Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Worked out a deal with him, I send the CHRA back he fits a new turbine wheel, billet comp wheel, balances and posts back to me for the price of the billet wheel. Not completely satisfied but that's the best Im gonna get out of them..

that is actually a very good outcome! look forward to back to back results with the billet wheel :thumbsup:

Ok so the Troublesome internal gate td06 is now sorted. With a very consistant 14psi low boost made 260kw. And hi boost made an easy 280kw without finding the limits yet. Have a slight issue with the ecu dropping timing at exactly 5000rpm every power pull. Have to study the log file and see why. Rpm and all other signals are fine but it pulls timing for a split 2nd and causes a missfire

But it's not an internal gate turbo anymore :blink:

Clutch is in fellas, feels gooooooood....can be a bit edgey on take off, (trying to drive it with my chunky workboots on was tricky) but after that all is good....very light pedal but when it bites it bites hard... now planting the foot in 2nd is alot more exciting than it was.....

I got a rolling video here for shitsngiggles, soon as i figure out how to get it off my phone :angry:

Anyone else noticed there's funky new emoticons...

being an 18G i would say so, its probably calculated engine power.

still cool tho. if trust can use T3 to T2 adapters id say it works fine. Which would give me confidence to do exactly that and put a 2871 on a RB25. Budget GTRS.

ARTZ what clutch did u get man? i re read 10 pages and couldnt find it. You must have said it in the HG thread...

But it's not an internal gate turbo anymore :blink:

Correct. And he is very annoyed at his wife for making him get the internal gate turbo.

He worked out he spent around 22hours trying to fix the internal gate to perform how it should. Then i gave him a 38mm ebay gate that he welded to the housing. Worked perfectly.

cd9c6028.jpg

Correct. And he is very annoyed at his wife for making him get the internal gate turbo.

He worked out he spent around 22hours trying to fix the internal gate to perform how it should. Then i gave him a 38mm ebay gate that he welded to the housing. Worked perfectly.

cd9c6028.jpg

We all told him

ROFL your secret is as safe with me as mine is with you :ph34r:

Wish I could get my car back to you soon man. Things will be a little tight for a few months, the S13 was our last luxury for a while.

Correct. And he is very annoyed at his wife for making him get the internal gate turbo.

He worked out he spent around 22hours trying to fix the internal gate to perform how it should. Then i gave him a 38mm ebay gate that he welded to the housing. Worked perfectly.

cd9c6028.jpg

Can you do a run with road speed instead of rpm? Are you sure that rpm scale is correct?

Can you do a run with road speed instead of rpm? Are you sure that rpm scale is correct?

Rpm is a roller speed ratio that i have to input rpm It matches the log from the Nistune. When i get back to the shop i will take a pic with roadspeed

Why do u ask?

@ STATUS

Just a quick question. The SR's you have tuned running a kinugawa tdo6sl2-20g are they an 8 or 10cm rear and internal or external gate? I bought the T3 external V band with 8cm rear version and my mate Pete Leibig is tuning it. Just wondering if I should change to the 10cm as I want to reach near on 300rwkw on 98oct and over that on E85.

Thanks

@ STATUS

Just a quick question. The SR's you have tuned running a kinugawa tdo6sl2-20g are they an 8 or 10cm rear and internal or external gate? I bought the T3 external V band with 8cm rear version and my mate Pete Leibig is tuning it. Just wondering if I should change to the 10cm as I want to reach near on 300rwkw on 98oct and over that on E85.

Thanks

i know peter very well, legend. If he wants to talk about it when he has car on dyno let him know he can call me anytime 24/7.

8cm will do it, 10cm will do it easier and lower boost (about 18)i prefer the 8cm.

The internal ones are plain JUNK.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I'm actually not sure - I think it was "Stealth Performance" (It really is near impossible to find a FEMALE 1/8BSPT to 1/8NPT male at ALL) but having the thing leveraged on a 90 degree angle on a small aluminium fitting is not too smart. Also in not too smart, I've drilled out the center of the broken fitting so there's maybe 0.00001mm of thread to bite into, so yeah. I may have to get it drilled/tapped/plugged entirely. Given I could conceivably tap a thread/adapter/pressure line in any point in the oil system I suppose it's feasible to run a line to the Nissan Sensor to keep the dash working. Do these exist in AN fittings and the like? Like an AN fitting that has a NPT (or other?) thread as well for putting a sensor in?
    • I would agree.  There will be an amount of boost you could run safely with an otherwise factory system, but it would be low enough to not be worth the cost.  And if you are reliving your 20s, you know a 'little bit' was never enough. Personally, if I didn't want to spend the money, then stick with NA bolt-ons, and maybe a tune.
    • Fuark, at least the motor survived. What brand was the fitting that snapped?
    • Wrong question. There's no point in spending the rather large sum of cash and effort to add turbo, without taking it to the "sensible" limit of the motor itself. If you have to upgrade injectors, etc, then so be it. That is a tiny fraction of what it will cost you to turbo it.
    • Measure voltage at the starter solenoid terminal when the key is at start and it has clicked. If it is really low, then the suspicion falls on the ignition switch (contacts or wiring thereof) as causing a voltage drop instead of sending enough volts to throw the solenoid all the way to engage the starter itself. If it is a decent voltage, then the suspicion is on the solenoid. Might have s horted coil, or might hva dirty contacts. Rip the starter off, dismantle, clean up contacts and inspect winding. It might not be possible to see if there is a short in the winding though. I have a spare starter here that I could measure the resistance of the coil, as a guide to about what it should be, if you need a comparison. <parts hoarder>No you cannot have it.</parts hoarder>
×
×
  • Create New...