Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys, sil owner here!

i've read through most of this MASSIVE thread and loved it, I just have a question for some of the gurus.

If i don't sell my car, (sr20 s15 2871r etc etc), i plan on getting a td06sl2-20g. if i stay low mount then i don't have to worry about re-doing my pipework as it's similar to changing a 2871r to a 3071r t2 low mount where you can utilise the same pipework.

NOW, is it worth getting the low mount version of this turbo in the t2 footprint, because I imagine it's very similar to a 3071r t2 where it's quite restricted opposed to it's full 60 trim t3 brother.

Im looking for around 270kw and in my town of north qld our numbers seem to fall a little shorter than everyone online so i definitely want to make it. i have an external gate on my low mount manifold already with combination springs to hold 20psi so the gate problem isn't an issue, im more just worried about whether it's even worth getting that turbo in the t2 model and hitting my target. i am considering the 10cm housing as well as i have driven an sr with a .86 rear 30 series turbo and i honestly don't find it as awful as everyone makes it out to be and it might help to hit my target power area

i use the 3071r comparison because i haven't really looked much into the mitsubishi turbos before, and from what i read specification wise that's the closes comparison i can get to a garrett ie: 2871 similar to td05 3071 similar to td06-20g, 3076 similar to td06-25g

sorry if this seems all scrambled im hella tired!

peace sau XD

Edited by Mr. Pav

hey guys, sil owner here!

i've read through most of this MASSIVE thread and loved it, I just have a question for some of the gurus.

If i don't sell my car, (sr20 s15 2871r etc etc), i plan on getting a td06sl2-20g. if i stay low mount then i don't have to worry about re-doing my pipework as it's similar to changing a 2871r to a 3071r t2 low mount where you can utilise the same pipework.

NOW, is it worth getting the low mount version of this turbo in the t2 footprint, because I imagine it's very similar to a 3071r t2 where it's quite restricted opposed to it's full 60 trim t3 brother.

Im looking for around 270kw and in my town of north qld our numbers seem to fall a little shorter than everyone online so i definitely want to make it. i have an external gate on my low mount manifold already with combination springs to hold 20psi so the gate problem isn't an issue, im more just worried about whether it's even worth getting that turbo in the t2 model and hitting my target. i am considering the 10cm housing as well as i have driven an sr with a .86 rear 30 series turbo and i honestly don't find it as awful as everyone makes it out to be and it might help to hit my target power area

i use the 3071r comparison because i haven't really looked much into the mitsubishi turbos before, and from what i read specification wise that's the closes comparison i can get to a garrett ie: 2871 similar to td05 3071 similar to td06-20g, 3076 similar to td06-25g

sorry if this seems all scrambled im hella tired!

peace sau XD

Your abeautifulmind on NS arent you?

If so have you checked my comments there? I covered this info.

T2 will work just like T3 if they are both EX GATE and provided the manifold setup is the same.

was there ever any confirmation on whether the antisurge housings were the main cause of dori's power loss.

i found out they do a td06sl2-25g in a t2 form now in low mount but they only do it with the surge cover (unless i get a 4" one)

they can come in two different types of surge covers as well which is weird, one is like a machiend ring around the comp and one is just the ryobi drilled holes. considering i will have to get it in one of these two options.. i wonder which is the more effective... if any type of anti surge cover

well with the anti surge cover on it wouldn't make anymore power than i think 245 or 250 or something.

Jez tried multiple things to try and get it normal again but it wouldn't pull anymore power.

i'd probably say stick with the normal housings

There should be some of power loses having anti surge cover. also depending on how they were made, some Garrett 3076 and HKS 3037 comes with anti surge housings and they don't lose much of power.

I think majority of them do, i didnt suffer any power loss with the 3037 that i know of........ I still find it confusing why the Kando had issues with it, you said it fixed the surge though yeah Dori?

Well I wont be getting the oil line that was left out of my order (which seems to be a common occurrence after doing some research). Not a single reply from "Eiji" after weeks of emails and waiting.

Finally I lodged a PayPal dispute and kando_dynamics responded within minutes to PayPal as it was awarded in my favour, however kando_dynamics requested I sent everything back to them before I get the refund (at my expense). They obviously know that its not worth my while given the low cost of the kit! Stitched right up.

Luckily I'm only out of pocket a small amount as I just need to source another oil line, but it is pretty dodgy behaviour.

Ya i had issues- sent him coupla emails last week as I wanted to buy a TD06 but didnt hear from him at all so not buying the bloody thing haha. Going Garrett now, pay more for something thats well proven, but I still need to buy lines n gaskets from this Kandomaniac so bit worried there haha..

as an FYI to kando customers:

I bought another kando product this week and was concerned with postage as 'My Ebay' was not showing the item as shipped.

I emailed to receive an update and received a response same day which included a tracking number, which was also very courteous.

Service is still on par for me, products still great value.

Well that's good news. I've got one on order, got some feedback within 24hrs to indicate they were waiting on delivery of some rotating assembly components. Expected to build the unit and ship within 6 calendar days of the order being placed, which is still acceptable to me. Prompt communication is the key to good service.

Interested to handle, fit, and try the product after the positive comments by Trent on these things.

I sent an email at least 2 weeks ago via ebay regarding several products. No reply, not even a hint of recognition. Unfortunately, (imo) poor customer service looses the sale. I've had to go another avenue as I needed a turbo asap and even though I paid more, I got the service I was hoping to recieve.

Guess it's worked well for others though

Edited by Reflector

Greddy USA are having a pretty awesome sale for those interested, $750 for td05 18g td06 20g 8cm $900 something for use to look at anyways shipping is about $220 but still super cheap

Yo, Taylor, I'm real happy for you, Ima let you finish... But Kando have one of the best sales of all time. OF ALL TIME.

kanye-west.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Here's the chart for fuel pressure vs. current draw, assuming your base fuel pressure is 3 bar and you run like 0.5bar boost on WOT, you should only momentarily hit 9amps here and there. (Ignore my prev post, I cannot read a chart these days it seems)
    • Those comp test results are not hideous. Whether they are accurate or not (ie, when that comp tester says 140 psi, is the real pressure120, 140 or 160?) is unknown to us. The state of the battery used to crank it over is unknown, etc etc. Many people around here would say that the absolute values and the spread are perfectly fine to just add boost and keep going. I personally would be happier with a narrower spread than that, but even the diff between 125 and 145 is not terrible. That one cylinder at 125 though, has probably copped some damage relative to the others. You should inspect the valves seeing as you've got it open. Do you know how to measure installed ring gaps? That, and an inspection of the rings themselves, is how you will determine whether they need to be replaced. If you're not good to do these things, take the block and the pistons and rings to a shop that is, and ask them for the go/no-go on them. Do the bores need a hone at all? If so, you might well be justified in getting some different pistons in order to get away from the ring supply problem. Whether you're happy to spend a lot more money right now, on more gear, rather than less money, but an amount that looks stupid given that you will only get a handful of rings in exchange for that money, is for you to decide.
    • also possibly backed up to my filler and shat down it! 🤣
    • Ok so i would love some advice here please, i purchased an R33 a few months back and its had a few mods done to the engine, its an RB25det running a Master ECU, 1200cc injectors, bigger turbo, oil cooler, oil filter relocation kit, Spool H-beam rods, acl/ross pistons. When i removed the motor from the vehicle (as its getting a respray) i thought i would compression test it and these are the following results. Cylinder 1-145psi, Cylinder 2-143psi, Cylinder 3-125psi, Cylinder 4-145psi, Cylinder 5-140psi, Cylinder 6-135psi this test was done with the motor on the ground and powering up the starter motor. I dropped the sump and found broken oil squirters on cylinder 3,5 and 6. I was told my rings are probably worn so i stripped the motor completely to get a new set of rings for it. The trouble is no one has these rings anywhere and they have to be custom made by Ross over in the states and will cost about $600+$200 delivery. My question is how can i tell if my rings are at fault and if they are still ok and is this price ok for a set of rings?
    • What sold me on Trailer Park Boys is this scene: Great stuff, just stay clear from the new Netflix production.
×
×
  • Create New...