Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

put in red LEDs to the climate control, cig and key light. dash is next......

also put in nismo clear side indicators. ordered sunday night, arrived today! thanks CJMotors!!

where did you get the led's from? i need to do mine

did they come in/with the holders?

You have a 2wd or are you getting the crownwheel and pinion changed over?

Have a s2 RS4V, kept the stag housing with existing crownwheel and pinion, put shimmed up LSD centre out of my 32 in to the stagea housing. Had to use the 32gtst half shafts and transfer the ABS rings over from the old shafts. The flanges on the 32gtst half shafts bolted up to the stag axles fine.

Also fitted a 33gtr front swaybar, couldn't fit the rear one as it didn't come with rubbers and there was no way the stockers would fit :)

Haven't given it a good drive yet as had a boot full of crap on the way home, does feel like it turns in a lot nicer and has less roll. Can also feel the diff doing its' thing, need to finish reinstalling everything on to the carpc and get it back in the car so I can turn VCT on.. it doesn't even contemplate trying to turn the tyres without VCT :wub:

**hopes it rains on the way to work tomorrow**

P.S. cheers to chuckie for his help!

Edited by bubba
nice rims.. want to see pic soon plus this will give me a good indication of how wide i can go on mine!!

P.S you have trained your wife well.. im yet to aquire the brainwashing skills :):wub:

whats the bet the tyres and camber settings cost more than the rims.. lol :)

Edited by PetroDola
nice rims.. want to see pic soon plus this will give me a good indication of how wide i can go on mine!!

P.S you have trained your wife well.. im yet to aquire the brainwashing skills :wub::)

Go and watch Star War's....Jedi mind trick.....it's gold! works better if they have had a couple of drinks :)

example below

Edited by Jetwreck
where did you get the led's from? i need to do mine

did they come in/with the holders?

got them from 666DAN.

i have also done the 3 DIN gauges.

unfortunately the LEDs he gave me for the climate control buttons dont fit - they're too tall and foul on the circuit board so i had to leave those stock. tried filing the LED's down but couldnt get them low enough without risking exposing the element. bit annoyed because i did actaully send him the thread that explained this problem.....but he said they'd fit and sold them to me anyway. anyway only a few bucks. also had to custom fit the LED for the key surround as it's a whack one that i'd say you can only get from nissan - part of a huge housing etc - had to drill it out and solder in a t5 LED.

anyway, onwards and upwards!

also managed to manipulate the wiring on my alarm siren so that it actually scares people rather than sounding like an ailing bird.

Go and watch Star War's....Jedi mind trick.....it's gold! works better if they have had a couple of drinks :)

example below

hehe got a jedi mind trick for getting these 19x10's on my car... im thinking ill turn up at the tyre shop get laughed at then told a serious NO they wont fit :S

hehe got a jedi mind trick for getting these 19x10's on my car... im thinking ill turn up at the tyre shop get laughed at then told a serious NO they wont fit :S

Nothing a 5lb mallet wont fix. :)

You may have to roll the guards a bit...

hehe got a jedi mind trick for getting these 19x10's on my car... im thinking ill turn up at the tyre shop get laughed at then told a serious NO they wont fit :S

Are they 19x10 all round? Whats the offset?

10" fit in the rear pretty easy pending the offset, 9.5" +35 are perfect on the front. Im sure with a bit of a flair and tyre stretch you can comfortably fit 10" up front depending on your offset

Are they 19x10 all round? Whats the offset?

10" fit in the rear pretty easy pending the offset, 9.5" +35 are perfect on the front. Im sure with a bit of a flair and tyre stretch you can comfortably fit 10" up front depending on your offset

Bah the boxes said 19x10 but the rims are actually stamped 9.5 phew looks like it should be good for 235's

but no centrecaps :)

also.. anyone with a GT2 HDI intercooler what size slim line fan did you require for the condenser ?

Edited by PetroDola
put in red LEDs to the climate control, cig and key light. dash is next......

also put in nismo clear side indicators. ordered sunday night, arrived today! thanks CJMotors!!

I had Chris Rogers install double din JVC DVD player with bluetooth and i pod adaptors.Brilliant!!! Chris also fitted cruise control which i tried out between Aspley and Caloundra.Perfect!!!

Highly reccommend Chris Rogers for all work such as this. ;)

Bah the boxes said 19x10 but the rims are actually stamped 9.5 phew looks like it should be good for 235's

but no centrecaps ;)

also.. anyone with a GT2 HDI intercooler what size slim line fan did you require for the condenser ?

the more stretch, the less protection for the lip

i'd be going 255 at least

Bah the boxes said 19x10 but the rims are actually stamped 9.5 phew looks like it should be good for 235's

but no centrecaps ;)

also.. anyone with a GT2 HDI intercooler what size slim line fan did you require for the condenser ?

I reckon 235 is probably a bit too much of a stretch, 245 at least...

Spal thermo's are quite thin, but I'm sure one of the guys who've fitted the kit will chime in with the best option.

P.S. Hurry uuup, I want to see pics! :)

I reckon 235 is probably a bit too much of a stretch, 245 at least...

Spal thermo's are quite thin, but I'm sure one of the guys who've fitted the kit will chime in with the best option.

P.S. Hurry uuup, I want to see pics! ;)

More like 255, 265 - you only need 8in rims for 235.
More like 255, 265 - you only need 8in rims for 235.

So, yeah like I said; at least.

Some people go for that extreme stretch, personally, I don't like it. I'm running 245's on an 8" rim, but I ran 245's on my last set of 9" rims and they sat just proud of the rim edge, so on a 9.5" they would've been level, which is why I said that.

Also, after seeing Bbenny's 19x 8.5" Enkeis, with 225's (which I would've though were too narrow) looking spot on, an inch wider with another 20mm of tyre, would be about right. Just one man's opinion.

Anyhoo, back to the show.

Edited by Daleo
also.. anyone with a GT2 HDI intercooler what size slim line fan did you require for the condenser ?

I am pretty sure this is the same fan that I have on my car with the HDI kit.

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/HIGH-PERFORMANCE-12...=item3360c2492b

Cheers

Andy

Tested 2WD + LSD in the wet this morning.. definitely lights both wheels :happy:

It's pretty tight, can feel it carrying on like the 2-way in the skyline does but not as harsh.

The tight LSD + bigger front swaybar has given a bit of mid corner push but it's very predictable and turn in is much nicer! I'm thinking once the bigger rear swaybar goes on it should remove most of that mid corner push and make it a smidge more tail happy :)

Overall, very, very happy with the budget mods.. $50 swaybar, $220 diff ($20 for shims, $200 for my diff guy to set it up) ;)

the more stretch, the less protection for the lip

i'd be going 255 at least

235's will be fine. i'm running 235's on my 18x10s, they aren't really that stretched, and the lip protector still hangs out a little bit.

Nothing a 5lb mallet wont fix. :mad:

You may have to roll the guards a bit...

im thinking so scotty and so says the tyre shop.. weve come up with a formula 245 all round and rolled gaurds (gotta be 93PS to keep em legal)- dunlop sports max's

for roughly $430 each which aint too bad for 19's

The kyb's go on next week and then its straight off the rollin gaurds shop then the tyre shop. :ninja:

Edited by PetroDola

What are the offsets PetroDola?

Are they rolling or flaring the guards? The fronts are already "rolled" from the factory, the rears can be rolled.

Is yours a RS? let me know the offset and I can work out exactly how far out from the factory guards they will sit, or if they will foul the front control arm.

Ben

Edited by bbenny

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
    • But first....while I was there, I also swapped across the centre console box for the other style where the AV inputs don't intrude into the (very limited !) space.  Part# was 96926-4GA0A, 284H3-4GA0B, 284H3-4GA0A. (I've already swapped the top 12v socket for a USB bulkhead in this pic, it fit the hole without modification:) Comparison of the 2: Basically to do the console you need to remove the DS and PS side console trim (they slide up and back, held in by clips only) Then remove the back half of the console top trim with the cupholders, pops up, all clips again but be careful at the front as it is pretty flimsy. Then slide the shifter boot down, remove the spring clip, loose it forever somewhere in the car the pull the shift knob off. Remove the tiny plastic piece on DS near "P" and use something thin and long (most screwdrivers won't fit) to push down the interlock and put the shifter down in D for space. There is one screw at the front, then the shifter surround and ashtray lift up. There are 3 or 4 plugs underneath and it is off. Next is the rear cover of the centre console; you need to open the console lid, pop off the trim covering the lid hinge and undo the 2rd screw from the driver's side (the rest all need to come out later so you can do them all now and remove the lid) Then the rear cover unclips (6 clips), start at the top with a trim tool pulling backwards. Once it is off there are 2 screws facing rearwards to remove (need a short phillips for these) and you are done with the rear of the console. There are 4 plugs at the A/V box to unclip Then there are 2 screws at the front of the console, and 2 clips (pull up and back) and the console will come out.
×
×
  • Create New...