Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

yeah, too wide. engine mounts are the easiest part.

gearbox is the problem. being a faily new motor there is nill in australia. ebay heaps. but no one wants to ship to australia.

yeah pics sucked. same camera used for the engine.... weird... cossie pistons. 8.8:1 comp. the rods are good. 480gms and rated to a conservative 200hp each. i wanted to get the wieghts close to stock to avoid and posible balance issues.

f**king gearbox shit.. if i could find a manufacturer that does custom reverse rotation front diff gears id just use my ppg..

yeah, too wide. engine mounts are the easiest part.

gearbox is the problem. being a faily new motor there is nill in australia. ebay heaps. but no one wants to ship to australia.

Google search for "usa australia freight" and you'll get heaps of results of companies that accept your mail (for a fee) then send it out of the country to you

  • 2 weeks later...

well the front diff is a 48:13 so 3.69:1 non turbo zed is 3.7 aswell. so the rear diff isnt an issue. just a gearbox.

i do need a hr auto bell housing wich is hard to find aswell. but brand new from us its 400aud + freight.

the ecu is a hurdle aswell. haltech rekon there ps 2000 will do i. (dont have the stock ecu no will i) but they have no idea about the "e-vtc" magnetic exhaust vtc cam. nor does link. i really want to use the variable exhaust timing as it will work really well with a turbo.

looking at "handbreaks" r35 build. my motor has identical engine mountings and front diff.

  • 4 weeks later...

i wish. out the front turning the drivway into a beach. then 2hrs of sweeping and scooping later...

not going awd. engine will have to be to far forward. mayby in the future when its all running and im sick of no traction..

i wish. out the front turning the drivway into a beach. then 2hrs of sweeping and scooping later...

not going awd. engine will have to be to far forward. mayby in the future when its all running and im sick of no traction..

Awwwwww boo:(

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yes. Probably, given that there is only access from the bottom end of it, go with a drill bit. Don't start too small. 7 or 8mm is probably the right size. You want something that can make a big enough hole to do some damage, but not so bit that it clashes with the steel or binds up and breaks your wrist. A slow speed is probably a good idea too. Once the rubber is destroyed, you then have to get the crush tube off the stud, which will be the whole heat/oil/cutting exercise all over again, but this time with the need to strictly avoid damaging the stud (any further than the corrosion might already have done.
    • We replaced the connector just because we could and it was still there, once we swapped the injectors around it stopped. The injectors were something I had thoughts of replacing even before I first started the engine and in hindsight I should have 
    • Not too sure just yet, want to have a go at doing what I can myself, but to start with want someone to cast their eye over it tell me what needs doing to get it running and back on the road, so anyone with great overall knowledge would be ideal.
    • I personally would go with cutting out the rubber. Then deal with getting sleeve off separately. Rubber can be painful to cut, it loves to jam up cutting tools. I normally have success with drill bits, deburr bits, angle grinders, jigsaw, reciprocating saw, and never forget... fire. Obviously different tools won't work in all locations you're trying to work with, and you need to be comfortable with each. You personally may be happy slowly slicing it out with a razor blade, if you are, go for it with one too! Feel free to wait for others to weigh in also on their thoughts.
    • So ... I got everything disconnected and started dropping the frame. Three of the four mounts started to come down but the fourth one (the one with the nut that gave me all the trouble) won't budge. The inner metal sleeve stays up tight against the chassis rail although the outer part of the mount drops a bit (and can be levered quite a lot more) but it's just stretching the rubber bushing. So I reckon there's some serious corrosion inside the inner sleeve and holding it tight to the lug at the top of the bolt. Tried everything I can think of so far: penetrating oil, whacking the top of the sleeve to vibrate it and wedge a screwdriver blade in there. I also tried to turn the inner sleeve a bit by hitting it with a chisel at the bottom. It's stuck solid. What do you think about cutting the rubber with a blade so I can drop the subframe around it anyway. Then worry about getting the inner sleeve off after? Will that work? Is it gonna give me even more problems?
×
×
  • Create New...