Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I wouldn't bother mate. If you are dead serious about power, then get a different (3inch) muffler welded on the end and keep that Muffler. But I would suggest if you don't have a high flow turbo, piggyback, etc etc, I don't think the exhaust will be that big a deal. I'm only going by the Mods in your Sig. Do you really want it louder? Doesn't seem like it has any muffler to it anyway!

Fitted Tein S-Tech springs in my series 2 RS4S yesterday. Was hoping for the 1.5inch drop that they claim but it's only dropped about 10mm in the front and practically nothing in the rear. Just hoping it'll settle down a bit over the next couple of weeks with driving. It's definitely stiffer though.

Went to drive it for the first time in 2-3 weeks, found the battery was flat.

Put it on charge for about 6 hours, checked voltage, 1.5v. Pulling it out and putting it on a deep charge for a couple of days to see if it'll be ok, since it's only about 6-9 months old. :(

just fitted a new rack end on passenger side, bought a new pair from ebay (link from Dale)

http://www.ebay.com....#ht_1749wt_1037

after fitting it and drove the car, steering was very loose that when i came out to check the wheels. the left one (passenger side) had a toe in about 5-7 degrees :angry:

after a closer inspection, the new rack end is actually longer than stock one (refer pic) so had to cut off to roughly the same length, now just need to do wheel alignment

IMG_0334.jpg

thought to share this so if anyone else needs to change the rack end to the same ones i bought, better measure and cut 1st

I had to remove those two black strips at the edges of the tailgate lid & the spolier screws into the metal beneath where they sat.

Then it just basically sits on top of the black plastic trim that the centre brake light is part of (with help from a bit of double sided tape)

I'll take some more pics when my wife gets back from the shops with it. :whistling:

Dyno'd the car last night. Car feels awesome to drive. Less boost made more power.....18.5psi ftw!

240killa wasps....car feels strong right through the range.

Jez the tune is awesome....and the f$@ker starts hot or cold for the first time in a long time.

Dyno'd the car last night. Car feels awesome to drive. Less boost made more power.....18.5psi ftw!

240killa wasps....car feels strong right through the range.

Jez the tune is awesome....and the f$@ker starts hot or cold for the first time in a long time.

Excellent buddy :) glad ur happy.

Sorry about the dyno sheet. Damn dyno restarting on me. Forgot to input ur details back in correctly.

Haha i underestimated ur car. Wheelspin on the 1st pull of the night. Was exciting. We need to find a way to lock it into gear though. Was hard to tune below 4000rpm. Will have a play on the road when u are ready

We need to find a way to lock it into gear though. Was hard to tune below 4000rpm.

Limp mate, the kickdown is just to keep you on your toes. :P

The torque converter lockup solenoid needs a 12v voltage on it for a start...

I made up some speaker mounts for the M35 to fit some Alpine Type R 6.5" front splits and 6.5" rear 2 way coaxial speakers. Made them out of some structural ply I had laying around. These will finish up with the speaker sitting close up to the door trim as the factory speakers do. Will finish them up and install them over the next few days. Pretty happy with the result so far.

Edited by slippylotion

Limp mate, the kickdown is just to keep you on your toes. :P

The torque converter lockup solenoid needs a 12v voltage on it for a start...

Haha sure did. Foot flat 100rpm too early and it

Jumps down a gear.

With the lock up how well does this work? It would be good to do this just whilst tuning then we can put back to standard

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
    • Nah, that is hella wrong. If I do a simple linear between 150°C (0.407v) and 50°C (2.98v) I get the formula Temperature = -38.8651*voltage + 165.8181 It is perfectly correct at 50 and 150, but it is as much as 20° out in the region of 110°C, because the actual data is significantly non-linear there. It is no more than 4° out down at the lowest temperatures, but is is seriously shit almost everywhere. I cannot believe that the instruction is to do a 2 point linear fit. I would say the method I used previously would have to be better.
×
×
  • Create New...