Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hahah yeah ill want that too

with my new gearbox

well for $500.00 for the best shift kit i can get in mine. im happy.

that way if the box eventually gives up, i send it to him he rebuilds/upgrades the box for $2000....im happy with that

especially if Cihan's got something in mind for Trans ECU mapping like ironpaw said..

yeh. although my plugs in the car were pretty new, they were changed on complianced which im told is rare..

Damn. My compliance shop didn't even change the bloody oil. :rant: Stuff that came out was fairly black goddamit.

Lucky for me I changed it /trans oil/oil filter/plugs/air filter/and drained the rad water, and filled it up with the real stuff..... :rolleyes:

Damn. My compliance shop didn't even change the bloody oil. :rant:

lol they changed oil belts plugs power steering brake fluid.. pretty much everything except the transmission oil.

Im kinda glad they didnt change the trans because if they put the wrong oil in i may well be f**ked!

Edited by AaronNM35

neither did mine!!

removed all the good stuff though

i spoke to them prior to compliance and said i'd much rather a way you get around keeping all the goodies..

especially the remote start..

why cant they get rid of HICAS on compliance lol

Just some quick notes on the fitment of the 'power duct' to my NM35.

1. It makes more of a turbo induction noise on boost which I like. Keeps everyone guessing

2. Following a truck with hay bales on the drive over to S.A. means your air filter gets straw in it

3. Easier to see how dirty the filter is!

4. Economy I would hazard a guess is slightly better. I'm getting 550 to a tank of around 60-65L driving in peak hour.

Also, the Tanabe's coil overs are going well. Still wallowing a little (shock damper rate is lower than the springs require I would assume). Corners like it's on rails! Quite neutral with some understeer with light throttle.

Anyone know if the Autech Axis model has aftermarket sway bars? Me thinks so.

Just some quick notes on the fitment of the 'power duct' to my NM35.

1. It makes more of a turbo induction noise on boost which I like. Keeps everyone guessing

2. Following a truck with hay bales on the drive over to S.A. means your air filter gets straw in it

3. Easier to see how dirty the filter is!

4. Economy I would hazard a guess is slightly better. I'm getting 550 to a tank of around 60-65L driving in peak hour.

Also, the Tanabe's coil overs are going well. Still wallowing a little (shock damper rate is lower than the springs require I would assume). Corners like it's on rails! Quite neutral with some understeer with light throttle.

Anyone know if the Autech Axis model has aftermarket sway bars? Me thinks so.

i stole mine off my sisters v35. good thing i did too.. she wrote the bugger off!

Ok, better say what I have done somewhat lately - Tiptronic was reversed, to stop me changing down gears...

GB sway bars I put on last weekend, and Lowered Eibach springs went on earlier this week- waitin on 19" Rims, lowered ,the 17 " stockies look.... ridiculous! Car handles Amazingly for simple upgrades, much more faith in it.

R32 GTR brakes are waiting for the new wheels to come along, so I can stop properly :thumbsup:

Picked up a Z33 midpipe today from Northshore Prestige (thanks Guys). Thats an upgrade to the massive/quiet centre muff that on there. Apparently just got to get it extended 6 inches...

Ok, better say what I have done somewhat lately - Tiptronic was reversed, to stop me changing down gears...

GB sway bars I put on last weekend, and Lowered Eibach springs went on earlier this week- waitin on 19" Rims, lowered ,the 17 " stockies look.... ridiculous! Car handles Amazingly for simple upgrades, much more faith in it.

R32 GTR brakes are waiting for the new wheels to come along, so I can stop properly :thumbsup:

Picked up a Z33 midpipe today from Northshore Prestige (thanks Guys). Thats an upgrade to the massive/quiet centre muff that on there. Apparently just got to get it extended 6 inches...

Awesome to see some upgrades for the PM Alex!

Anyone know what the Tein Super Wagon's are like? Harsh as f**k?

There's a bit of anti Tein sentiments here ain't there? :teehee:

No, not at all.

From all accounts they are a very, very good kit but when there are other excellent kits floating around and cost considerably less, well I guess that's why most of us don't have them.

I still would like to buy a set of Teins. The price was crazy last time I looked though.>_<

Also:

Are you guys talking about crap brakes on the stag because you:

1. Have crap pads?

2. Do heaps of braking/accel during 'spirited' driving, and the brakes can't dissipate the heat soak so you get fade (could be fluid related though)?

3. Just want bling?

I would really like to know!

I've done a few bedding in stops to bed the pads properly into my machined rotors (stupid compliance workshop....), and it pulls up a treat now. ABS works too! :thumbsup:

I've also changed the fluid from DOT3 over to my ELF semi-racing fluid that I use in the Datto.

I still would like to buy a set of Teins. The price was crazy last time I looked though.>_<

Also:

Are you guys talking about crap brakes on the stag because you:

1. Have crap pads?

2. Do heaps of braking/accel during 'spirited' driving, and the brakes can't dissipate the heat soak so you get fade (could be fluid related though)?

3. Just want bling?

I would really like to know!

I've done a few bedding in stops to bed the pads properly into my machined rotors (stupid compliance workshop....), and it pulls up a treat now. ABS works too! :thumbsup:

I've also changed the fluid from DOT3 over to my ELF semi-racing fluid that I use in the Datto.

Im going to go the route of new rotors & pads shortly, but stock calipers. Will see how it goes, I wont be 'tracking' my car so I dont think I reallllly need big f'off brakes.

Would be interesting to see a comparison between R33 / Brembo / Stock in pull up distances from 60km/h. Doubt it'll happen though.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ha, well, it's been.... a bit of a journey. Things have taken much longer than I'd hoped. I'll probably put up a thread at some stage. Hopefully soon. The car's not done any kms since my update in June though, put it that way.
    • Here's the chart for fuel pressure vs. current draw, assuming your base fuel pressure is 3 bar and you run like 0.5bar boost on WOT, you should only momentarily hit 9amps here and there. (Ignore my prev post, I cannot read a chart these days it seems)
    • Those comp test results are not hideous. Whether they are accurate or not (ie, when that comp tester says 140 psi, is the real pressure120, 140 or 160?) is unknown to us. The state of the battery used to crank it over is unknown, etc etc. Many people around here would say that the absolute values and the spread are perfectly fine to just add boost and keep going. I personally would be happier with a narrower spread than that, but even the diff between 125 and 145 is not terrible. That one cylinder at 125 though, has probably copped some damage relative to the others. You should inspect the valves seeing as you've got it open. Do you know how to measure installed ring gaps? That, and an inspection of the rings themselves, is how you will determine whether they need to be replaced. If you're not good to do these things, take the block and the pistons and rings to a shop that is, and ask them for the go/no-go on them. Do the bores need a hone at all? If so, you might well be justified in getting some different pistons in order to get away from the ring supply problem. Whether you're happy to spend a lot more money right now, on more gear, rather than less money, but an amount that looks stupid given that you will only get a handful of rings in exchange for that money, is for you to decide.
    • also possibly backed up to my filler and shat down it! 🤣
    • Ok so i would love some advice here please, i purchased an R33 a few months back and its had a few mods done to the engine, its an RB25det running a Master ECU, 1200cc injectors, bigger turbo, oil cooler, oil filter relocation kit, Spool H-beam rods, acl/ross pistons. When i removed the motor from the vehicle (as its getting a respray) i thought i would compression test it and these are the following results. Cylinder 1-145psi, Cylinder 2-143psi, Cylinder 3-125psi, Cylinder 4-145psi, Cylinder 5-140psi, Cylinder 6-135psi this test was done with the motor on the ground and powering up the starter motor. I dropped the sump and found broken oil squirters on cylinder 3,5 and 6. I was told my rings are probably worn so i stripped the motor completely to get a new set of rings for it. The trouble is no one has these rings anywhere and they have to be custom made by Ross over in the states and will cost about $600+$200 delivery. My question is how can i tell if my rings are at fault and if they are still ok and is this price ok for a set of rings?
×
×
  • Create New...