Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Its no excuse but you have to remember you are paying 1/4cof the price of what Trust want. IF we are lucky thats mostly down to support/service and maybe the occassional quality probpm me your number. If my oil line will fit yours then you can have mine as i never plan on using them

I rekon keep going with Mr Eiji

Make sure he is aware of the 170 page thread on SAU which clearly notes he is not giving warranty where his product has failed.

As much as I like Kando, this does tarnish my opinion somewhat... I feel its only fair you get a replacement. You should offer to mail him the CHRA in exchange for another (mail to TW is at your expense).

Thats probably the fairest option, coz then you dont get to keep 2 turbos with one that will potentially not fail.

lol...u got no hope..its a well used item, whos to say it hasnt seen excessive temps or something..

cmon guys we all know the car game, stuff always breaks, you get what you pay for, its worth 1/3 what you pay for it the minute its used, never expect a miracle and warranties arent worth the paper they are written on...

besides, It may have lasted ages like that had you not pulled it off and noticed the damage..

its 400$ for a new core, or what is it 100$ maybe to replace the wheel...suck it up and move on...

lol...u got no hope..its a well used item, whos to say it hasnt seen excessive temps or something..

cmon guys we all know the car game, stuff always breaks, you get what you pay for, its worth 1/3 what you pay for it the minute its used, never expect a miracle and warranties arent worth the paper they are written on...

besides, It may have lasted ages like that had you not pulled it off and noticed the damage..

its 400$ for a new core, or what is it 100$ maybe to replace the wheel...suck it up and move on...

I guess your hormonal moaning can make some level of sense at times ARTZ lol

I guess your hormonal moaning can make some level of sense at times ARTZ lol

that feeling is mutual my friend :laugh:

Have you tried asking for a compromise, e.g. you ship the turbo back and he repairs it free of charge? Does the seller offer any sort of warranty on the product?

I beleive he was offered a replacement wheel fitment but he has to pay for the wheel...it would of been nice to throw in the wheel..

if u do this, should try a billet comp wheel while its being done...either way its not like its an expensive fix..

Ask him to send a Billet fitted CHRA at a cut price to come to a mutual agreement. Like $150 or something for the new CHRA.

Thats GOT to cover the production cost and mailing lol.

On another note, a DIRECT COMPETITOR of Kando delayed shipping to me by 3 weeks on some trivial item and when I asked them what sort of feedback am I meant to give you now? They replied good feedback, your getting a full refund and keeping the item. Were really sorry messed up that bad. That was nice of them I thought!

battery, see if you can open a dispute case with PayPal and see if they can help you out.

I think he is well within his rights to deny a replacement so its not something I would start a paypal dispute over.

Make sure he is aware of the 170 page thread on SAU which clearly notes he is not giving warranty where his product has failed.

Yeh i did that, this is whats most concerning that he doesn't care and won't even reply to my emails anymore.

Have you tried asking for a compromise, e.g. you ship the turbo back and he repairs it free of charge? Does the seller offer any sort of warranty on the product?

That's pretty much what i was after but no luck

if u do this, should try a billet comp wheel while its being done...either way its not like its an expensive fix..

Yeh my plan was to just buy a turbine wheel and pay to have it fitted here, not interested in waiting 3 months for a turnaround sending it back to him.. May do the billet wheel sort of at a cross roads trying to decide if i should do springs, injectors, cams and a retune or just fix the turbine wheel and go...

Yeh my plan was to just buy a turbine wheel and pay to have it fitted here, not interested in waiting 3 months for a turnaround sending it back to him.. May do the billet wheel sort of at a cross roads trying to decide if i should do springs, injectors, cams and a retune or just fix the turbine wheel and go...

Its probably gonna be cheaper to just buy a new chra with the billet wheel for a couple of hundred. I think fitted and balanced of new Angeles would cost similar anyway

Worked out a deal with him, I send the CHRA back he fits a new turbine wheel, billet comp wheel, balances and posts back to me for the price of the billet wheel. Not completely satisfied but that's the best Im gonna get out of them..

That's not really too bad at all, you could have been a lot worse off!

Don't change anything else... I'm keen to see a direct comparison between the wheels to see if I order one haha

Edited by SimonR32

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So....to find any R chassis part number, get your VIN (will be something like ER33-xxxxxx for you) and go to: https://www.amayama.com/en/genuine-catalogs/nissan and enter it. From there you have access to a web version of Nissan's part system, FAST. It is a bit tricky to get used to, so maybe have a shot and post up what you think.  You can also search by general model but note in some cases your car might have different options so VIN is safest.  On diagram 211 I got 14075-75T16 for Connector, Water Hose If I search for part 14053‑21U10 that you posted, that is also a water hose but not the one bolted to the plenum and 14075‑04U00 is the fitting where the water hose goes into the block.
    • Yeah now we are talking I much prefer coolers in the front middle because it lessens the chance of a small bump to a corner stopping the whole event. I was thinking the AT cooler can move out of the radiator, delete the AT/engine coolant interwarmer and mount a separate cooler with a thermoswitch somewhere further back as is common in racing, that would be one thing. Beyond that, the engine oil cooler is an obvious one to move to the wheel arch, potentially one on each side, but unused space is an issue. I did have a earlier pic with the bumper off but it doesn't show how busy the corners are: DS is full of the auto driving sensors and PS is totally fully of windscreen washer fluid reservoir But ultimately I was hoping to keep the AC, and the water/air heat exchanger is fundamental so it is not just the radiator that needs to be in front BTW here's airflow to the rad as it ran at the track (one horn is gone now and I'll remove the lights next time):
    • your right the maps for Australia came out in 2017 but are 2010 maps. i got the updated maps SD card put it in and it was the same. Same maps in my Brothers Nissan Patrol. 2020 i think his car is
    • Yeahhhh, the costs have killed me. Spent more than the cost of an engine rebuild and it most mostly servicing and a tune lol.
×
×
  • Create New...