Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I had my doubts that a TD06 would have been a lil big. Thats why i wanted a 2nd opinion, so u think the below option would be better. It will be on a T3 flange manifold not a T25

http://www.ebay.com....#ht_2730wt_1396

If you can do T2 flange then I recommend the following, it actually works as an internal gate turbo (the T3 ones suck):

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Kinugawa-Turbocharger-3-Cover-TD05H-18G-T25-Flange-8cm-/280816756811?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4161fba84b

Or if you are stuck running T3, get an external gate and hang a gate off the housing:

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Kinugawa-Turbocharger-3-Anti-Surge-TD05H-18G-w-T3-8cm-V-Band-External-Gate-Hsg-/270902563574?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3f130d12f6

Mate STATUS has posted a few results of people running the T67 on 98...

STATUS has posted results of people on 98 doing about 330kw, should be good for the same on others Id say.

If that the car I think you are talking about it has a T67 10cm (TRUST) and I'm pretty sure it has mild cams also ;)

Someone correct me if I'm wrong.

Edited by Wheezy

As others have said STATUS has posted various results between 300-330rwkw on BP98

If that the car I think you are talking about it has a T67 10cm (TRUST) and I'm pretty sure it has mild cams also ;)

Someone correct me if I'm wrong.

STATUS is yet to disagree lol

He does a lot of Kando's.

So are there any more results of the T67 in pump fuel other than SimonR32?

Putting aside numbers for a second. Here is a 210rwkws Hypergear R33 GTS25t on good street/track tyres.(camera car). In fronf of him is an R33 GTS25t with a Trust T67-25G setup on RE55s. And in front of him me with my TD06-20G, I think i still had the std inlet plenum on at this stage.

So you have 210rwkws/street tyres chasing 310rwkws/semis chasing 260rwkws/semis. John in the camera car is a bit mad and with slightly quicker cars in front of him does a brilliant job of hunting us down, and murders us both under brakes...but you see the acceleration isnt worlds apart...and funniest thing of all...you dont see the T67-25G R33 get near my bumper let along overtake... :whistling:

I think this vid puts the numbers people sometimes chase into perspective. Would have been real interesting if the camera car had RE55s and had the same corner speed. But an extra 100rwkws means we do get away but we are hardly leaving him for dead.

yes that was a lovely rant Roy and you're right power is just a number, as you can only take a skyline around a corner so fast before the laws of physics take over and say no more...

While you point out that the car with more power isnt any better off, it definatly isnt any worse off either..

Now everybody head down the quarter,drifting,burnouts,dyno day,gymkhana and lets see who is the overall winner..cause there is more than one form of motorsport remember ;)

yes that was a lovely rant Roy and you're right power is just a number, as you can only take a skyline around a corner so fast before the laws of physics take over and say no more...

While you point out that the car with more power isnt any better off, it definatly isnt any worse off either..

Now everybody head down the quarter,drifting,burnouts,dyno day,gymkhana and lets see who is the overall winner..cause there is more than one form of motorsport remember ;)

I only know one 'fast' :whistling:

Roy: rubber ones

So you have 210rwkws/street tyres chasing 310rwkws/semis chasing 260rwkws/semis. John in the camera car is a bit mad and with slightly quicker cars in front of him does a brilliant job of hunting us down, and murders us both under brakes...but you see the acceleration isnt worlds apart...and funniest thing of all...you dont see the T67-25G R33 get near my bumper let along overtake... :whistling:

Remember the old R33 is probably carrying 100+kgs on your R32 so the 50rwkw difference would be less significant :)

Remember the old R33 is probably carrying 100+kgs on your R32 so the 50rwkw difference would be less significant :)

Yeh, not a 1000% conclusive anything video. I just thought it was interesting how such a wide range of engine outputs didn't really yield anything "fark me dead" different in way of how it got from one end of the straight to the other. I mean accelerating from 60km/h to 180km/h would be a pretty good test for acceleration. (My R32 is 1335kgs with no 5-10L of fuel and no driver :( )

And the only reason why I thought an R32 GTR rim would be a go for a run at Calder was I can get my hands on a pair and figure a 16x8 +30 is going to be better then my usual rims for fitting a drag style radial with a bigger sidewall...but fark it. Its all a wank, when I run again at the drags I will just run my old track tyres/ rims 17x9.5 so I am not scared of burning money with the burnout :pirate:

Yeh, not a 1000% conclusive anything video. I just thought it was interesting how such a wide range of engine outputs didn't really yield anything "fark me dead" different in way of how it got from one end of the straight to the other. I mean accelerating from 60km/h to 180km/h would be a pretty good test for acceleration. (My R32 is 1335kgs with no 5-10L of fuel and no driver :( )

And the only reason why I thought an R32 GTR rim would be a go for a run at Calder was I can get my hands on a pair and figure a 16x8 +30 is going to be better then my usual rims for fitting a drag style radial with a bigger sidewall...but fark it. Its all a wank, when I run again at the drags I will just run my old track tyres/ rims 17x9.5 so I am not scared of burning money with the burnout :pirate:

Your better off with a narrower rim for a drag radial, that way your tyre outlay is a little less and you get some more bulge on the tyre which will flex and give grip on launch. I dont need to tell you but the wider the rim the wider the tyre and up goes the price.

Personally the rims I have set asside for my drag adventures are a pair of Evo 4 Enkeis off my old E4 which are 16x6.5

Also, add 500ml displacement to your setup Roy and I think that video will look very different (not that I have seen it while at work)

yeah good old taxi wheels are probably easiest, 15 tyres be cheaper too..but there is plenty of lines running into the 10s on stock rims with 235/60s MTs (or were they 255s :unsure):.. I Got plenty of stockies here if u need em Roy...I dont think its all wank, wanking is what I did alot of before I had a car :laugh:

but f**k Roy in the same thread you are posting about wanting to dynotune 15 different turbos to log the slight differences in each u post a video/rant like this..so either you just wanted to brag that you were were winning or you are finding all that dynotuning hard to justify now? Either way, i dont blame you...lol

i havent watched the vid either yet,im sure it will be good.. .while they all might be as quick as each other on a track, its much more fun to just drop the clutch with twice as much power..but yes you can be just as competitive for alot less coin..

I often wish I had built my car more like John has and just got out there, but then again if all I wanted was a budget racer I could buy an MX5 and have just as much fun... But f**k that I have an engine capable of 500hp so why not have it...im not trying to win anything, i just do it for my own enjoyment..which ,now that i think about it, is alot like wanking :blink:

... But f**k that I have an engine capable of 500hp so why not have it...im not trying to win anything, i just do it for my own enjoyment..which ,now that i think about it, is alot like wanking :blink:

This guy is funny man.. :teehee:

Putting aside numbers for a second. Here is a 210rwkws Hypergear R33 GTS25t on good street/track tyres.(camera car). In fronf of him is an R33 GTS25t with a Trust T67-25G setup on RE55s. And in front of him me with my TD06-20G, I think i still had the std inlet plenum on at this stage.

So you have 210rwkws/street tyres chasing 310rwkws/semis chasing 260rwkws/semis. John in the camera car is a bit mad and with slightly quicker cars in front of him does a brilliant job of hunting us down, and murders us both under brakes...but you see the acceleration isnt worlds apart...and funniest thing of all...you dont see the T67-25G R33 get near my bumper let along overtake... :whistling:

I think this vid puts the numbers people sometimes chase into perspective. Would have been real interesting if the camera car had RE55s and had the same corner speed. But an extra 100rwkws means we do get away but we are hardly leaving him for dead.

Funny that the white R33 is the T67 10cm I mentioned earlier.... ;)

As said before, 98bp, T67 10cm, not 100% about cams.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...