Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Looks like what happens when only tap water is used instead of a coolant/demineralised water mix.

Thanks for lowering my heart rate a bit, only had it for a week, and I have to start a gearbox swap on my Jeep.

When I drained it there was only a very faint smell of antifreeze, like it had a bottle of premix put in then topped up with tap water.

Coolant also inhibits corrosion, so first step would be to thoroughly flush and then fill with appropriate coolant/demineralised water mix IMO.

Thats the plan, I think Ill run through some coolant treatment stuff before aswell for good measure. Do the thermostat at the same time.

Thats the plan, I think Ill run through some coolant treatment stuff before aswell for good measure. Do the thermostat at the same time.

Also - take some of the smaller coolant lines off, and the heater core lines and flush them through - you may find a lot of crap floating around in the wee little areas and corners of the system. I flush my heater core out when I change coolant and usually some shit comes out.

Its important to get good flow around the system because certain valve thermostats open and close based on it.

Sent out back up turbo for rebuild today; should see it back early next week.

Also, finally reassembled and fitted my R34 GTSt calipers and rotors! :banana:

These were stripped and bead blasted, then coated in a 600deg ceramic coating; that is impervious to chemical and brake fluid attack, so they should be near on indestructible, and look great for ages.

Rotors were basically brand new OEM Nissan, and since they're a nice high carbon content steel, I decided to use them, so these were also bead blasted, coated, then sent out for machining and slotting.

Pics;

post-61153-0-94657700-1342426357_thumb.jpgpost-61153-0-59935000-1342426373_thumb.jpg

post-61153-0-89505100-1342426402_thumb.jpgpost-61153-0-73526900-1342426427_thumb.jpg

post-61153-0-25100600-1342426446_thumb.jpgpost-61153-0-13960500-1342426472_thumb.jpg

post-61153-0-73737600-1342426491_thumb.jpgpost-61153-0-38380200-1342426509_thumb.jpg

For anyone thinking of using the 310mm R34 GTSt brake upgrade; you will need to cut away or remove the backing plates from the front hubs; as they foul the rotors.

Not a big deal, but you'll need to be handy with a grinder to do a neat job.

Also; I remove the double flare seat from the brake line thread, this means you don't need to butcher your banjo's to fit the OEM lines. You can just use a small ezy out, or a self tapper to yank it out.

I had expected them to be a nightmare to bleed; given they were completely dry internally, but they were probably the easiest brake bleed I've ever done! Only took around 5 mins a side; and the pedal came up great.

Still bedding the unknown original pads ATM; and I'll be using a fresh new set of Remsa's from GSL Rallysport by the end of the week, so I'm not sure what the power will be like, but they certainly seems decent so far.

Edited by Daleo

Looks great Dale! Stone shields are for pussys anyway :)

You didn't want to wait till you got new pads to bed them in? I heard that brakes like having the one pad compound applied to the surface. Brakes are a dark art to me - so many different opinions, I dunno what right. There is a lot of BS floating around out there I think.

One thing I haven't got right, and effects things, is the wheel nut torque can cause shudder and warp in discs. Sigh. Fark I hate brakes.

Looks great Dale! Stone shields are for pussys anyway :)

You didn't want to wait till you got new pads to bed them in? I heard that brakes like having the one pad compound applied to the surface. Brakes are a dark art to me - so many different opinions, I dunno what right. There is a lot of BS floating around out there I think.

One thing I haven't got right, and effects things, is the wheel nut torque can cause shudder and warp in discs. Sigh. Fark I hate brakes.

The pads aren't a big issue really; I'm not actually "bedding" these pads (heat cycling to transfer pad material on to the rotors) which is what makes the brakes work properly.

The friction of the pads pressing against the rotor is not what makes brakes work; it's the grabbing and breaking of bonds between the pad material deposited on the rotor surface and the pad itself.

You are right about the incompatibility of differing pad materials; but 30 km of driving, with maybe 4 light brake applications isn't going to be an issue. You really need a proper heat cycle bed in, and a few hundred kays of driving.

I've never really heard about wheel nut torque being particularly critical; but a wild variation might be an issue. I've never used anything but a wheel brace or a breaker bar & socket.

The one that does fool the younger players, is the effect a dud wheel bearing can have; brakes will develop a shudder over 5000km and rotors need machining; only to develop a shudder after another 5000km.

The other is the fact that discs rarely actually warp; the shudder you feel is almost never a disc with axial runout; it is almost always an uneven build up of pad material on the rotor, or a hard spot on the rotor that has a different coefficient of friction to the rest of the rotor.

This can also manifest in severe chatter when attempting to machine the rotor.

Dale, what specs are you getting the turbo built to?

I've ended up going with the tried and true "Sierra Stage 2" which ironically; is almost identical in wheel size to a 2871.

I spent a good piece of time today speaking to the turbo builder, and looking at a number of different impellers and turbines to demonstrate his viewpoint.

I was pretty sold, as he was the only one that would actually justify his selection; rather than just "This is what we use."

The main reason I didn't end up going with the 2860 was the fact that he doesn't believe there is enough material in the housings to guarantee that it can be machined accurately to take the 28 series core. This is why the common choice is the 30 series Garrett core; even though for most people, it's a bit big for good response.

At the end of the day I'm satisfied it will do what I want, and I've essentially made it so I'll need to do a bit of tuning to get the best out of it; which is what my tinkering mind wanted to do anyway.

That, and I will now be able to make lag based excuses about why my car can't win a drag race. :P

TL;DR?

I know SFA about brakes, and even less about turbos...

Great post Dale. I read the same thing regarding warp vs build up. I have certainly suffered the build up before but thankfully seemed to have wiped themselves.

It was an IS200 that was really fussy about nut torque. Had new discs on it, only to warp quickly. Once we dealt with that and went factory on the torque via wrench, was all good.

I'm really yet to give the sumitomos/PMus a good long hammering in the Stagea, to see what they do when really hot, but they are certainly a good upgrade over stock.

Stage 2- that's the same as what is on andy's old arx I think. Worked well on that I believe.

Dale, now I know why you sounded confident about getting the turbo back early next week, lol.

Looking forward to the first impressions report when you get it in.

Edited by Commsman

finally got around to purchasing some injectors for my build. bought a set of Sard 650cc injectors at a really good price :D they should go well with the walbro i think. got a turbosmart dual stage boost controller in, just not hooked up yet, need to get a z32 afm, and purchase my turbo, then into DMD Tuning for a nistune for a hopeful 280rwkw.

Great post Dale. I read the same thing regarding warp vs build up. I have certainly suffered the build up before but thankfully seemed to have wiped themselves.

It was an IS200 that was really fussy about nut torque. Had new discs on it, only to warp quickly. Once we dealt with that and went factory on the torque via wrench, was all good.

I'm really yet to give the sumitomos/PMus a good long hammering in the Stagea, to see what they do when really hot, but they are certainly a good upgrade over stock.

Stage 2- that's the same as what is on andy's old arx I think. Worked well on that I believe.

Maybe the IS uses a thin flange on the hub; this might account for the fussiness regarding wheel nut tension.

The Sierra is what Andy was using, not sure if he was using the S1 or S2 spec. Also Craig thinks Spoolin has the same. I guess we'll see.

Also having the rear housing ceramic coated once I get it back.

Dale, now I know why you sounded confident about getting the turbo back early next week, lol.

Looking forward to the first impressions report when you get it in.

Lol, I'm pretty lucky being so close to a couple of turbo specialists; at least I can save a bit not having to freight it all over the place.

Craig was also very helpful; listening to my mad ramblings over the last few days, thanks mate.

finally got around to purchasing some injectors for my build. bought a set of Sard 650cc injectors at a really good price :D they should go well with the walbro i think. got a turbosmart dual stage boost controller in, just not hooked up yet, need to get a z32 afm, and purchase my turbo, then into DMD Tuning for a nistune for a hopeful 280rwkw.

what turbs ya going to run? Auto/ manual keep us posted

Still kicking man, trucks going well, needs to be louder tho, the twin 4" pipes are too quiet. Lol

You sold the rx4 yet?

yeah not sold yet only advertised them in sa section eoi really want them to go to a good home. and between the ute the stag and baby number 3 on the way i got enough on my plate with out contemplating the 4s

what turbs ya going to run? Auto/ manual keep us posted

i have an rs4s, so factory manual. im pretty much sold on a hypergear ATR43G3 with a .82b internally gated housing. i have an r33 aswell that i went all out on last time, and im sick of the defects, so im trying to get as much out of the stag as i can and keep it as stock looking as possible. i should easily make 250rwkw @ 18psi with what ive got according to DMD tuning but ill wait and see i guess, if it falls short, i might look at getting some poncams put in it.

my main concern atm is my clutch, its feels great but im not sure if its stock, i might have to try and have a look, it had a few mods when it came to me from japan, so im not sure what its got in it, if i need to replace it, im looking at an NPC organic single with flywheel.

Edited by OMY31T

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • My experience with Rising Sun Exports Before agreeing to the sale I tried to do as much research as I could (obviously), his Facebook reviews are 98% and he goes Live at least once or twice a week. I contacted 2 people in the UK who had used him for their imports, both had positive feedback. His explanation and talk through of the import process was thorough, answering any query no matter how stupid it was. It felt as soon as the money was sent, communication dropped off. I asked for shipping updates every 2 weeks or so, not wanting to pester him, he never had any updates. I wasn't informed the car had been dropped off at the port, I only found out by his Facebook story. I asked for the photos taken at the port, knowing he would need some for insurance purposes. I received a few 5 second clips and that's it. When asked again, he said his staff had them. Weeks later I asked again, he tells me he doesn't have any, but does have 50 photos from the original advert. I never received them. I eventually got the documents sent via WhatsApp after I mentioned the port was requesting them. I purchased a CarVX report, to find out the vehicle is a Grade R with recorded accident damage, first recorded in 2017 when it was first auctioned. He never told me the grade, then again I didn't ask. His response was "Grade R means nothing, it wasn't chassis damage". Still, I would have liked to have been informed about it. Jon prides himself on being open and honest when it comes to inspecting cars, it's his main job doing so at the auctions for customers. When the vehicle arrived in the UK I noticed a few little cosmetic issues. It's a 21 year old car so it wasn't going to be mint condition. The side skirts are cracked on each corner and the sealant is failing. The front grill on the bonnet/hood isn't secured very well, mounting studs are missing. Both minor things, but again, it would have been nice to be told. During a Facebook Live walk around video of the vehicle, he mentioned it has a front Whiteline anti roll bar/sway bar. While on the inspection ramp, I noticed the stock item has been installed. When first questioned, his response was "the ARB? Switched? Since when, it never had them". Since sending video and photo evidence I've not received a response. I'm probably being over critical of the overall condition of an old car, but all I wanted was honesty (which he claims to have). I'm aware I wasn't his only customer, he's busy doing XYZ but other reviews praise him for great communication with regular updates and photos, I felt I didn't receive the same treatment. 
    • I was able to get some underside photos while the car was on the ramp The suspension is all Altezza/IS200/IS300 so getting part's will hopefully be less of a headache
    • Welcome to my 2004 Toyota Mark ii IR-V Fortuna (series 2) With a 1JZ-GTE powerplant under the bonnet (hood) it'll give me plenty of scope for power upgrades. For those who aren't familiar with imports, the 1JZ-GTE is a 2.5L 6 cylinder VVTi engine with a single turbocharger. This has the factory R154 5 speed gearbox, along with a aftermarket 2 way LSD differential (brand unknown). Under the arches are a set of CST Zero 1 alloys, 18x9 +30 225/40 up front and 18x9.5 +15 265/35 on the rear. The car was quite low in Japan and there's evidence of the wheels catching the rolled arches/fenders. The tyre's aren't great so I'm in two minds whether to replace both or just the tyres and put up with the wider wheels on the rear. The car still uses stock brakes with the addition of some braided hoses. The exterior is stock with the exception of a BN Sports front bumper and a replacement Fortuna grill  Moving to the interior, the steering wheel has been replaced with a dished MOMO steering wheel (which will get swapped for my Momo Tuner for the time being) Defi Link Gauges are mounted above the climate controls and on the A pillar, the Oil Temp,Oil Pressure,Water Temp and Boost gauges should help with spirited and track driving  The stock seats have been replaced with some retrimmed Recaro bucket seats. Being a larger build these are a little snug, unfortunately the orange isn't for me so I'll look into replacing these down the line. Other modifications include a twin plate clutch, Blitz intercooler, Evolve alloy radiator, a stainless exhaust with decat, HKS EVC-S boost controller and coil overs
    • Apologies for the long read My R34 GTT was up for sale at the beginning of spring due to a few repairs creeping up. The strut tops needed replacing, roof and bonnet (hood) painting (yay for 3 stage pearl) and the underside stripped and treated. I sold the car which allowed me to be in a much better place financially. Leading up to the sale I was already thinking about the replacement. In an ideal world it needed to be a good all-rounder. Something I can mess around with, modify, do track days, do the school run, go on long drives etc.  Options included but not limited to... Laurel C35, Evo 8/9, Civic FD2, Impreza Hawkeye, Aristo and even an Audi S4 Avant (I've already got the Mazda 6 wagon). But there was always one car at the top of the list The Toyota Mark ii JZX110 I found an advert on a Facebook group for an example in Japan, from a seller called Jon at Rising Sun Exports. A few messages back and forth and Jon calls me from Yokohama one morning (or afternoon in his case). He briefly explained the import process, the costs involved and a repeat of the advert. After much deliberation, the price was agreed and the sale was locked in. I've never imported a vehicle so I jumped into the unknown head first. The money transfer was completed through wise.com (fees apply), very easy to use and the money was with him within a day or two.  The car suspension was raised for the vessel and the car dropped off at the port. It was 7 weeks later when the bill of lading was received and the freight invoice sent to me, followed by the export certificate a couple of days after (both digital copies) In the mean time the port had been in contact. I needed an agent to deal with the NOVA (notification of vehicle arrival) along with the tax/duty invoice, this was £75.00. The port also had a fee of £100, I'm guessing to cover the cost of the 10 day 'free storage' and for moving the car off the boat etc. They need a copy of the vehicle invoice, freight invoice and export certificate to allow the vehicle to pass through customs. The vessel arrived on Tuesday 5th August, the tax/duty invoice was generated and sent over. This is generally tax 20% and duty 10% of the vehicle value. Although the invoice came in at a higher amount than I had calculated. Once HMRC had received the payment the vehicle could be released from customs. I thought once the tax/duty was paid you could collect at any point, that's not the case. Your agent will need to book a collection slot, I requested Thursday 7th which was accepted, with a 9:00am slot allocated. It was a 5:00am start from Norfolk heading to Southampton. We eventually found the compound, upon presenting the bill of lading and some ID they released the car (they drove it out of the compound to the front ready for us to load up). The email from the port stated each slot had a 10 minute window, which seemed abit farfetched but the staff said it's not a strict rule. We were there for approx. 30-40 mins in total. A week prior to collecting I contacted my garage and explained the situation, I was able to get an inspection slot that afternoon. For the registration, DVLA require the car to be insured, for this I used a company called Adrian Flux who can insure the vehicle using the VIN number. 
    • Hey guys, looking for these side skirts if anyone can help me out. 
×
×
  • Create New...