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I did a boost leak test today, no issues. Now I have no idea why the external gate isn't holding boost. The 45mm Turbosmart gate has 26psi of spring in it, with no controller, and is now only holding 19psi... Perhaps the springs have softened?

Bloody Turbosmart...

I did a boost leak test today, no issues. Now I have no idea why the external gate isn't holding boost. The 45mm Turbosmart gate has 26psi of spring in it, with no controller, and is now only holding 19psi... Perhaps the springs have softened?

Bloody Turbosmart...

Pitting or damage on the seating faces?

I had thought that Dale, but with little to no carbon build-up in the exhaust it wouldn't be likely. Plus the boost curve would be all over the place once it opened. It is literally holding a flat 19psi now.

I had thought that Dale, but with little to no carbon build-up in the exhaust it wouldn't be likely. Plus the boost curve would be all over the place once it opened. It is literally holding a flat 19psi now.

If its the gate have you asked Turbosmart? I've found them pretty good when I've had questions in the past.

I had thought that Dale, but with little to no carbon build-up in the exhaust it wouldn't be likely. Plus the boost curve would be all over the place once it opened. It is literally holding a flat 19psi now.

I was more thinking of the kind of damage you get with a burnt exhaust valve; a small leak allows a flame path across the seat; cuts through like an oxy.

There's more than enough heat & pressure to do it.

This kind of thing;

Burnt+Valve11086627986.jpg

or this;

amc_1d.jpg

Less aggressive, more like erosion.

Edited by Daleo

I found them absolutely useless. When I asked for the heavy springs I couldn't believe I had to buy 3 new expensive springs for 26psi, and that was the highest they had. Then no-one couldn't even supply them. I was so pissed I actually got some after market springs made up, which they proceeded to explain would void my warranty, and possibly damage the gate (bullshit) Seems even the Turbosmart springs I ended up buying weren't up to the task.

In contrast, the Tial gate I bought for a customer recently came with every spring I could ever want, and a water cooled housing, which would have saved the springs i'm sure.

I will check it out sometime Dale, I don't think it's leaking though. It's a pita to get up there.

I realise this is the what have you done to your Stagea lately thread, but I literally did nothing but turned my car on last night, and the boot light mysteriously started working.

I love self fixing bits.

Upgraded the front pads on my S2 C34 to QFM Ar1ms. Stops good with not too much noise but i rather good brakes then silance.

I had EBC yellows before hand but only lasted a few months of hills daily driving and a little towing so therefore the upgrade.

Got them from GSL rallysport, thinking with all the problems of getting the correct brakes i was expecting them to be wrong haha but they were right first go! Highly recomended!

Haven't done much to mine for the past 4 months up until last week. Nice to be working on the car again.

Installed my Grom USB2 unit with BT and iPod interfaces. Works well

Installed Nismo rear diff cover and changed front and rear diff oil (NEO Platinum 75w90HD)

Installed V36 Y-pipe - Yes Alex, straight bolt on and no issues with the transfer case

Picked up coated headers from HPC in Leongatha and plan to get them in with the Berk HFC's next weekend.

Haven't done much to mine for the past 4 months up until last week. Nice to be working on the car again.

Installed my Grom USB2 unit with BT and iPod interfaces. Works well

Installed Nismo rear diff cover and changed front and rear diff oil (NEO Platinum 75w90HD)

Installed V36 Y-pipe - Yes Alex, straight bolt on and no issues with the transfer case

Picked up coated headers from HPC in Leongatha and plan to get them in with the Berk HFC's next weekend.

care to elaborate maybe some pic's...... is this used with the stock headunit???

whats sound quality like ?

I went and got my car from the smash repairer's, the door mirror rust and rear bumper scuff are fixed, and the new spoiler is painted and on. As we were walking up to the car to inspect it, the shop owner pointed at a big puddle under the car, and I dismissed it as from the air con.

Paid for the repairs, left and drove the whole 5mins home (if that). Got home and there was a squealing noise and leaking radiator fluid as I got out. Popped the bonnet and saw steam - great! So the old man and I have spent about 4hrs removing ONE f*cking hose from the rear of the engine, placed very annoyingly under the plenum. Hopefully it's the right hose, but we'll replace averything we can reach so we don't have to do it again...

care to elaborate maybe some pic's...... is this used with the stock headunit???

whats sound quality like ?

Nothing really to see. Small BT mic coming out of the top of the A-pillar and iPod sits in the tray under the arm rest.

Audio is very, very clear... better than the PA11-NIS I had in my previous Stag.

BT quality is good but callers hear quite a bit of echo. Haven't figured a way around this yet.

Yep, plugged straight into the stock head unit. Press "FM" button then "CD" about a second after. A voice then says which option will currently be in use (USB, iPod or AUX), just need to press the Next Track button to switch between them.

I did a little test today, removing the cooling thermostat and refitting a gutted one for extra flow. It still hit 90 degrees oil and water, is there any way to cool these VQ's down? It did drop temps by a few degrees but nothing major, it was definitely more stable though after a squirt.

Next attempt might be relocating the oil and trans coolers to the sides of the front bar instead of blocking the radiator, using the fog-light holes as air ducts.

Modded my rb25 intake pipe with the metal insert and found some response when overtaking higher gears (more torque) didn't expect anything to happen really quite happy. Would making a full metal one be any better then this mod?

The intake can suck shut approaching 200kw, sleeving the accordion section will help keep it open, but it will still suck the lower bend in approaching 250kw.

I make an alloy 80mm intake if you are interested, with bov/breather fittings to keep the stock look. Otherwise just find a competent fabricator close by to make one up. It will only improve power and response, well worth the small cost.

The intake can suck shut approaching 200kw, sleeving the accordion section will help keep it open, but it will still suck the lower bend in approaching 250kw.

Sounds great mate how much?

I make an alloy 80mm intake if you are interested, with bov/breather fittings to keep the stock look. Otherwise just find a competent fabricator close by to make one up. It will only improve power and response, well worth the small cost.

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