Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

sorry dale I don't like to post dyno graphs, as my tuner ramps the car up different to avoid horrible wheel spin and the graph seems laggy if that makes any sense 2 you? so dnt want to start a shit fight.

but on the road it comes on a lot sooner then what the graph shows.

and old tune was actually 442 at 22psi. now 485 at 22 lost around 30hp in mid at 4500rpm but obviousily gained 40hp up top. pickup car this morning so see how it drives soon.

peak power went from 6600rpm to 7200rpm

What cams are you using?

camtech 272 9mm lift, purchased package thru lewis engines in SA

Make sure your cams have been dialed to the lobe centre Camtech recommend.

I recently had an issue with their product where they admitted to me that they grind as close to the stock base circle as possible, and that it is the customers responsibility to dial the cam. Camtech cams are NOT drop in.

well speaking of that, Iam getting a weird noise from my left tappet cover :( but in saying that, I got the camtech 272 custom made with vct still which allowed me to use the stock inlet cam gear, on another note the exhaust site has an adjustable cam gear. which wasn't dialled in.

Edited by methz

I don't really have access to Hypergear's services, it would mean taking my car off the road for several weeks and shipping it to them and back. I had heard that enlargening the internal gate was common these turbos, how hard is it to actually do? There are several machine shops around here that could probably do it.

well speaking of that, Iam getting a weird noise from my left tappet cover :( but in saying that, I got the camtech 272 custom made with vct still which allowed me to use the stock inlet cam gear, on another note the exhaust site has an adjustable cam gear. which wasn't dialled in.

The stock intake gear is adjustable.

I recommend you contact Camtech and ask them where peak lift should lie for each cam. You can then get a degree wheel and dial them in.

oh ok thanks for that, might have to book in with my tuner get him 2 sus it all out after powerplay. but for now, car is on full song at 4500 and pulls pretty good specially up top. and idles nearly factory.

  • Like 1

There are bolts on the back of the gear, its adjustable just like an actual adjustable camgear is.

Yep, except you have to take it off to get to the bolts. Its like nissan just want to annoy us!

LOL am not 100% sure about this but I THINK you can remove the rear dust cover which will give you access while your working. Then mark the belt and the gears after its all timed right and reassemble.

I have not tried this personally, am just going off my knowledge of what the motor looks like as you pull it apart.

Haha yeah but you do that before you adjust it, then use the dial gauge to adjust it and f**k around, then put it all back together.

A bit of a procedure but it will save you taking the pulley off every time to adjust :)

Just use a paint pen to mark the belt and gears before you take them off, should be fine!

I hope they strapped it down properly, apparently HPF don't bother strapping cars down at dyno days as I found out yesterday. :/

I wonder if that's the reason some people never get the figures the are chasing? Wheel spin can give some very weird results...

I never got around to putting it on dyno :( my third gear is pretty much stuffed lol, crunches going in and down shifting, its horrible, only got 1 run at test n tune due to drag car flipping in the deep end, done an impressive 2.6 60ft and 3rd took 4 times to go in crunching :( haha, 13.0 at 122, guess i didn't beat my 12.3 at 120 from couple yrs ago grr, if i got 3rd it woulda gone 125 easy :( all in all, drove 1000kms, flog it all weekend, 8000rpm all day long in 35 degree temp, and got me home :)

Bugger, sounds like a frustrating weekend :( 122mph with issues is certainly moving though! What changes has it had since it ran 120mph?

Glad it at least survived the trip. As an aside, there is a turbo builder in NZ (who isn't necessarily the most stand up in terms of honesty at times - makes it hard to know what to believe and what not to) who has been trying extinguish any interest in the Kando turbos presumably before they get too popular, saying they tend to fail before you get any good use out of them. I haven't seen any evidence of this anywhere yet, but figured on this large a community it should be a mature enough trend here to get a reputation one way or another. Has anyone actually had one fail, or even get a bit sad yet?

Drags this weekend coming, can't wait to see what the 16G setup does - I should add that the turbo is not "all in", boost is limited to what can be safely run with a 2.5 bar MAP sensor

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Well, the trouble with that ^^ is: The configuration shown is absolutely a 1-way, not a 1.5-way. There is no way that a 1.5-way can be said to offer LSD action only on acceleration. If Nismo cannot get that right, then it is impossible to believe their documentation. That ^ is not a 1.5 way setup. That is a 1-way.   And so now I have allowed all doubts to flourish and have gone back to look at the MotoIQ video. I originally made the mistake of believing him when he said "this is a 1.5-way" at the ~6:10 mark. Because what he did was take the gear assembly out of the 2-way opening and just rotate it one place to the left to drop it into the 1-way opening. When he dropped it in there, the cam was "backwards" compared to the correct orientation shown in all other photos of that config. The flat shold have been facing the 1° ramp side of the opening, not the 55° ramp side. And I thought, "gee that's cute", but I was concerned at the time, when he put the other ring back on, that the gap between the rings looked like it was wider then in the 2-way config. And then I said a lot of things in my long post on Tuesday that could only make sense if the guy from MotoIQ was correct about what he'd done. BUT... I have now done my homework. I grabbed a frame of the video with the 2-way config, and then grabbed another with the "1.5-way" config, snipped out the cam and opening of that frame and just pasted it direct on top of the 2-way config. I scaled it so that the triangular opening was almost exactly the same height in both. AND.... the gap between the plates is wider with the cam installed in the triangualr opening backwards. That is.... it cannot go together that way. There would be massive force on the plates all the time, if you could even reassemble it.  So, My statement on the matter? The Nismo diff is actually only a 2-way and 1-way. There is no 1.5-way option in it, regardless of what they say. Here's a photo of a real 1.5-way ramp opening from Cusco (along with the 1 way option). And the full set of 1 through 2 way options from their racing diff, which is not same-same as what we'd typically be using, but...the cams work the same. A little blurry, but it comes from this Cusco doc, which is quite helpful. AND.... Cusco do in fact do what I suggested would be sensible, which is to have rings that do 1 and 1.5, and 1.5 and 2. Separately.  
    • Welcome Adam. Car looks great!
    • "With a 1.5-WAY, the LSD is effective only during acceleration."
    • Well it wasn't as easy as I thought.... and it also wasn't in my original manual which I did end up finding. They discuss the process in the Nismo catalogue though and it requires slight machining. Page 145.  NISMO PARTS CATALOGUE 2020
    • I'm an idiot, my intercooler is rated for 1000hp. I had clicked on the wrong product. Knowing the delta P would be nice, but I'm doubtful I'll do it. Now as for an EMAP, that would be great and I'll get around to it eventually but from my findings in my last post, I'm considering a turbo swap now. 
×
×
  • Create New...