Jump to content
SAU Community

What Have You Done To Your Stagea Lately?

Hanso

By Hanso,
in Four Door Family & Wagoneers

 Share

Recommended Posts

JayM35 Collaborator

JayM35

Posted
Posted

Not what I did to my stagea, but more what I did WITH it..

On the way to nightwars (a summer drag racing series), threw sparks all over everyone elses cars, popped a couple cats eyes out of the road and now all I can smell is hot metal... Flexi in the exhaust looks worse for wear and so does the rear tow hook... Might need to raise it. :(

  • Replies 9.3k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

chuckie
chuckie

FITTED 2 NEW BOLTS TO MY Brakes is this a MOD i CAN POST or do i need aprovall from NM#% But i may need to ask if it`s ok to POST hope to POST MORE SOON

chuckie
chuckie

Thanks for all your HELP , I guess owning a NM#% is some sort of gift , i guess with all your imput i will be happy to have a NM#% in the family & may be you will be more helpfully then, but a

chuckie
chuckie

LOOKING AT BUYING NM#% CAN I GET SOME POINTERS ON WHATS SHIT & WHATS NOT got some new bolts for Calipers

Posted Images

Daleo Grand Master

Daleo

Posted
Posted (edited)

Not what I did to my stagea, but more what I did WITH it..

On the way to nightwars (a summer drag racing series), threw sparks all over everyone elses cars, popped a couple cats eyes out of the road and now all I can smell is hot metal... Flexi in the exhaust looks worse for wear and so does the rear tow hook... Might need to raise it. :(

Don't do it!:spank: As an extension to the "Don't buy wheels that fit the car; make the car fit the wheels" ethos; I propose a "Make the road suit your ride height" solution.

You just need to keep frequenting the roads you use; until you've worn a groove them all to suit your ride height, no more clearance issues.

Anything still grinding will eventually be worn away; consider these items "Surplus to requirement" Problem solved.:thumbsup:

You're welcome.:whistling:

Edited by Daleo
WAGON_BOY Mentor

WAGON_BOY

Posted
Posted

ok this is what i found............. so basically its a wait of money.

Posted 27 April 2011 - 02:24 PMsnapback.pngironpaw, on 27 April 2011 - 01:55 PM, said:

Anyreason these won't work for our cars?

http://www.importmon...%20NM35%2014750

review: http://my350z.com/fo...-installed.html

They will not remove our restriction.

Ask Scott when you see him next how well it worked in that regard.

snapback.pngbigkevracer, on 27 April 2011 - 02:13 PM, said:

If I read the old discussions properly though, Mines wouldn't remove the throttle restriction.

I figure we're not going to get a flash that does everything we want, but a flash that removes the speed limiter and throttle restriction and gives us 80-90% of what we want is fine with me. And when I want that remaining 10-20%, I can get an emanage knowing that the two main areas it can't fix are sorted from the flash.

Mines completely remap the entire throttle map... does that mean they remove the restriction? Buggered if I know.

I asked them directly if they remove the restriction below 3000rpm and they replied "we do not", but they did state that they do remap the entire throttle map up to their normal 7100rpm (they will go higher, but issue a warning of "please consider engine safety").

I think your plan of the Gzone + emanage is almost as good as it gets.

Commsman Veteran

Commsman

Posted
Posted (edited)

came across this whilst searching ebay for other stuff.................... thoughts ???

Throttle Controller

Yes, a waste of money IMO. You'd be better off spending the $350 on real mods to improve the throttle response. Did you see the claim:

Enhances throttle response OR fuel saving of up to 20% ? I suppose 2% is 'up to 20%'....

Edited by Commsman
pipster11 Grand Master

pipster11

Posted
Posted

new o2 sensor today

was hoping to pull the pins out of the old plug and swap it over, turns out the neo plug has slightly smaller pins :(

3 crimp joiners later and i was away, i think the old sensor was ok but for ~$70 it should help on the way back up to qld

also half way through waxing it, so its slippery through the air ninja.gif

andy65b Veteran

andy65b

Posted
Posted

Installed my Walbro 250 pump in my M35 today and set up a power source direct from the battery to ensure full power to the pump at all times.

Reason for changing the pump was following the introduction of Nismo ECU, 3 inch suction pipe and spring on turbo actuator was seeing AFR being too high.

AFR's on medium throttle and below 4500rpm were all good and around 11.8-12.5 but higher rpm and more throttle saw AFR's is 13's.

So new pump fitted and now AFR's are much better at 10.7 to redline.

Now to start playing with boost again to see what the car will handle.

:rolleyes:

Commsman Veteran

Commsman

Posted
Posted

Installed my Walbro 250 pump in my M35 today and set up a power source direct from the battery to ensure full power to the pump at all times.

Reason for changing the pump was following the introduction of Nismo ECU, 3 inch suction pipe and spring on turbo actuator was seeing AFR being too high.

AFR's on medium throttle and below 4500rpm were all good and around 11.8-12.5 but higher rpm and more throttle saw AFR's is 13's.

So new pump fitted and now AFR's are much better at 10.7 to redline.

Now to start playing with boost again to see what the car will handle.

:rolleyes:

Hey Andy, that's a big change. Are the AFR's that rich throughout, or mainly heading towards redline?

andy65b Veteran

andy65b

Posted
Posted

Hey Andy, that's a big change. Are the AFR's that rich throughout, or mainly heading towards redline?

Have to do a bit more testing to be sure but I don't think they were. Will be able to tell you more tomorrow.

Also got to get the boost controller working again and run more like 17psi.

Commsman Veteran

Commsman

Posted
Posted

Have to do a bit more testing to be sure but I don't think they were. Will be able to tell you more tomorrow.

Also got to get the boost controller working again and run more like 17psi.

Nice result & keen to hear what the AFRs are like after running around for a while. Mmm, more boost :thumbsup:

andy65b Veteran

andy65b

Posted
Posted

Hey Andy, that's a big change. Are the AFR's that rich throughout, or mainly heading towards redline?

AFR's are

off boost low RPM (0-2500) 13.5 - 14.5

Low boost mid RPM (2500-4500, up to 10psi) 12.3-12.8

High boost full throttle (4500 +, 15psi) 10.7-11.2

Quite happy with these numbers.

Commsman Veteran

Commsman

Posted
Posted

Andy, those AFR numbers are pretty darn good. Off boost & mid range is very close to what I'm running. Upper end of rev range / max boost is a little rich compared to what I found works best for my car, so you have a nice buffer to increase boost safely.

Did you get a look at max injector duty cycle now?

andy65b Veteran

andy65b

Posted
Posted

Did you get a look at max injector duty cycle now?

I knew someone would ask that...... lol

It is certainly better than on the stock pump but at redline I am getting up to 95% duty cycle but this is with AFR of 10.5 so not too worried about that.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • RP1421
      S15 Spec R

      By RP1421 · Posted

      As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • joshuaho96
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
    • perry_r33
      R34 GTR Vspec Garage Sale - All must go!

      By perry_r33 · Posted

      Pm sent 
    • Robot
      Skyline v36 350GT sedan hunting on idle

      By Robot · Posted

      Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • GabsReDeal
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By GabsReDeal · Posted

      After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
×
×
  • Create New...