Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hahahaha still laughing about it, such a good day

Wouldnt have happened if he had the lifejacket on! You couldnt have got your head close enough to the engine bay with that stupid thing on :P

I know why it couldnt be fixed, you were to busy pulling some idiots black 32 out of the sand :whistling:

Lololol well yes you did manage to take up some precious time :P jks

I agree, hard pipes are a better idea but welding a bend to the turbo makes it almost impossible to sell. Straight joiners on a cast alloy 90 may be a little better but it will limit your power as the internal diameter is much smaller.

I was running 40psi through mine, 2 inches from the maifold. Perhaps yours is just too close, can you spin the housing a little?

There are some great heat insulating and heat reflection products out there these days, no need to change the setup imo.

I run a 45deg silicon bend exactly the same as yours, on the track punishing it for 20 mins at a time running 21psi it was fine. Has held up to two of those track days now. But as scotty said, mine sits probably 4-5 inches from exhaust manifold and has zero issues.

I agree, hard pipes are a better idea but welding a bend to the turbo makes it almost impossible to sell. Straight joiners on a cast alloy 90 may be a little better but it will limit your power as the internal diameter is much smaller.

I was running 40psi through mine, 2 inches from the maifold. Perhaps yours is just too close, can you spin the housing a little?

There are some great heat insulating and heat reflection products out there these days, no need to change the setup imo.

I dont think resale is an issue as i am so happy with the results and performance i dare so i wont feel the need to change :)

Ill try the alloy elbow off the housing as i dont want to restrict any performance!

Good point about rotating the housing, that is something i hadnt thought of and will have a look, could be possible even if its just a bit...

I run a 45deg silicon bend exactly the same as yours, on the track punishing it for 20 mins at a time running 21psi it was fine. Has held up to two of those track days now. But as scotty said, mine sits probably 4-5 inches from exhaust manifold and has zero issues.

Yep so i think mine is too close to the mani for one as i can only just get my hand between it.

Ill just get it welded up and do it right this time i think! I need to eliminate any potential problems!

So the car has its new home and i will try get my tools and stuff across there on the weekend! I think the shed will need its own build thread so i can come up with some designs... At this stage i am working on something like this -

Then maybe i should coat this white and do the white writing on the tyres? :rofl:

IMG_7280_zpsa333de8e.jpg

Nice S chasis! does it chirp 2nd!

also in response to mr liths comments a few pages back.. do a 1:06 with smoke and skids JOB DONE!

It wheelstands 4th if that helps :P I think i need to do some adjustments on the foot pedal lolz

And agreed with the comments above, working on it ;)

  • 4 weeks later...

So, no real updates here... Moving house took a lot longer than expected and since doing that we have had no internet and no phone service hence we have been in the stone age!

I have started working on the shed as planned and its coming together as per my rough floor plan -

IMG_7433_zps1419e7c3.jpg

Also, The LOWDOWN.com guys now have the pics online from the JEM shoot, check out the workshop feature if you get a chance -

IMG_7427_zpsc3192b46.jpg

IMG_7425_zps7b0daad3.jpg

As some of you know the car is back at its second home.... JEM....This visit is just to fix a few weak spots we found at the track day....

Hopefully when it returns to the road it will also be quite capable on the track, 2014 will be more focussed on track days and hopefully will get some good laps in without issues!

This photo is thanks to Mr Paul Kelly :D -

735811_10152027364398329_717840852_o_zps

It looks like shit as its been towed in the rain twice since the track day :/ some serious TLC needed once it comes home!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Can I suggest you try EBC directly again and link them to as many competitor catalogues as you can to show their listing is incorrect, eg https://dba.com.au/product/front-4000-series-hd-brake-rotor-dba42304/ If you have access to an R33 GTST VIN and your VIN, you could also use a Nissan Parts lookup like Amayama to show them the part number is different between 33 GTST and 34 GTT which may get their attention
    • So i got reply from EBC and they just this site where you can clearly see those 296mm fronts on R34 GTT. I send them photos and "quotes" that 296mm are not for 34 GTT and they are too small. But it will be very hard to return them cuz nobody here knows 100% and they just copy those EBC catalogue :-D https://ebcbrakesdirect.com/automotive/nissan/skyline-r34
    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
×
×
  • Create New...