Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Wrapping them in heat tape does void the warranty with 6boost. Also when i had mine heat wrapped i had silicon joiner close to manifold like your hard piping, burnt straight through the joiner, i would be looking at modify that piping more or finding something you can wrap the piping in to prevent it burning out.

  • Replies 161
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

yeah just lay a piece of heat reflective material over the silicone joiner that is close to the mani. that will protect it.

the mani's look very nice mate. hope they give some good gains. I think they will.

like this stuff. pic if of my old GTR set-up. the boys added heaps of the stuff for me to protect hoses etc. I was running HKS turbos on tomei mani's with tomei dumps.

post-3621-0-12896500-1299731109_thumb.jpg

plus you can see even with the tomei manis and dumps the front turbo dump is VERY close to the rear turbo compressor inlet. I used the trust piping kit which is nice as the rear inlet is cast and then also had the dump pipe wrapped to help.

post-3621-0-47453000-1299731193_thumb.jpg

here's the hard pipe kit I used. it's my favourite (have used it and the HKS one like yours) but unfortunately I don't think it would work with your mani's and with the RB30 it would all end up too high.

post-3621-0-69870500-1299731340_thumb.jpg

like this stuff. pic if of my old GTR set-up. the boys added heaps of the stuff for me to protect hoses etc. I was running HKS turbos on tomei mani's with tomei dumps.

post-3621-0-12896500-1299731109_thumb.jpg

plus you can see even with the tomei manis and dumps the front turbo dump is VERY close to the rear turbo compressor inlet. I used the trust piping kit which is nice as the rear inlet is cast and then also had the dump pipe wrapped to help.

post-3621-0-47453000-1299731193_thumb.jpg

here's the hard pipe kit I used. it's my favourite (have used it and the HKS one like yours) but unfortunately I don't think it would work with your mani's and with the RB30 it would all end up too high.

post-3621-0-69870500-1299731340_thumb.jpg

I was using the same manifolds and dumps. Still going with the tomei Dumps.

I plan on using a piece of OEM heat sheild. The multi layer with ceramic internal. Your hard pipe kit definately won't fit. I checked my clearance today and my kit will fit under the bonnet..by a very small margin.

I have heat wrapped the manifolds and prettied them up with some black therma-tec spray. I have to remove the head to reduce the oil restrictor down to 1mm, then will complete the installation.

Matt

Edited by BoostdR
  • 2 weeks later...

prob another week or so guys, depends when my delivery from the States arrives. Was sent on the 20th so hopefully not to far away.

Matt

hoping to fill the mid range in a little. Note this is Flywheel

post-49288-0-99180000-1300934334_thumb.jpg

Edited by BoostdR

My low mount 6boost manifold comes extremely close to the rocker covers and mine are painted in two pack paint and the mani is ceramic coated and i havnt had any issues with the paint so far. Im only running a single 35/40 though. The best thing you will get out of these manifolds is the noise haha! oh and the performance gain of course.

considering he already had sizeable lowmount manifolds (aftermarket) before this, i'd be surprised is there was a major exhaust note alteration.

jury is still out on the performance side as well.

3 pages, we need results :D

Guys,

didn't feel like this warranted starting it's own thread.

250kw GT3076 0.82 with 50mm ext gate welded on to stock manifold... screamer pipe, decat 3" turboback

If I get a 6boost manifold, would that make much difference at all to my setup?

I wouldn't bother at your power level. The OEM manifold is a good thing up to 300rwkw

Its always good to have a read of these type of threads so we can get some real world feedback.

Looking forward to seeing the back to back dyno test results, we don't get to see back to back testing often enough...even for our own liking!

As for the stock manifolds on RB25 being good for up too 300rwkw, while we don't disagree with that comment we have seen GT3076R's spool up to 400rpm sooner on RB25's and make slightly more power also with back to back testing.

Most of our RB25 customers running GT3076R's see upwards of 300rwkw on 18psi. Not sure what your 250rwkw was made on...but it might help :-)

Matt

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ok i will get those 310mm. I found one but on a different site. This is the description on those...is it ok? Technical parameters: - Axle: front. - Disc type: ventilated. - Number of holes: 5. - Disc diameter: 310mm. - Total height with center: 54mm. - Thickness (new/min.): 30/28mm. - Designed for brake calipers manufacturer: Sumitomo.
    • You Gregged a whole racetrack!?
    • Look for broken wire or bad connector at the motor. Might not be it, but is worth starting there, as it is easy.
    • Hi everyone, I’m having an issue with my R32 GT-R. Sometimes, when the car goes over a bump or experiences some vibration, the 4WD warning light comes on the dashboard. When I check the code from the control unit in the trunk, it shows Code 19 – ETS Motor. However, everything seems to be working fine — if I turn off the engine and restart the car, the light goes away and everything functions normally. Has anyone experienced this before? Where should I start troubleshooting this issue? Thanks in advance!
    • I'm back from the dyno - again! I went looking for someone who knew LS's and had a roller dyno, to see how it shaped up compared to everything else and confirm the powerband really is peaking where Mr Mamo says it should. TLDR: The dyno result I got this time definitely had the shape of how it feels on the road and finally 'makes sense'. Also we had a bit more time to play with timing on the dyno, it turns out the common practice in LS is to lower the timing around peak torque and restore it to max after. So given a car was on the dyno and mostly dialled in already, it was time for tweaking. Luis at APS is definitely knowledgable when it came to this and had overlays ready to go and was happy to share. If you map out your cylinder airmass you start seeing graphs that look a LOT like the engine's torque curve. The good thing also is if you map out your timing curve when you're avoiding knock... this curve very much looks like the inverse of the airmass curve. The result? Well it's another 10.7kw/14hp kw from where I drove it in at. Pretty much everywhere, too. As to how much this car actually makes in Hub Dyno numbers, American Dyno numbers, or Mainline dyno numbers, I say I don't know and it's gone up ~25kw since I started tinkering lol. It IS interesting how the shorter ratio gears I have aren't scaled right on this dyno - 6840RPM is 199KMH, not 175KMH. I have also seen other printouts here with cars with less mods at much higher "kmh" for their RPM due Commodores having 3.45's or longer (!) rear diff ratios maxing out 4th gear which is the 1:1 gear on the T56. Does this matter? No, not really. The real answer is go to the strip and see what it traps, but: I guess I should have gone last Sunday...
×
×
  • Create New...