Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

The cam tensioners take a fair while to fill with pressure once re-assembled, that would have been the noise you heard. Nothing to worry about unless it doesn't go away. The workshop manual says to rev it to 3k and hold it for 5 minutes to bleed the tensioners. The valve gear has solid buckets, some are shimmed and some aren't.

If it's hard to start, try a new battery first. If you still have issues, is there an engine light up? Most of the faults will throw a code.

This sounds like it might be the cause. i've just noticed that i've got a slight oil leak so am having to track that first and sort it out. found one of the 22 bolts for the front cover one wasnt tightened all the way. so will re check them all again and clean it up hopefully sort that out. and then bleed the tensioners cause 3k for 5 min with a oil leak might not be a good idea.

as for the battery when i connect up a jumper pack i still have the same issue. but jumper leads to a vehicle the issue is still there just not as bad.

there was a timing fault that came back before the chain but thought that was cause of the chain needing replacement. might be a good idea to run a diagnostic again?

This sounds like it might be the cause. i've just noticed that i've got a slight oil leak so am having to track that first and sort it out. found one of the 22 bolts for the front cover one wasnt tightened all the way. so will re check them all again and clean it up hopefully sort that out. and then bleed the tensioners cause 3k for 5 min with a oil leak might not be a good idea.

as for the battery when i connect up a jumper pack i still have the same issue. but jumper leads to a vehicle the issue is still there just not as bad.

there was a timing fault that came back before the chain but thought that was cause of the chain needing replacement. might be a good idea to run a diagnostic again?

clearing the ecu faults and cleaning and the throttle re-learning procedure probably wouldn't hurt too

thanks for all the help. have read that sometimes the passengers cas fault code doesnt come up sometimes?

also how many liters of oil does a engine normally take?

EDIT: sorry done a google search and it lead me back to SAU with the figure 5lts.

Edited by projects

Also i'm now having a starting issue which i thought the timing was out from the chain, but with that replaced its still hard to start. I'm wondering if its a faulty sensor or if the starter and everything is drawing to much current from a slightly old battery. Would the ecu or learnt that with the old chain and timing been so far out to drive like that. and now its back to factory it cannot start properly?

Hi and welcome to the forum. Have you looked at the intake & plenum for carbon build up? Apparently this is a bit of an issue on the non-turbo stageas due to the direct injection, there was a thread on the v35 section of this site with pictures that showed significant build up after far less KMs than are on yours. I seem to remember someone cleaning it and finding that the car ran a lot smoother and also started on the first crank. Probably worth checking out.

Dale spec front brace.

All I can say is WTFBBQHKS.... combined with swaybars and the bushes the car has awoken. turns in soo sharply.

Imagine all the hard parking I can do now xD.

Make a very nice difference aye!!!

Well this months budget thanks to Jetwreck is ruined., he is a bad influence haha. But I would be 100% to grab one 15th of next month once I'm paid again

So not a massive rush but would love one then

Edited by Brick

Ha, it's wet today and I have to pick my GF from the airport so ganna be super fun!

Make a very nice difference aye!!!


Everything adds up. All I need now are my shocks and spring and wrap mah rims in some decent rubber and I'll be glued.

Well this months budget thanks to Jetwreck is ruined., he is a bad influence haha. But I would be 100% to grab one 15th of next month once I'm paid again

So not a massive rush but would love one then

HA! yea he can easily spend all your money! But he's also good at saving you money. I wanted to buy a whole set of bushes he talked me out of it and said just buy caster ones and I'll be sweet. Saved probably $200? Or more.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The team at OBD2 Australia are pretty good, shoot them an email and ask them. I've dealt with them before for work stuff. I'd be shocked if it didn't work, so long as Consult can activate the ABS. But you might need to use KLine for it which would be the stopper, as I don't think that piece does KLine comms.
    • Yeah and hence my ghetto way of slamming the brakes, get the ABS to cycle, rebleed seems to be a sensible workaround.
    • Hey! Happy to help. Nothing inherently wrong with the adapter, it's more so with Brett Collins himself. He gave me a lot of incorrect information when I was in contact with him and was extremely rude when I challenged him. He stated I could not use any aftermarket twin plate clutches except for his own, not to use the dush shield, bla bla bla and it was all BS.  Collins stated to cut roughly 14mm's off the housing, I took off 15mm to make room for the dust shield. I would confirm with whatever adapter manufacturer you're using. 
    • There's plenty of OEM steering arms that are bolted on. Not in the same fashion/orientation as that one, to be sure, but still. Examples of what I'm thinking of would use holes like the ones that have the downward facing studs on the GTR uprights (down the bottom end, under the driveshaft opening, near the lower balljoint) and bolt a steering arm on using only 2 bolts that would be somewhat similarly in shear as these you're complainig about. I reckon old Holdens did that, and I've never seen a broken one of those.
    • Let's be honest, most of the people designing parts like the above, aren't engineers. Sometimes they come from disciplines that gives them more qualitative feel for design than quantitive, however, plenty of them have just picked up a license to Fusion and started making things. And that's the honest part about the majority of these guys making parts like that, they don't have huge R&D teams and heaps of time or experience working out the numbers on it. Shit, most smaller teams that do have real engineers still roll with "yeah, it should be okay, and does the job, let's make them and just see"...   The smaller guys like KiwiCNC, aren't the likes of Bosch etc with proper engineering procedures, and oversights, and sign off. As such, it's why they can produce a product to market a lot quicker, but it always comes back to, question it all.   I'm still not a fan of that bolt on piece. Why not just machine it all in one go? With the right design it's possible. The only reason I can see is if they want different heights/length for the tie rod to bolt to. And if they have the cncs themselves,they can easily offer that exact feature, and just machine it all in one go. 
×
×
  • Create New...