Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I'm a bit worried, just checked my oil this morning for the first time in a while and it barely registered on the dipstick, its a hks 2.8L @ around 800hp, only filled it up about 1500km ago but have done a couple of hard track nights and then another rallysprint event so its done some work, not to mention a bit of street driving, I'm using Mobil 1 0-40 , do I need to go for a thinker oil or should I be looking for something more serious. How much oil is acceptable to use when doing track work etc?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/344452-using-oil-how-much-is-too-much/
Share on other sites

wrong oil choice for application 0w-40....is a no no i bet its breaking down (thinning right out) when it gets hot @ your track days. (engine builder clearances play a part here too) i would suggest based on your description above to run 15w-50 for track days and a 5w-40 or 10w-40 for daily duties.

The jap tuner houses i visted years ago told be to always run @ least a 50w at the track in rb26 and it seems to ring true when you look @ the specs of the oil compaines which make oils to suit these engines (not generic oil companies which do a one oil suits all type thing).

NISMO 15w-50 (competition oil) ( http://www.linkauto.com.au/view/page/407.html )

TRUST FRX full spec race oil 20w-60 ( http://trust-power.com/10oil/index.html )

TRUST F2 sport / race 15w-50

MOTUL 300v 15w-50 (power)

HKS turbo racing Pro 10w-50 ( http://www.hks-power.co.jp/products/oil/pro/index.html )

Change oils and i bet it stops.

realistically you shouldn't be using anything of significance.

certainly not that much (what, 1-2L? virtually off the dipstick?)

what's the catchcan like?

Didn't get to check the catchcan this morning, but its never had any oil in it before, never had any blowby, but I'll check can asap, but yeah virtually off dipstick?

I've only just changed to mobil 1, usually use motul v300 and never notice much use at all.

normally I would pay a lot attention to the oil changing but had afew events within a couple of weeks and it just slipped my mind :D

wrong oil choice for application 0w-40....is a no no i bet its breaking down (thinning right out) when it gets hot @ your track days. (engine builder clearances play a part here too) i would suggest based on your description above to run 15w-50 for track days and a 5w-40 or 10w-40 for daily duties.

The jap tuner houses i visted years ago told be to always run @ least a 50w at the track in rb26 and it seems to ring true when you look @ the specs of the oil compaines which make oils to suit these engines (not generic oil companies which do a one oil suits all type thing).

NISMO 15w-50 (competition oil) ( http://www.linkauto.com.au/view/page/407.html )

TRUST FRX full spec race oil 20w-60 ( http://trust-power.com/10oil/index.html )

TRUST F2 sport / race 15w-50

MOTUL 300v 15w-50 (power)

HKS turbo racing Pro 10w-50 ( http://www.hks-power.co.jp/products/oil/pro/index.html )

Change oils and i bet it stops.

thanks for that

Mobil 1 do a 5-50 and a15-50 should I try one of them or go straight back to Motul, do you not rate Mobil 1 at all ?

and if I go to Motul or mobil 15-50 can I just run that all the time, or for street applications you'd want the protection more down at low temps?

You have done a few track days and a rally sprint and you have only now checked the oil?? :D

Your oil is too thin for a start, stick to a 15w.

yeah I probably should have kept that quiet :(

I know Trent didn't list it but, was thinking of changing to Mobil 1 15w-50 anyone have any reason why that wouldn't be a good idea ?

Maybe using Penrite Sin 5 oil is a better choice for the car. Its a 5w-60w which would cater for both street & track use. I use this oil & never have had any problems with it , but i don't do much track work though. Also maybe should make a habit of checking your oil level every time before you drive the car . Peace of mind , also better safe then sorry !!

Maybe using Penrite Sin 5 oil is a better choice for the car. Its a 5w-60w which would cater for both street & track use. I use this oil & never have had any problems with it , but i don't do much track work though. Also maybe should make a habit of checking your oil level every time before you drive the car . Peace of mind , also better safe then sorry !!

ive found the sin gear to be pretty poor, wont use it (in my shop) after seeing the condition of it (and oil pressure drop) after one track day in a customers rb25....he now uses another oil without any similar issues.

I 100% agree with trent here. you are using the wrong grade of oil. power = heat. 800hp is a lot of power. a 0/40 is not up to the task. a 15w50 much better. personally i don't rate the mobil ones very highly and would chose a motul but if you are happy with mobil then use it but at least use the right grade for the right purpose. :)

0w/5w/10w - doesn't really matter in this situation.

+1, that W number is the cold number, you should focus on the -40 or -50 bit. Also Mobil 0W-40 hasn't got a great HTHS, IMO you'd be better running Delvac 1 5W-40 if you really want to stick to a -40. Since the people that really know stuff say you need a 50, start with Mobil 1 5W-50.

Changing before and after track days is likely to be a waste of money unless your Used Oil Analysis says your oil is stuffed, and in that case you should run a better oil, eg go from Mobil 5w-50 (group 4 and 5) to a full ester like Motul 300V (group 5 aka full ester only).

Maybe using Penrite Sin 5 oil is a better choice for the car. Its a 5w-60w which would cater for both street & track use. I use this oil & never have had any problems with it , but i don't do much track work though. Also maybe should make a habit of checking your oil level every time before you drive the car . Peace of mind , also better safe then sorry !!

That's way too thick for an everyday driver if you ask me i wouldn't bother going over 40

ok thanks guys, that it I'm changing back motul v300, as someone said above, surely just changing after track days would be sufficient, as I do a track day or event on average once a month and only travel about 1000km on the road between track visits, I don't imagine the oil would get too over worked on the street you simply can't keep your foot into it long enough for it to get much of a workout. and it does hold nearly 7-8L

does that sound like an acceptable plain?

ok thanks guys, that it I'm changing back motul v300, as someone said above, surely just changing after track days would be sufficient, as I do a track day or event on average once a month and only travel about 1000km on the road between track visits, I don't imagine the oil would get too over worked on the street you simply can't keep your foot into it long enough for it to get much of a workout. and it does hold nearly 7-8L

does that sound like an acceptable plain?

You may still be wasting money changing at 1000 road ks + track day. Used oil analysis will cost a lost less than a fill of 300V, and it will also gives you information on your engines health as well as the amount of deterioration of the oil.

FWIW a Porsche 928S4 owner who had oil tested after 20,000km street kms with a track day or two found the Mobil full synthetic oil was recommended for continued use, that is, still in excellent condition. Factory drain interval is 10,000kms, IIRC the sumps are 7 or 8 liters.

It would be interesting to see what 300V in your car is like at your 1000+trackday interval. If its not overheating, it might still be in great condition!

You may still be wasting money changing at 1000 road ks + track day. Used oil analysis will cost a lost less than a fill of 300V, and it will also gives you information on your engines health as well as the amount of deterioration of the oil.

FWIW a Porsche 928S4 owner who had oil tested after 20,000km street kms with a track day or two found the Mobil full synthetic oil was recommended for continued use, that is, still in excellent condition. Factory drain interval is 10,000kms, IIRC the sumps are 7 or 8 liters.

It would be interesting to see what 300V in your car is like at your 1000+trackday interval. If its not overheating, it might still be in great condition!

I hear you Mr Stabby the 300V isn't cheap at 7L a pop, I've got an oil analysis place locally that I'm just starting to use so I'll get tested and see what sort of life I get out of it.

My only concern is :

I know the Motul V300 is a top notch oil but at 15w is that offering enough protection on start up,, this engine with all that oil, cooler, remote filter etc takes an awful long time to get up to temp ?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...