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I have drilled the manifold flanges out with a 8mm bit. Will see how they fit on the studs when I get home. Should be fine if the holes are in the correct position as 8mm is a close fit.

Here is the list of fittings I ordered to do the Water lines.

I already have M14x1.5 to -6AN adapters in the turbo housing so you would need 2 of those to. I got mine from MTQ turbo's here in Adelaide

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Edited by BoostdR

turbo to mani flange yeah ? bolt slides through the turb flange and then screws into the threaded mani flange. then u can screw the nut on the end of that :nyaanyaa: does that not make sense ??

Makes sense... But why you would do it doesn't, not necessary. Would rather shear a bolt with a nut than a bolt in a threaded hole in a manifold! Nasty!

So the 45's come out of each turbo(needed to clear the actuator rod) then both lines go into the Tee(one with a straight connector and the other with the 90) Then out the other side of the tee with a straight connect to line to another straight connecter to the barb adaptor and into the OEM 10mm ID pipe.

I will re route the original hard pipe boost and vac line with some silicon.

Now that I have drilled out the manifolds I will be able to bolt up the turbo's and dummy fit up my hard pipes. I reallllly hope they go on without the need of modification. Will let you know....with more pics of course. :thumbsup:

My power steering resevoir will need to be moved however.

Edited by BoostdR

I had to enlarge the flange holes to 9mm to fit correctly.

The front Dump pipe O2 sensor also doesn't fit as it fowls on the manifold

My hard pipe kit does fit, I am also using an Apexi Z32 adaptor pipe kit...but will have to check if the filters still fit in the engine bay

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You wouldn't really want the outlet pipes that close to the manifold tube anyway though ye?

Total custom piping required to move it as far as possible unless you plan to run a sheet inbetween?

I will be running heat wrap on the manifolds and make up a deflector sheild with tags that are held on by the hose clamps in that area. Not interested in reinventing the wheel -->Cast alloy pipes are a pain to weld. I may be able to get some more clearance by rotating the rear turbo compressor housing. Pretty sure its already close to max clockwise rotation available however.

Now I have to decide what to do with the pipes. Crinkle black with black silicon or as is with black silicon... :huh:

Edited by BoostdR

Just another thought....my bonnet clearance will be awefully close with the RB30's height considering the timing cover doesn't fit under...from what I can see it actually won't fit with the height of the top pipe. Will have to have a closer look at that. :ermm:

Alot of messing about, I'm a thought 6boost would have trail fitted them before they started selling them. Owell hopfully you get the gains your after, they sure would look nice ceramic coated.

Are you sure you didn't just get a slightly different set?

I was always under the impression that they just bolted up and away you go as I don't think we have heard of these type of issues from others who have use them.

I have always thought of buying a used set if/when they come up for sale as they look like a great product.

Kyle pointed out I would have most of these issues as it was the only way to make a decent collector. The idea of this thread is to identify a step by step installation guide and to outline the outlay versus performance gain.

They will be heat wrapped never the less. There close proximity to the rocker cover and hard pipe we induce too much radiant heat even ceramic coated.

Matt

Matt

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