Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

It was literally a 20 minute job :( It's been driving me bezerk!

I'm happy to not have you not pay me to not do it? Not? :D

If you want some tape I can probably hook you up. Either that or Con-Tact adhesive backed felt is good for this too.

only kidding mate. my car doesnt have many rattles.

if i hear anything i shouldnt, i just turn up the radio :D

hopefully got a buyer for my corolla so i dont have to sell my other cars due to the gfc!- quite happy as id sell my first born before i sold the stagea :D

anyone recommend a brissy local for a starter rebuild?

Edited by PetroDola
hopefully got a buyer for my corolla so i dont have to sell my other cars due to the gfc!- quite happy as id sell my first born before i sold the stagea :D

anyone recommend a brissy local for a starter rebuild?

From what im told they cant be repaired as it is one of the copper coils that blows out (thats what happened to mine anyway) you will probably need to source a s/h one from a wreckers. I know they are the same as a VQ25, possibly VQ30. 3.5 has a different part number but may fit...

I have one here in need of repair if they happen to find the parts to fix yours...

3/4 of the way through fitting up my new motor with all my other bit's....hopefully tomorrow the motor and gearbox back in!

Nice intake mate... :D

You managed to keep the heat shield too. I bet its easier to work on the turbo out of the car...

From what im told they cant be repaired as it is one of the copper coils that blows out (thats what happened to mine anyway) you will probably need to source a s/h one from a wreckers. I know they are the same as a VQ25, possibly VQ30. 3.5 has a different part number but may fit...

I have one here in need of repair if they happen to find the parts to fix yours...

sobering - i thought it mightve been an oil lubricated one and thats why it cooked.

sourcing one from wreckers isnt going to be easy around these parts , maybe down there, looks like my car is going to be bricking the driveway for weeks to come if thats the case.

what else other than an m35 has a vq25 though ?

thanks for the solid advice Scott

Edited by PetroDola
From what im told they cant be repaired as it is one of the copper coils that blows out (thats what happened to mine anyway) you will probably need to source a s/h one from a wreckers. I know they are the same as a VQ25, possibly VQ30. 3.5 has a different part number but may fit...

I have one here in need of repair if they happen to find the parts to fix yours...

What bit can't be repaired? You have rewinders surely?
howd u do the diff ?

I got a bit carried away in the grass events at the local car show. I think I dumped the clutch too hard in reverse gear... :P

Gunna get it fixed in the new year. New diff, uni joint for the drive shafts, get the rear diff checked out, brass button clutch is a little noisy so that will get a look too.

I am keen to have an A1 drivetrain. Does anyone know if these cars will handle 8000RPM launches? :P

sobering - i thought it mightve been an oil lubricated one and thats why it cooked.

sourcing one from wreckers isnt going to be easy around these parts , maybe down there, looks like my car is going to be bricking the driveway for weeks to come if thats the case.

what else other than an m35 has a vq25 though ?

The J32 Maxima (2009) has a VQ25de I believe. Wouldn't think the starter would be any different to what we have.

Edited by iamhe77

I cleaned my Stagea last night! Filled it up with fuel. (full tank - $100 later FFS!)

Going to clean the interior and do a bit of a service soon!

She goes alright. Not as quick as a Turbo Datsun 1600 though :P But a hell of a lot quieter. :P

I cleaned my Stagea last night! Filled it up with fuel. (full tank - $100 later FFS!)

Going to clean the interior and do a bit of a service soon!

She goes alright. Not as quick as a Turbo Datsun 1600 though :P But a hell of a lot quieter. ;)

Pics?

3/4 of the way through fitting up my new motor with all my other bit's....hopefully tomorrow the motor and gearbox back in!

nice man.

i'm still gonna call you Mr. Flinstone however!

intake looks nice. need to get Mr Fisher to make mine some time sooooooon.

The J32 Maxima (2009) has a VQ25de I believe. Wouldn't think the starter would be any different to what we have.

+1, VQ25dd, but as we know, its FWD... so may fit, maybe not?

Do they have a relay or something that could be kaput?

soo...

finally got the car back in my hands today!!

alot of you know that ive smashed up my engine rather bad... that aside all is well now :blink:

done and spent a dime on it, but is very very good now!!

made 217.10 AWKW/250kw rears on the 21st run @ 16psi.... (poor car!!)

turbo pulls amazing... as per dyno graph :P

post-47249-1291191938_thumb.jpg

Edited by chef_stagea

not bad at all what turbs you running and computer

soo...

finally got the car back in my hands today!!

alot of you know that ive smashed up my engine rather bad... that aside all is well now :)

done and spent a dime on it, but is very very good now!!

made 217.10 AWKW/250kw rears on the 21st run @ 16psi.... (poor car!!)

turbo pulls amazing... as per dyno graph :)

soo...

finally got the car back in my hands today!!

alot of you know that ive smashed up my engine rather bad... that aside all is well now :)

done and spent a dime on it, but is very very good now!!

made 217.10 AWKW/250kw rears on the 21st run @ 16psi.... (poor car!!)

turbo pulls amazing... as per dyno graph :)

Good result and yeah, what turbo? (You need to get that 260RS out from under your name - its confusing!)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
    • You just need a wheel alignment after, so just set them to the same as current and drive to the shop. As there are 2 upper links it may also be worth adding adjustable upper front links at the same time; these reduce bump steer when you move the camber (note that setting those correctly takes a lot longer as you have to recheck the camber at each length of the toe arm, through a range of movement, so you could just ignore that unless the handling becomes unpredictable)
    • I got adjustable after market rear camber arm to replace the stock one's because got sick of having to buy new rear tyres every few months. Can anyone please let me know what the best adjustment length would be. I don't have the old ones anymore to get measurements. I'm guessing the stock measurement minus a few mm would do it. Please any help on replacing them would be fantastic I've watched the YouTube clips but no-one talks about how long to set the camber arm to.
    • Heh. I copied the link to the video direct, instead of the thread I mentioned. But the video is the main value content anyway. Otherwise, yes, in Europe, surely you'd be expected to buy local. Being whichever flavour of Michelin, Continental or Pirelli suits your usage model.
    • Continental have consistently beaten the absolute shit out of every other performance tyre in Wet/Damp/Cold conditions and give up a little bit of time (half a second at most) in the dry. Almost like it's engineered for German conditions or something. I'd def give those a try.
×
×
  • Create New...