Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Installed a JJR oil cooler and relocation kit today, replacing the Greddy oil relocation kit I had. The JJR kit has proper AN fittings, the Greddy one uses standard hose clamps.

post-51740-0-73448800-1389167193_thumb.jpg

post-51740-0-53362100-1389167221_thumb.jpg

post-51740-0-53963900-1389167248_thumb.jpg

post-51740-0-17446800-1389167271_thumb.jpg

post-51740-0-88753400-1389167295_thumb.jpg

post-51740-0-72808900-1389167313_thumb.jpg

I was searching around on the net for my exhaust and I found the original for sale thread from the person who imported my c34. It had a list of items and mods that seemed similar to mine so I called the number and we ended up chatting for an hour on everything that he bought and did to the car once he imported it on '08. Turns out everything was done right the first time and left all of my questions answered, I was extremely happy and he was too after hearing the car was left unchanged for soo long, and the car had been very well looked after.

Calling him was probably the best thing I have done to the car, and he had me thinking about his list of mods he was going to do, as we all know most old school info is lost in the 'archives' and ppl saying 'do a search ffs'

Knowing that your pride and joy has been in the hands of someone who knew what they were doing and loved the car is a great feeling, and knowing that you bought the car with all the parts are still there is even better. (Well the owner I bought it from pulled 2 parts just before I bought it)

  • Like 1

2014-01-13202656_zpsa2be23b2.jpg

BAM! PADDLESHIFT.

I only have one word for them... easy. Easy to install, easy to use, easy to adjust.

Longest part was modifying the plastic trim. I've still got to adjust them abit more, but they awesome!!

  • Like 2

Put in my Whiteline front and rear swaybars this afternoon. Found an oil leak from the oil cooler I put in last week, one of the hoses was a bit loose. Hopefully I have fixed that now.

Took the car for a spin tonight up to the shops. It feels different from before a little. I might take it for a good strap in a day or two in the Hills. I also want to try out my new GoPro too.

i'd like to continue showing Russian fabrication if it is allowed to puplic such dirty cars (we have annoying dirt on all-the-road surface)

finished with exhaust parts with V-band clamps

flange during fitting

7ef69c4s-960.jpg

42f69c4s-960.jpg

1af69c4s-960.jpg

6f69c4s-960.jpg

82f69c4s-960.jpg

  • Like 1

i still run oem-like IMPUL ECU.

leks-auto(probably, you know him) runs F-con

others run stock-like nismo, impul, mines

now lookig for decision on this field, cause have lots of plans on the car. mechanical fabrication is easy with good team, but our ECU is a piece of hedache..

this affects M35's only

we already have 2001 axis with vq35de swapped on stock vq25det loom&injectors&afm&ecu (hydravlical cam's controllers are re-pinned, and they are controlled almoust correctly), this car extremely needs in ecu, mine is also waiting in bigger turbo, but we are at loss in this question... may be there is a thread in ECU replacement?

as for me, i plan to install Halteck platinum 2000 in piggy-back style, to save A/C and so on

the main problem is in AT - once it loose AFM signal, it is going to be mad, loosing plate's pression, lack of clutch in it during recievig big torque from engine - overwear in minutes.

i don't know what to do with this.

may be you have already solved, how to trick it?

Nope, we haven't got a good ecu option either. People use nismo, Impul etc stock ecus. We have cans with emanage piggy backs, we have a few FCon cars too.

I did have success with Uprev with the series 2 cars, and that can now be used to re flash for NA or Turbo applications on the vq35de.

Any cars made 1/4 mile times in Russia?

it's an awful lack of dragstrips now - so we don't have proved times at all, also our community is times smaller than yours - so legal drag is just for rich men, illegal street racing is not my choice)

i'm official in Russiam Drift Series, it is prohibited by our rules, to race on streets in any kind

we have web-site with the only legal drag group - http://www.dragtimes.ru/en/results/allresults#quarterofmile

there is one Stagea :whistling:

at the same time - our government almost prohibited to buy used cars abroad by huge taxes, so far away we will loose wonderful JDM cars at common

uprev is good for vq35 - we have one CPV35 skyline on vq25det kit with bigger turbo, it is nicely driven with LHD oem later ecu from z33, and owner tells it is ultimatively versatile and reliable, your right

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The rain is the best time to push to the edge of the grip limit. Water lubrication reduces the consumption of rubber without reducing the fun. I take pleasure in driving around the outside of numpties in Audis, WRXs, BRZs, etc, because they get all worried in the wet. They warm up faster than the engine oil does.
    • When they're dead cold, and in the wet, they're not very fun. RE003 are alright, they do harden very quickly and turn into literally $50 Pace tyres.
    • Yeah, I thought that Reedy's video was quite good because he compared old and new (as in, well used and quite new) AD09s, with what is generally considered to be the fast Yokohama in this category (ie, sporty road/track tyres) and a tyre that people might be able to use to extend the comparo out into the space of more expensive European tyres, being the Cup 2. No-one would ever agree that the Cup 2 is a poor tyre - many would suggest that it is close to the very top of the category. And, for them all to come out so close to each other, and for the cheaper tyre in the test to do so well against the others, in some cases being even faster, shows that (good, non-linglong) tyres are reaching a plateau in terms of how good they can get, and they're all sitting on that same plateau. Anyway, on the AD08R, AD09, RS4 that I've had on the car in recent years, I've never had a problem in the cold and wet. SA gets down to 0-10°C in winter. Not so often, but it was only 4°C when I got in the car this morning. Once the tyres are warm (ie, after about 2km), you can start to lay into them. I've never aquaplaned or suffered serious off-corner understeer or anything like that in the wet, that I would not have expected to happen with a more normal tyre. I had some RE003s, and they were shit in the dry, shit in the wet, shit everywhere. I would rate the RS4 and AD0x as being more trustworthy in the wet, once the rubber is warm. Bridgestone should be ashamed of the RE003.
    • This is why I gave the disclaimer about how I drive in the wet which I feel is pretty important. I have heard people think RS4's are horrible in the rain, but I have this feeling they must be driving (or attempting to drive) anywhere close to the grip limit. I legitimately drive at the speed limit/below speed the limit 100% of the time in the rain. More than happy to just commute along at 50kmh behind a train of cars in 5th gear etc. I do agree with you with regards to the temp and the 'quality' of the tyre Dose. Most UHP tyres aren't even up to temperature on the road anyway, even when going mad initial D canyon carving. It would be interesting to see a not-up-to-temp UHP tyre compared against a mere... normal...HP tyre at these temperatures. I don't think you're (or me in this case) is actually picking up grip with an RS4/AD09 on the road relative to something like a RE003 because the RS4/AD09 is not up to temp and the RE003 is closer to it's optimal operating window.
    • Either the bearing has been installed backwards OR the gearbox input shaft bearing is loosey goosey.   When in doubt, just put in a Samsonas in.
×
×
  • Create New...