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It's lighter than stock, I think around 1200kg. I'd love to know what the turbo could do "all in" but it's not really an option with the current injectors and MAP sensor, and to be fair I'd say the head gasket/head studs would probably be worth upgrading before doing something like that too.

Still not too bad for a basic setup that has that wide a delivery, I reckon.

This is the dyno plot for ~16-17psi, if you hadn't seen it:

post-11136-13782780405431_thumb.jpg
post-11136-13782780219509_thumb.jpg

just got my TD05-18g last week...agreed, EXTREMELY quick delivery, was only 3 business days (ordered late Tues night, here first thing Mon morning). Missing the bullet nut I had ordered but they shipped that out quick too and got it today. Trying to fit over the weekend and found a couple of issues.

Longer studs I bought didn't fit as they were m10x1.25, and manifold end being m10x1.5. I did read that in one other post but most other ppl said m10x1.25....wasn't entirely unexpected anyway.

Oil drainpipe it came with is useless, 17mm not 19mm, and way too short to reach. Drilled new holes in flange of OEM drainpipe and used that.

Waterlines were biggest issue. I want to have water and oilcooled, not just oil, but the banjo bolts won't even come close to fitting in the top ports and allowing the hose to screw on. Unless they're pointed straight up in the air which is just ridiculous

post-78602-0-29942500-1392609426_thumb.jpgpost-78602-0-73368200-1392609453_thumb.jpg

have read that both of these ports on both sides are for water, and ok to use either the top or bottom, but the return should be the upper port, is that right?

Andy did you go with an internal gated housing? Interested to hear how this thing performs and if boost control is ok.

I don't rate the hoses and fittings that come with the Kando gear, very little that is useable and anywhere near fits.

I think porting the internal gate Kando turbos is well worth it, it's not that hard at the time and much less of a PITA of the potential situation of discovering you have boost creep, and need to pull the turbo off again.

with vct turned off its dog shit under 5k, with vct turned on its really good still, full noise around 4500rpm

3rd gear roll on from 40kmph up to 4000rpm I reach .4bar with vct off.

3rd gear roll on from 40kmph up to 4000rpm I reach 1bar with vct on.

cant I post link to youtube vid on here?

Edited by methz

yeah porting out the watersgate might be needed, will see. To me more of a concern was the chunk that sticks out into the exhaust flow, from where the wastegate port is drilled into the housing.

Bit of work with a carbide burr and the flow is much smoother. The entry was also a bit smaller than T3 size, so ported out to match the manifold rather than leave a lip at entry (looks more even in real-life lol, though looks a bit wavy in pic)post-78602-0-31201300-1392696221_thumb.jpg

post-78602-0-67488000-1392696260_thumb.jpg

  • 2 weeks later...

Got the opportunity for a power run for the 16G on 20psi, so took it and were pretty impressed with the result - 20psi was road tuned and is the limit of the injectors so not necessarily an indicator of full potential but still pretty sweet. 297kw @ hubs, 20psi hit by 3500rpm:

  • 2 weeks later...

Never using another kinugawa again had 3 t67s all ex gate 10cm rear on 3 different r33s fail within 2 months (suspect was didn't have 360 thrust bearings) after sending then back under warranty costing $164 each one they are warranting them even tho they are 2 months old and are wanted 350 per turbo to have them rebuilt. What a crock. This is why I should of suggested these turbos over hypergears you cannot compare compare the level of customer service and satisfaction you get from Tao not to mention the countless dollars out of pocket

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This is a huge worry for me, because my car is relatively low mileage (only 45k km when purchased) so although I plan to own the car for a long time, a mismatched odometer reading would be hugely detrimental to resale should the day come to sell the car. Thankfully this only occurred a mile or two from home so it wasn't extremely significant. Also, the OCD part of me would be extremely irked if the numbers that showed on my dash doesn't match the actual ageing of the car. Diagnosing I had been in communication with the well renown GTR shop in the USA, U.P.garage up near University Point in Washington state. After some back and forth they said it could be one of two things: 1) The speedometer sensor that goes into the transfer case is broken 2) The actual cluster has a component that went kaput. They said this is common in older Nissan gauge clusters and that would indicate a rebuild is necessary. As I tried to figure out if it was problem #1, I resolved problem #2 by sending my cluster over to Relentless Motorsports in Dallas, TX, whom is local to me and does cluster and ECU rebuilds. He is a one man operation who meticulously replaces every chip, resistor, capacitor, and electronic component on the PCB's on a wide variety of classic and modern cars. His specialty is Lexus and Toyota, but he came highly recommended by Erik of U.P.garage since he does the rebuilds for them on GTR clusters.  For those that don't know, on R32 and R33 GTR gearboxes, the speedometer sensor is mounted in the transfer case and is purely an analog mini "generator" (opposite of an alternator essentially). Based on the speed the sensor spins it generates an AC sine wave voltage up to 5V, and sends that via two wires up to the cluster which then interprets it via the speedometer dial. The signal does NOT go to the ECU first, the wiring goes to the cluster first then the ECU after (or so I'm told).  Problems/Roadblocks I first removed the part from the car on the underside of the transfer case (drain your transfer case fluid/ATF first, guess who found out that the hard way?), and noted the transfer case fluid was EXTREMELY black, most likely never changed on my car. When attempting to turn the gears it felt extremely gritty, as if shttps://imgur.com/6TQCG3xomething was binding the shaft from rotating properly. After having to reflow the solder on my AFM sensors based on another SAU guide here, I attempted to disassemble the silicone seal on the back of the sensor to see what happened inside the sensor; turns out, it basically disintegrated itself. Wonderful. Not only had the electrical components destroyed themselves, the magnetic portion on what I thought was on the shaft also chipped and was broken. Solution So solution: find a spare part right? Wrong. Nissan has long discontinued the proper sensor part number 32702-21U19, and it is no longer obtainable either through Nissan NSA or Nissan Japan. I was SOL without proper speed or mileage readings unless I figured out a way to replace this sensor. After tons of Googling and searching on SAU, I found that there IS however a sensor that looks almost exactly like the R33/260RS one: a sensor meant for the R33/R34 GTT and GTS-T with the 5 speed manual. The part number was 25010-21U00, and the body, plug, and shaft all looked exactly the same. The gear was different at the end, but knowing the sensor's gear is held on with a circlip, I figured I could just order the part and swap the gears. Cue me ordering a new part from JustJap down in Kirrawee, NSW, then waiting almost 3 weeks for shipping and customs clearing. The part finally arrives and what did I find? The freaking shaft lengths don't match. $&%* I discussed with Erik how to proceed, and figuring that I basically destroyed the sensor trying to get the shaft out of the damaged sensor from my car. we deemed it too dangerous to try and attempt to swap shafts to the correct length. I had to find a local CNC machinist to help me cut and notch down the shaft. After tons of frantic calling on a Friday afternoon, I managed to get hold of someone and he said he'd be able to do it over half a week. I sent him photos and had him take measurements to match not only the correct length and notch fitment, but also a groove to machine out to hold the retentive circlip. And the end result? *chef's kiss* Perfect. Since I didn't have pliers with me when I picked up the items, I tested the old gear and circlip on. Perfect fit. After that it was simply swapping out the plug bracket to the new sensor, mount it on the transfer case, refill with ATF/Nissan Matic Fluid D, then test out function. Thankfully with the rebuilt cluster and the new sensor, both the speedometer and odometer and now working properly!   And there you have it. About 5-6 weeks of headaches wrapped up in a 15 minute photo essay. As I was told it is rare for sensors of this generation to die so dramatically, but you never know what could go wrong with a 25+ year old car. I HOPE that no one else has to go through this problem like I did, so with my take on a solution I hope it helps others who may encounter this issue in the future. For the TL;DR: 1) Sensor breaks. 2) Find a replacement GTT/GTS-T sensor. 3) Find a CNC machinist to have you cut it down to proper specs. 4) Reinstall then pray to the JDM gods.   Hope this guide/story helps anyone else encountering this problem!
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