. Found some just starting and decided to rub it all back and treat it so it won't spread.

Two more weeks until Time Attack ... so in two weeks I'll need to fit the R34 brakes, braided lines, bleed the brake system thru with fresh DOT4 fluid, oil change, filter change, O2 sensor change, and a dyno tune.

:banana:

While I'm waiting for my R34 brakes to arrive for the Stagea, I decided to remove the passenger mirror and hunt for any rust coming thru. Found some just starting and decided to rub it all back and treat it so it won't spread.

Two more weeks until Time Attack ... so in two weeks I'll need to fit the R34 brakes, braided lines, bleed the brake system thru with fresh DOT4 fluid, oil change, filter change, O2 sensor change, and a dyno tune.

:banana:

took me about 3 or 4 hours to slowly cruise through my r34 brake swap

pull the restrictor out of the 34 brakes and use your existing banjo bolt with both original copper washers without modification

the 3-4 hours also included going to get more brake fluid and bleeding everything twice and taking the master cyl out cos i got air in it

the thread on the stock rotors (to pop them off the hubs) is metric fine pitch, cant remember what size tho

Jason it`s a simple thing to do ok not hard mate at all ,front Rotor`s slotted may be RDA954S,& EBC DP1671 & there Black stuff ,you can look at yellow stuff your call,

Now all this about then not fitting ???? ,LAST TIME I WILL SAY THIS OK

I FITTED THEN NO MOD`S OK,

Searched and searched for rotor and pad replacement for S2 stagea!!!! Read through all 19 pages of stagea brakes! Waiting for response on hpx pads. Just been on Bendix site again.

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/QFM-Street-Track-Br...=item56376b982c

they are also a site sponsor here, dont get the ar1m or you wil chew through rotors if your not getting them hot enough

ask them about the hpx's

and if you get them through sau they are cheaper

Fitted a boost controller today, Blitz SBC R. I don't believe the difference it made to the low end response, it seems to be on boost all the time now. :)

I checked the wideband higher up in the revs and it is running very lean, with a lot more punch. I had to drop the boost back down to a reasonable level until I can get to the tuner.

post-63525-1278992054_thumb.jpg

Wideband reset, torque converter lockup and petrol primer for starting on ethanol. There's still heaps of room for the ejector button though. :)

Stainless buttons are from Jaycar, they come in momentary or latching and are led backlit. (blue green and red.)

Fitted a boost controller today, Blitz SBC R. I don't believe the difference it made to the low end response, it seems to be on boost all the time now. :)

I checked the wideband higher up in the revs and it is running very lean, with a lot more punch. I had to drop the boost back down to a reasonable level until I can get to the tuner.

:D

You got that in in a hurry!

(all those wires along that side made it too difficult to mount the buttons?)

"it seems to be on boost all the time now." - Statement to make Jetwreck more envious by any chance?

very pretty Scotty....red is gay though!!!!!!could have at least put some pretty screws there.....should have done the carbon fibre look ;)

only kidding bud....looks gay but good :P.....not that gay is a bad thing :)

Cam, might be envious of instant boost but at least I have some real boost all the time :P.......that's the only comeback I have! :D

Turned up last night, had to get it in... :D

How did we go with the exhaust leak mate?

Exhaust manifold. Have yet to rip the heat shields off to have a look, certainly hope I have not sheared a bolt/stud... although that would be an easier fix than if the manifold is cracked.

Cam, might be envious of instant boost but at least I have some real boost all the time :banana:.......that's the only comeback I have! :D

"Real boost" all the time? Oh yeah?... well... erm... (stupid f*ck'n exhaust leak) ;)

EDIT: Suppose I should actually contribute here.

Okay, well a couple of weeks ago I installed my lovely Nismo exhaust in leu of the Fujitsubo Legalis. Same design, different muffler lol

On Monday night I decided to change the aerodynamic abilities of the rear end of my car by installing a stealth black trailer :banana:

IMG_2935rs.jpg

Edited by iamhe77

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi guys . Can someone help me  I bought an Android screen for my Nissan fuga but it won't turn on   
    • My guesstimate, with no real numbers to back it up, is it won't effect it greatly at all.its not a huge change in position, and I can't see the air flow changing from in turbulence that much based on distance, and what's in front of it. Johnny and Brad may have some more numbers to share from experience though.
    • Which solenoid? Why was it changed? Again, why was this done? ...well, these wear..but ultimately, why was it changed? Did you reset the idle voltage level after fitment? I'm just a tad confused ~ the flash code doesn't allude to these items being faulty, so in my mind the only reason to change these things, would be some drive-ability issue....and if that's the case, what was the problem? Those questions aside, check if the dropping resistor is OK ...should be 11~14 ohms (TCU doesn't throw a flash code for this) ~ also, these TCU designs have full time power (to keep fault code RAM alive), and I think that'll throw a logic code (as opposed to the 10 hardware codes), if that power is missing (or the ram has gone bad in the TCU, which you can check..but that's another story here perhaps).
    • Question for people who "know stuff" I am looking at doing the new intake like the one in the picture (the pictured is designed for the OEM TB and intake plenum), this design has the filter behind the front bar, but, the filter sits where the OEM duct heads into the front bar, and the standard aperture when the OEM ducting is removed allows the filter to pulled back out of the front bar into the engine bay for servicing, a simple blanking plate is used to seal the aperture behind the filter This will require a 45° silicone hose from the TB, like the alloy pipe that is currently there, to another 45° silicone hose to get a straight run to the aperture in the front bar Question: how will it effect the tune if I move the MAF about 100-150mm forward, the red is around where my MAF is currently, and the green would be where it would end up Like this This is the hole the filter goes through  Ends up like this LOL..Cheers    
    • Despite the level up question, actually I do know what that is....it is a pressure sender wire.  So check out around the oil filter for an oil pressure sender, or maybe fuel pressure near the filter or on the engine. Possibly but less likely coolant pressure sensor because they tend to be combined temp/pressure senders if you have one. Could also be brake pressure (in a brake line somewhere pre ABS) but maybe I'm the only one that has that on a skyline.
×
×
  • Create New...