Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i can currently get toluene cheaper than 98 0ctane petrol .

what are peoples thoughts on using it in cars ?

can anyone one tell me what happens if you put too much in a standard car ?

or any other knowledge .

cheers

how the hell do you get it cheaper than 98? i spent ages trying to find it cheap over here and gave up

general consensus is you shouldnt run any more than 30% in a road car, which should be more than enough to make some decent fuel when mixxed with 98

Edited by JonnoHR31

Toluene used to be very popular for making racing fuels with mixes of between 10 -30% which gave an increase in RON of about 3. It is lead free and doesn't stuff O2 sensors. It will def make your car go faster if properly tuned. I don't know if there are any longterm downsides. As to toxicity - petrol and petrol fumes already contain aromatics and are bad for your health so in all cases avoid the fumes and getting it on your skin.

I looked into it for ages. Couldnt get it just off the street. I even asked a good mate who is a professional painter to get the stuff..... no go in the volume i wanted. Cut a long sotry short.... Upgrade your fuel system to handle E85. Once that is done its cheap and getting more and more easy to get.

E85 is not available at the pumps in NZ and very expensive to get. Note OP has a supply of toluene available at a good price. Petrol is not very good for you either - no-one is planning to drink the stuff.

Surely there are some old racers out there ( and we are talking 5 -10 years ago) who can advise of any downside to Toluene as a fuel?

E85 is not available at the pumps in NZ and very expensive to get. Note OP has a supply of toluene available at a good price. Petrol is not very good for you either - no-one is planning to drink the stuff.

Surely there are some old racers out there ( and we are talking 5 -10 years ago) who can advise of any downside to Toluene as a fuel?

I used to add a 20% mix of toluene to 98. The difference was quite noticable on the dyno over straight 98. Also added some measure of insurance when drag racing. This was back in 2004-2006.

Just wear gloves when you pour it and DON"T BREATH IT IN!!! A 30% mix is about all you can get away with.

Toluene is a little harder on your fuel lines, but who cares if you replace them every 3 or 4 years!

Cheers

Justin

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Toluene Look at the list of things it will dissolve, and ask yourself what are all your fuel hoses made out of.

petrol also eats rubber, which is why you use fuel hose instead of standard rubber hoses in your fuel system.

cheers for that justin .

on a side note i do know someone that put a couple of tanks of it straight through a nx coupe . it did go alot better up top . said nx coupe was in no way maintained or tuned properly . and it still went long enough for it to be crashed into a wall .

what happens if you run 100% in an untuned car ? will it lean out and melt some ringlands ?

  • 4 weeks later...

I've ran toluene in my cars, lawn mowers, weed trimmers, etc. for years and hadn't had any problems.  Now experimenting with moth balls (real naphthalene) and carb/throttle body cleaners (ingredients appear similar to bottled octane boosters, and dissolves moth balls quickly).  I wish there was an easy and reliable way to test octane for the average person. My neighbors probably think that I am running a meth lab at home.

Direct from wiki:

"Toluene at 86% by volume fueled all the turbo Formula 1 teams in the 1980s, first pioneered by the Honda team. The remaining 14% was a "filler" of n-heptane, to reduce the octane to meet Formula 1 fuel restrictions. Toluene at 100% can be used as a fuel for both two-stroke and four-stroke engines; however, due to the density of the fuel and other factors, the fuel does not vaporize easily unless preheated to 70 degrees Celsius (Honda accomplished this in their Formula 1 cars by routing the fuel lines through the muffler system to heat the fuel). Toluene also poses similar problems as alcohol fuels, as it eats through standard rubber fuel lines and has no lubricating properties as standard gasoline does, which can break down fuel pumps and cause upper cylinder bore wear."

In other words, it does not suit Joe Blow back yarders trying to save a buck. Engine(s) cost more than fuel in the long run.

Google time.

good luck, i spent a fair bit of time looking into it a while back and couldnt find any for less than ~$10/L here in perth, which is too expensive to use as a fuel. cheaper to buy e85 drums

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...