Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

???? Never touched an engine ??? Any tuner worth there salt will be able to tune , it's a base set or rules ! Or are our vq's that temperamental? It's not like having an 800+rwkw car with a stand alone ecu that you would want tuned by a specialist ie.. Like a vl and breschani. It's a piggy back comp and a tune,

I'm just surprised that's all not waning to put any ones nose out of joint

???? Never touched an engine ??? Any tuner worth there salt will be able to tune , it's a base set or rules ! Or are our vq's that temperamental? It's not like having an 800+rwkw car with a stand alone ecu that you would want tuned by a specialist ie.. Like a vl and breschani. It's a piggy back comp and a tune,

I'm just surprised that's all not waning to put any ones nose out of joint

It has taken Cihan 40 or 50 tunes to work out how to setup the EMU properly. This isn't a Nistuned RB we are talking about. There have only been 10 or 12 VQ25det's tuned in Aus so far.

???? Never touched an engine ??? Any tuner worth there salt will be able to tune , it's a base set or rules ! Or are our vq's that temperamental? It's not like having an 800+rwkw car with a stand alone ecu that you would want tuned by a specialist ie.. Like a vl and breschani. It's a piggy back comp and a tune,

I'm just surprised that's all not waning to put any ones nose out of joint

See your own Sig. :P

yeah, its a bit tricky to get a Ecu that adjusts so many parameters to work efficiently with such a shitty tuning tool that is EManage.

On Friday I borrowed a mates patrol (which is so much fun to drive), collected a car trailer and towed my S1 up to the Transmission shop. 45 minutes after leaving he called me to tell me that there was bits of clutch and metal in the sump and would be taking the gearbox out today for inspection and stripping it down..

at 2pm I get a phone call saying that IIRC the 3rd and 4th clutch packs have blown, snapped band, worn solenoid and wobbly bearings.

seems when I bought the car it all felt lovely and nice but I now suspect that the fresh fluid in the gearbox was a quick fix to keep it running and able to sell it..

but never mind, the car should be back before the weekend and will have all new clutches, bands, a shift kit and recon'd torque converter :)

stagea_zpscfcd356d.jpg

Sorting threw the " will haves " "mine will do's "

"im gonna make 6000hp's" not to forget the "were happy to try tune your setup to host xyz mods" cowboy tuners/mechanics. Could require much

MOre than time to waist not to mention throw away $$$...

So it seemed simple clear and logical to me.

Scott from day 1 has had outstanding customer service a real encyclopaedia of knowledge based on nm35 vq25det alone.

Help , information costs money 9 x out of 10 scotts certainly spoken fact from fiction every time even when ones ideas float all over the place.

Conclusion...

Drive to vic & back easy

some folk cruise that distance over a weekend with there hand grenade half assed tuned pride and joy

Ill support the bloke that will enjoy getting the best out of someone elses ride.

Cheers bloke

..

Yeah I totally agree there are a lot of cowboys and shit tuners, out there, there are also are some guys who give a shit still, and there are a lot of ppl who do the "mine will make and mine will do this". That's why I only post up figs that have achieved, and realistic ones not ones that are made then engine goes bang, but ones that are driven on all the time, ... No grenade tunes here.

Also I understand the limited capabilities of the emanage ultimate I ran and played around tuning one on my c34 definitely not the best thing I've used hence whilst in in the shed as a paper weight.

Also leaves a dilemma for me as if I deem the m35 worth while of power modification I would be taking a different root than normal requiring a good tuneable Ecu ,and a fair bit of custom work but hey that's what I love doing .

up nice and early today and up to knox automatics to collect my stagea, full gearbox rebuild including torque converter and stage 2 shift kit.. WOW is all I can say :)

Picked up a dolphin carbon fiber/fiberglass vented bonnet. It gets sprayed factory black to match the car tomorrow!! Also picked up some D1 Sanko bonnet pins which are getting installed as well :) very excited to see how it looks!!!

1) Purchased a set of factory hids and installed them with 8000k bulbs which are too dim for me so I purchased another set of 4300k and will install them once they arrive.

2) Replaced the driverside headlight tilt motor. Just have to fine tune it tonight when its a bit darker.

3) Installed the aftermarket afm I bought from scotty to trial (oem still good)

4) Replaced the coilpack tube that was found to have a hole in it.

Took car for a test drive with new afm and she dont like it. On full boost there is a rev cut/dip with it unlike the oem one. I will put the oem one back in tomorrow and see if it goes away.

Took car for a test drive with new afm and she dont like it. On full boost there is a rev cut/dip with it unlike the oem one. I will put the oem one back in tomorrow and see if it goes away.

They do seem to run a little richer on boost than OEM, I suspect they have a slightly different airflow/Voltage curve. Only the modified cars seem to display the rich running, at least it's better than lean mixtures I guess. Did you reset the ecu before fitting it Josh?

The problem is the 'replacement' Nissan AFM's run much the same as these, and only last a short time in comparison, (something gets damaged inside at full noise for some reason.) I have yet to hear of a failure from these aftermarket afm's, and the price is much more reasonable.

Gives you a good reason to tune the car Josh. :P

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • There's plenty of OEM steering arms that are bolted on. Not in the same fashion/orientation as that one, to be sure, but still. Examples of what I'm thinking of would use holes like the ones that have the downward facing studs on the GTR uprights (down the bottom end, under the driveshaft opening, near the lower balljoint) and bolt a steering arm on using only 2 bolts that would be somewhat similarly in shear as these you're complainig about. I reckon old Holdens did that, and I've never seen a broken one of those.
    • Let's be honest, most of the people designing parts like the above, aren't engineers. Sometimes they come from disciplines that gives them more qualitative feel for design than quantitive, however, plenty of them have just picked up a license to Fusion and started making things. And that's the honest part about the majority of these guys making parts like that, they don't have huge R&D teams and heaps of time or experience working out the numbers on it. Shit, most smaller teams that do have real engineers still roll with "yeah, it should be okay, and does the job, let's make them and just see"...   The smaller guys like KiwiCNC, aren't the likes of Bosch etc with proper engineering procedures, and oversights, and sign off. As such, it's why they can produce a product to market a lot quicker, but it always comes back to, question it all.   I'm still not a fan of that bolt on piece. Why not just machine it all in one go? With the right design it's possible. The only reason I can see is if they want different heights/length for the tie rod to bolt to. And if they have the cncs themselves,they can easily offer that exact feature, and just machine it all in one go. 
    • The roof is wrapped
    • This is how I last did this when I had a master cylinder fail and introduce air. Bleed before first stage, go oh shit through first stage, bleed at end of first stage, go oh shit through second stage, bleed at end of second stage, go oh shit through third stage, bleed at end of third stage, go oh shit through fourth stage, bleed at lunch, go oh shit through fifth stage, bleed at end of fifth stage, go oh shit through sixth stage....you get the idea. It did come good in the end. My Topdon scan tool can bleed the HY51 and V37, but it doesn't have a consult connector and I don't have an R34 to check that on. I think finding a tool in an Australian workshop other than Nissan that can bleed an R34 will be like rocking horse poo. No way will a generic ODB tool do it.
    • Hmm. Perhaps not the same engineers. The OE Nissan engineers did not forsee a future with spacers pushing the tie rod force application further away from the steering arm and creating that torque. The failures are happening since the advent of those things, and some 30 years after they designed the uprights. So latent casting deficiencies, 30+ yrs of wear and tear, + unexpected usage could quite easily = unforeseen failure. Meanwhile, the engineers who are designing the billet CNC or fabricated uprights are also designing, for the same parts makers, the correction tie rod ends. And they are designing and building these with motorsport (or, at the very least, the meth addled antics of drifters) in mind. So I would hope (in fact, I would expect) that their design work included the offset of that steering force. Doesn't mean that it is not totally valid to ask the question of them, before committing $$.
×
×
  • Create New...