Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

well today i got the dump exhaust off..to fix the exhaust gasket leak.exhaust.. turns out there was maybe 1mm of the flange that WASNT leaking. When I pulled it off to fix it, it looks like the exhaust shop that did the exhaust did a dodgy, and shrunk the 3" to about 2.5" and put the stock flange back on (never taking it there again). Scotty the f**kn legend cut some of the exhaust off put it back to 3" with a new flange.. fixed.

Ok so made up a new gasket from Gasket material, with some gasket/exhaust seal. n put it back together..

it set.

Started the car.. i'de safely say about 50% of the turbo whine went away...sounds normal now..

still gonna take it to the turbo shop on monday to let him have a listen first..

once this all finished. i made some great souvlaki's and now im full and scotts so full he cant breathe!. goodnight Stagea owners.!

Glad to help.

You can cook those spicy souvos anytime mate, yum. :cheers: (sorry I know, you don't drink) :)

  • Like 1

I just get a black spray can and paint the i/c (just the front face) and piping black.

Isn't the stealth kit more expensive? Did they charge you the extra for it?

If not, I'd be spraying it yourself. Just use a satin finish.

did a service with Motul Chrono 300V + Greddy oil filter last weekend, i'm amazed at how smooth the car runs.

stewart warner boost gauge in, and reinstalled the foglights.

thinking about spraying the roof section between the rails gloss black - think it will look nice with the twin sunroofs tinted out. thoughts?

yes Ive always wanted a black roof between the rails, down the front pillars and over the bonnet

dayz S1 snow white.

and yeah the stageas Love the Motul 300v and Royal Purple.

anyone seen the 14point7.com widebands?

$100 for the controller, $50 for the o2 sensor

diy (basic soldering)

will probably be my next purchase (eventually)

also, mine is running pretty averagely, bogs down on cold start, feels very doughy, hesitating a bit :-/

i have a receipt for iridiums fitted about 20,000kms ago

i think i found it tho, someone has previously cut and replaced some of the wire going to the afm but only crimped it

so i soldered some new wire in and now it seems good :)

solder adds resistance to the wire, hence the crimp :)

Also on thin gauge wire, if too much heat is used, soldering can remove the annealing (which makes the wire malleable) from the copper and make the strands more susceptible to fatigue breakage.:thumbsup:

Edited by Daleo

Yep, just some Jaycar 5awg wire and some electrical ring connectors!

what do you ground?

as to the soldering, slightly higher resistance is better that random connections

i'll measure the resistance across it later

Recieved a box today containing my R33 calipers!

Got all the lines, shims and clips, and as a bonus what appear to be a virtually brand new set of brake pads :thumbsup:

Now for some offset brackets & bigger rotors...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Jack the back of the car up, pull that wheel off, pull that sensor out, and put a bore scope into the hole to inspect the outer casing, see if anything looks damaged before you pull the whole thing apart.
    • Ergh... So I pulled the speed sensor out again and the tip was shiny so I think it's rubbing the bearing. The bearing contains the magnets for the speed sensor so I think when the first sensor broke it damaged the magnet ring on the bearing.  This is just a Google image, but there is a hole going to the bearing. So when the tip broke off the old sensor I'm guessing it fouled the bearing... As the magnet is only protected by a plastic cover it would be easy to damage it. So I guess I'm doing a bearing again.   
    • My thinking is that if the O2 sensor is shot then your entire above described experience is pure placebo.
    • Here is the mess that I made. That filler there was successful in filling dents in that area. But in the middle area. I can feel dents. And I've gone ocer it multiple times with filler. And the filler is no longer there because i accidently sanded it away. I've chased my tail on this job but this is something else lol. So I'm gonna attempt filler one more time and if it doesn't work I'll just high fill primer the door and see where the issues are because guidecoat is of no use atm.
    • Ok, so I think I sort of figured out where I went wrong. So I definitely overthinked it, and I over sanded, which is probably a large part of the problem. to fix it, I ended up tapping some spots that were likely to be high, made them low, filled them in, and I tackled small sections at a time, and it feels a lot better.    I think what confused me as well is you have the bare metal, and some spots darker and some are lighter, and when I run my finger across it, it' would feel like it's a low spot, but I think it's just a transition in different texture from metal to body filler.    When your finger's sliding on the body filler, and crosses over to the bare metal, going back and forth, it feels like it's a low spot. So I kept putting filler there and sanding, but I think it was just a transition in texture, nothing to do with the low or high spot. But the panel's feels a lot better, and I'm just going to end up priming it, and then I'll block it after with guide coat.   Ended up wasting just about all of my filler on this damn door lol  
×
×
  • Create New...