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Yes, those are the correct housings.

I would LOVE to see back to back results :) Please be the one to dyno before and after! For your own benefit also.

Will do, I already have the before dyno sheet up in the rb25 dyno thread, I'll do the after one as soon as I get in the dyno again, kinugawa has only just shipped my comp housing but i haven't orded the exh housing yet because I'm not sure if the larger exhaust housing is going to mean I need a new Vband exhaust setup, maybe it will need to be re made bigger ? Which I canT afford just yet.

Here's a wee GoPro clip from this weekend, mate's S14 running the TD05-16G (anti-surge housing version) doing a street sprint around an industrial area, ultimately a low speed "circuit" so this clip isn't really one to show outright power so much as show how usable the power that these things can bring to the party is. The car is using G4 Link boost control setup up to run wastegate boost in 1st and 2nd gear, and ~16/17psi in 3rd - in an effort to keep the car from trying to make it look like a D1 event :) Even with this setup the car was quite excitable in 2nd gear, the owner ended up finding it quicker to keep it in 3rd gear for most of the track - which is where I am coming from showing this clip. For such a cheap turbo capable of hitting high 200rwkw fairly happily I reckon the transitional response and also low down pull (there are corners here where it is usefully accelerating from around and even under 3000rpm) are very decent.

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Will do, I already have the before dyno sheet up in the rb25 dyno thread, I'll do the after one as soon as I get in the dyno again, kinugawa has only just shipped my comp housing but i haven't orded the exh housing yet because I'm not sure if the larger exhaust housing is going to mean I need a new Vband exhaust setup, maybe it will need to be re made bigger ? Which I canT afford just yet.

The housing will go on just fine. As long as they are both V band.

It would be awesome if you put on the front housing first and just did a power run to document the difference.

if anyone is interested, i have a TD06-20G 3" anti-surge housing lying around with less than 200km usage on it.

same as this http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Kinugawa-Turbo-Compressor-Housing-Mitsubishi-3-TD06-25G-with-Anti-Surge-Inlet-/111129184823?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item19dfd0ca37&_uhb=1

will sell for $100 postage anywhere in Aus.

Here are the specs,page 271 of this thread you can find the dyno graph

R34 GT-T 4 Door

Internally stockarrow-10x10.png Neo motor

Splitfire coil packs

HDi cooler w/custom piping

3" exhaust w/100cell metal cat

Tomei type A poncams

MSLR head gasket

Arp head studs

PnT Performance intake manifold w/r33 s2 throttle body

650cc Siemens Deka Injectors

Aeroflow high flow fuel rail

Turbosmart FPR800

Walbro 255lph fuel pumparrow-10x10.png

Hybrid Performance top mount exhaust manifold

Turbosmart Compgate 40

Kando TD06H 60-1 w/anti surge front housing and 10cm rear

Gizzmo IBC

Nistune

After matsuri ill go about ordering one of those normal housings and then get a dyno run done again.

My bad! I totally forgot that.

That's a very interesting combo. Being a H wheel I wonder what an 8cm housing would be like... It would cut the rev limit down but I feel it may potentially make it a torque monster. Maybe then the anti-surge housing would pay off lol

I run a bov any ways,only reason i got the antisurge was that kando had a sale on ebay,$711 shipped to my door.for $160ish its worth a shot as im now using the car for drift and starting to learn in a car that only comes on boost at 4000 is a bit of a challange,my tuner (cece @ jaustech) says that if i go to a 6boost or similar it would improve my power curve and also spool quicker aswell,not surd if 4000 is slow or quick for my setup lol

Lol 4k is a good figure for anything at that sort of power level, its the motor naturally coming alive without being hampered by a laggy turbo. BUT what happens before its 'all in' is also important.

I find that a setup which is all in at a point like 4k on a modern DOHC is quite good if it has a reasonable amount of sting below 4k. If below 4k is a bit of a dog and it all happens at 4k you might want to work on it..

For my own car (SS1PU SR20) it definitely all happens at 4, that's where the party is at, but it gets to 4 really happily and freely. Getting it onto power feels like it didn't happen, by the time your expecting power the car will be demanding all your attention as you hit warp 9.

I hope that helps.

Yeah that does help,its not a slow journey to 4k,quite quick in fact,this is my first car making this sort of power and ive modified it from stock but from my previous mods to the ones stated ive jumped 100rwkw lol i didnt think 4k was that bad as std is arlund 3200ish? So 800pm later and 150rwkw more then stock isnt too bad,still keen to test the whole antisurge vs normal housing theory out.when i was coosing turbos i favoured the 10cm over the 8 as the 8 seemed better for smaller engines(e.g 2ltrs) and the deciding figure was the cfm of it as it out flows a 3076r at the same boost levels from what ive read.will post results when ive got my stuff sorted ;-)

All the more reason to try a few things Stormy!!

By all accounts funki_munki should have the laggier turbo, so there is something lacking on your setup.

yeah well im gonna give the non anti-surge housing a go first and do a dyno run, then ill throw the 10cm rear housing on and see what it does. My tuner ( andy @ hyperdrive ) said that my high mount manifold has a really crap design, which is fair enough as its just a china spec ebay thing, i would get a 6-boost but i really cant afford that right now.

Eventually ide like to get the 6 boost and a non-china wastegate to match, and also some cams. I want to hit 400+ on bp98 before i move to E85, i cant do E85 right now as im only running 550cc inj.

haha funny thing is I lost a shit load of response and torque goin from my hybrid manifold and tial 44mm gate, to a brae performance manifold (ie long runners ,merg collector like a 6boost) and hypergear 50mm waste gate. I did make a lot a lot more top end though even on 3-4 psi less. Also required less fuel. think around 10% a lot more efficient

So don't slag the hybrid lol.

Harris can you elaborate on your setup? Presuming a Kinugawa turbo of some description.

Did either one present with boost control issues?

Would you care to post any dyno overlays of the Hybrid vs Brae if available?

Don't really want to deviate off topic but it might be worthwhile giving your feedback/experiences to Brae

Im using a hypergear 22.5g (I think thast what it called). Its an l2 turbine wheel and 10cm rear. The comp wheel is Staos billet 11 blade ss2 wheel , .7 front non antisurge housing. Flows about the same as a t67 with slightly better response.

with the hybrid manifold and tial 44mm , the spring combo used boost creped to around 23-24 psi and tapered of slowly to wards redline. Also had a larger gate pipe welded to the manifold

With the brae manifold and 50mm gate, its seems to build boost fair bit slower, but was more efficient up top. mad more power than previous manifold and gate on 20 psi. peak power is closer to redline, aslo used 10% less fuel

I got rid of the hybrid because it kept on warping the head flange and leaked. A piece of the weld from the collector also broke off and damaged the turbine wheel. So bit the bullet and bought the brae( Staos old setup of his test car).

Bit trickier to drive with the lag, but pulls a lot harder. Cant wait to slide on the track

Got one run in at calder park managed an 11.7 at 121mph, pretty happy considering its setup for drift , abit more practise think i could run a high 10 second pass

I have the dyno plot comparing the two but not too sure how to upload it

unap.jpg

d59w.jpg

pink is current(brae with 50mm),

Edited by dori33

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