Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Looks good Erop! Any significantly measurable drops in temperature?

I popped another OEM AFM yesterday (I think that's my third?), I was only 1km from home though - so not too far to limp it. I fortunately had one of Scottys 'after market' units on hand so I swapped that in & it was happy days. Haven't bothered to clear the code yet, but its driving fine ;)

i've never got issues in overheating even with old configuration, coolant temp never exceeded 93 C (as it was set on PWM controller - it has predicting algorythm, which turns fans on with low speed 5 degrees before, them pushing them to work harder), so i expect only decreasing time of fans to work.

we have really hot summer just in 2 month ) now we are going to fall in cold winter)

  • Like 1

More a case of what someone else did to my Stagea. Couple weeks ago an elderly driver decided to conduct a rear impact test, unfortunately while I was still inside it!

Was in 100km/h zone stopped at big que of roundabout traffic. Was a big hit, I reckon close to 100, no brake marks, but firefighter mate reckons damage more consistant with 70k impact.

Bit of mild whiplash for me, car bent vertically and to the left, photos don't show how bad it is.

Drivers door opened ok, passenger little tight, didn't bother trying the others. Airbags didn't deploy as stopped but did get pushed into towbar of car in front.

Had only just left home, less than 2km away, other drivers all local too!

Been written off, lucky full insurance as he had none.

Bit annoyed as really happy with the car, bought few years ago with 70,000km and looked after, good oil etc, planned lot more years out of it as I tend to keep my cars/bikes for long periods.

Had my mountain bike laying down in the back, it hit the roof so hard it twisted the bar mount on the stem about 25 degrees. He hit me fairly square then slid underneath slightly.

Blew 350NZD about six months ago for new centre brake light LED too...

post-62258-0-26726000-1415999659_thumb.jpg

post-62258-0-41255000-1415999661_thumb.jpg

post-62258-0-14295300-1415999663_thumb.jpg

post-62258-0-17495400-1415999666_thumb.jpg

post-62258-0-33674500-1415999668_thumb.jpg

Wow hope u are alright. looks like it has had a left hand Qatar put on it at some stage! Doesn't look that bad for the speed u got hit

Neck muscles were tad sore next day, think would have fared worse if not as fit from my mountain bike nd motorbike riding.

Not too familiar with car damage, I suppose what you are saying explains that rip/failure in panel by window. Not aware of any previous damage, first NZ owner, bought from dealer and was mint condition around.

The other car had heavy frontal damage, fully folded bonnet and dumped all his engine oil on road.

Fitted A1RM pads to the stagea today. Made such an impressive difference stops on a dime now, which I was hoping as I recently installed 32 GTR calipers front and rear with slotted rotor wich made a big difference but now combined with the qfm pads it's amazing how fast it pulls up. Don't think I'll go back to using any other pads after feeling the effects they have made :-)

  • Like 4

changed wheels to WINTER mode - don't know, if you heard of it, but i use studded wheels)

gp sports gullflame gravity

9.5+15 18"

this wheels are really RARE 18's , which may work with Akebono BBK - it's diameter in front is a real problem - even BNR34 wheels can't fit it!

245/50 tyres

rear fenders rolled

nismo s-tune springs&shocks

5a4349cs-960.jpg

180349cs-960.jpgf40349cs-960.jpg

678349cs-960.jpg

i don't like black colour of wheels, but it is as in is) thinking on grille replacement

  • Like 5

wow not surprised they are a tight fit....I run 245/45/18 and they rub a little on full lock, 245/50 is even larger....

my 245s don't rub at all. Maybe it's an offset issue causing your rub.

Got a call from the bloke from Boostworx who has had my M35 for about a week and a half now.

He is putting the final touches on the tune making sure he is happy with it and i should be right to pick it up tomorrow.

Fun times ahead :yes:

  • Like 3

Got a call from the bloke from Boostworx who has had my M35 for about a week and a half now.

He is putting the final touches on the tune making sure he is happy with it and i should be right to pick it up tomorrow.

Fun times ahead :yes:

Very interested in this!

Ok so I just picked the Stagea up and the difference is amazing.

I was prepared for the lag as i have been for a ride in an auto Ceffy with about 250-odd rwkw's and after about 30 mins driving i already found myself having a heavier right foot then i was use to having to compensate. Driving in traffic the car spent most of its time off boost completely and it was only till i hit the southern expressway that i was able to have a quick squirt. The thing sounds pretty awesome as it comes on boost now and feels a lot smoother than it use too when you back off.

I'll get the dyno reading up soon but for now here is the before and after

Before - 147.8 kw

After - 243.0 kw

On 98 pump fuel

What was added was ss2 Hypergear highflow, 725cc injectors, 3 inch intake, Greddy emanage ultimate and greddy profecboost controller, Trans cooler.

I'll report back in once i've had a chance to drive it for a few weeks.

Cheers guys

post-104324-0-05157500-1417070090_thumb.jpg

Edited by Beregron
  • Like 2

Wow those are some impressive numbers mate how much did it cost you all up bud?

I had more work done than just the tuning / few mods but if you said $3000-$3500 give or take a bit you'd be fairly close. Keeping in mind this is the first Emanage the bloke had done on an M35 so problem solving had to be done along the way.

Oh, and that's not including the cost of said mods.

Edited by Beregron

Yeah I was looking into doing the same mods as you just listed so it was max 3.5k all up that's good mate and was that through boostworx? Looking for a goid tuner in the Sydney area to help me out with this. Cheers bud

Yeah I was looking into doing the same mods as you just listed so it was max 3.5k all up that's good mate and was that through boostworx? Looking for a goid tuner in the Sydney area to help me out with this. Cheers bud

Worth trekking up the coast to dvs jez Nathan.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I certainly fall into the annoyed camp, but glad to hear that if it's happening at low boost then I'm not likely going to blow a turbo and end up with metal shards in my oil. Just feels like it prevents me from really driving it without hesitation and "peak" performance. Wonder if it's the VCAM, it did an impressive job of shifting the torque curve and faster spool, but maybe now it's "too fast" and there's too much air for how open the throttle is.  Based on some other threads, will also do some reading on synchronizing the actuators. They are the default actuators that come on the Garrett's and I would think they would be set the same coming from the factory, but if the turbos don't actually work exactly the same way at the same time as previously mentioned, it would be worth making sure the actuators are actuating together properly
    • I went down this rabbit hole before, ended up sourcing a motor from the UK (I'm in Japan) which also didn't function correctly. With the original motor, I disassembled it and reassembled it and it works somewhat, sometimes. What I could deduce from all my screwing around is that there is calibration of the gears on the inside of the motor and two ramps on the main gear which activate switches that operate the motor and move the sunroof either to retract into the roof or tilt. Where I got stuck was that, it seemed in my case that one or both of the switches that are activated by the ramp on the gear did not always activate and thus the motor did not move, causing it to sometimes not retract or tilt (apologies, I've forgotten which way it didn't work.).  Of course this part is discontinued at Nissan now, it's the same part in the S15 but no other models. I also contacted the manufacturer of the component for schematics - forgot the name, they're based in Gifu - but they declined to share the information due to being bound by an NDA, sadly. Looking through my pictures now, it seems I last had a crack at this in 2022. See, I so kindly wrote "open" and "close" next to the switches. If you figure it out, please do tell me. Those little switches, with the red buttons may need to be replaced.
    • It says 300ZX, does that make it an Aus delivered car? Funny how back in the day I just couldn't care less about Z32's and these days I am just in love with them. Back when Nissan was into pushing the envelope. 🤣
    • Hi guys, just after some guidance with an R34 sunroof that has stopped working correctly. It still opens and closes perfectly fine, but it no longer tilts/vents up or down. As a result, the rear of the glass now sags a bit as it drops down slightly in order to retract into the roof, but now it can't pop upwards into a flush position. I’ve probed the pins on the back of the switch connector with a multimeter and it seems like both switches (for open/close and tilt/vent) still work correctly. Any ideas on what it could be, or where I should even start in terms of diagnosing? I'm sure someone's had this issue before but I haven't been able to find anything online relating to this specific issue, most of the issues are with the seals leaking or the motor failing entirely. Thanks in advance!
×
×
  • Create New...