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1 hour ago, 34GeeTeeTee said:

That eliminates part of the issue but is still pretty complex and has the turbo gasket plus heaps of welds around the manifold etc... I am trying to eliminate as many failure points as possible and also stay stainless due to the E85 etc

The old 6Boost split the collector from prolonged use on E85 and I've head other stories of bits flying through rear turbo wheels etc... So trying to keep it simple and reliable!

 

 

This is why i ended up going the Artec manifold and everything V-Band...

Hopefully the runner design and external gate positioning with the Artec manifold negates the need for twin scroll etc... We'll see...

Given I've gone the smaller G30 but biggest available (over the G35) anyway i don't feel response is going to be my issue, if anything we'll be pulling out timing in the mid range to preserve my third gear 🙃

  • Like 1
1 hour ago, mr_rbman said:

This is why i ended up going the Artec manifold and everything V-Band...

Hopefully the runner design and external gate positioning with the Artec manifold negates the need for twin scroll etc... We'll see...

Given I've gone the smaller G30 but biggest available (over the G35) anyway i don't feel response is going to be my issue, if anything we'll be pulling out timing in the mid range to preserve my third gear 🙃

Keen to see what results you get! I was eyeing off the G35 900 but haven't looked into it much yet due to work commitments!

I saw your comment about ease of fitment and those stupid nuts! I may try go a different path stud/nut wise if I go with ARTEC and hopefully leave the thread in the head this time lol!

 

On 1/6/2023 at 5:51 PM, 34GeeTeeTee said:

Keen to see what results you get! I was eyeing off the G35 900 but haven't looked into it much yet due to work commitments!

I saw your comment about ease of fitment and those stupid nuts! I may try go a different path stud/nut wise if I go with ARTEC and hopefully leave the thread in the head this time lol!

 

ended up buying a $2 12mm spanner and cutting it up, did the trick but still rather annoying

  • 4 weeks later...

No major updates here... Chipping away at small items till I figure out what to do about the Hot Side... Running low on time so I will have to make a call soon!

Rear suspension was a bit loud after Pheasant Wood, found the GKTech arms knocked loose again for the 3rd time so swung off everything again... Not sure if this is a common problem but its happening over and over on my car and I dont think I have done anything wrong.

I did however make a bad call and used the cheap "Urethane" bushes in the upper parts of my rear hubs and when I fit them they felt like plastic instead of "Urethane" and funnily enough they performed exactly like plastic would, even with the lube on them they smashed to bits and left me with nothing... 

image.thumb.jpeg.232526b37b298d8f1ba33a41188030d9.jpeg

The spherical bearing type was out of stock when I ordered those ages ago but I placed them on backorder and chucked them in now so hopefully no more issues.

image.thumb.jpeg.48bcb1bc9a8a50a97ac5b8f9c12bc0b7.jpeg

Between those and tightening the balljoints and lower arms again all knocks are now gone! I'll keep trying to figure them out and if the problem persists I'll have to make some calls!

Also decided to try run on the cheaper AR1 tyres for a bit to get things sorted before investing in another set of Z221 R comp tyres, I havent run the 34 on anything but Hankooks for 10 years but these things look the goods and feel pretty soft! 

image.thumb.jpeg.e24228315dc565d7d6caa01da869237a.jpeg

I will be setting up tyre temp monitoring in the car using Wheel Turtles so hopefully I can start to get a better understanding of how stuff is going and not just kill all the tyres!

Looked into AGP rear turbo housings as a possibility to run that with my spare 8374 on an ARTEC manifold or similar but at this stage I haven't made any decisions.

Next on the list is bleeding brakes and having all rotors machined so they are fresh to go again since I got them red hot at Pheasant Wood doing a heap of laps without cooling off.

Will update as I go!

 

 

 

 

  • Like 4

I have nyloc nuts on a few of my gktech arms and they have been fine so far. I do try and bolt check the car after a few events.
The nankang Ar1 is great for the money. Tyre pressure is key and depending on how you heat cycle and length of time you have them, they fell off for me after around 12 months but I think humidty played a part in that.

What type of events you using the 34 for? I do sprits/time attack and just switched to the Nankang CR-S, switched from the advan a050. It has same if not more grip than the a050 but is only really good for 1 fast lap at 100% and is sensitive to aggressive surface temp changes.

11 hours ago, robbo_rb180 said:

I have nyloc nuts on a few of my gktech arms and they have been fine so far. I do try and bolt check the car after a few events.
The nankang Ar1 is great for the money. Tyre pressure is key and depending on how you heat cycle and length of time you have them, they fell off for me after around 12 months but I think humidty played a part in that.

What type of events you using the 34 for? I do sprits/time attack and just switched to the Nankang CR-S, switched from the advan a050. It has same if not more grip than the a050 but is only really good for 1 fast lap at 100% and is sensitive to aggressive surface temp changes.

Strange thing is the nyloc on the balljoint on their adjustable LCA still knocked loose and that was swung off to tighten by both myself and DNA when it went for alignment and spanner checks. Will monitor and see how they go, surely it has to be something simple.

The 34 will mainly do Sprints and Time Attack stuff with the occasional drag and hillclimb event for shi!s and giggles (No changes to align or suspension, just thrash) and I'll use the Toyota 86 for basic track days and hillclimb stuff

I'll go back to the Z221 I am pretty sure as they have been an epic tyre and last quite a while but just to get the car going on something fresh I thought I would give the AR1 a crack and test out the Wheel Turtle stuff with those as well.

There was a cheap set of CR-S in a 265 that popped up the other day that I went to buy for the 86 but I missed out on them. The 86 will probably stay on cheap $100 Chinas Finest tyres and I'll spend decent amounts on rubber for the 34.

This year should see one or both cars on track each month hopefully!

 

  • Like 2

AR1s are grippy, however one thing to note (my personal experience) they're not progressive in terms of fading.

It's all grip, then nek minnit you've spun off the track.

My other mates with lighter cars have had better success (K24 EK Civic, S15).

12 minutes ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

AR1s are grippy, however one thing to note (my personal experience) they're not progressive in terms of fading.

It's all grip, then nek minnit you've spun off the track.

My other mates with lighter cars have had better success (K24 EK Civic, S15).

Interesting! I'll keep that in mind.

I'll likely end up back on the Z221 anyway but these will give me a quicker path to get back on track for now!

 

 

 

 

  • Like 2
  • 4 weeks later...

Quick update before RD1 of Supersprints start...

My Re-built EFR 8374 Supercore is for sale as it will no longer be needed as a spare - $2000 for SAU members

20230114_111901(1).thumb.jpg.5aad02b412b527d4efd4b73da5c93cc6.jpg20230114_111933(1).thumb.jpg.bd4a060708d2d9d05b607c989e3da390.jpg20230114_112012(1).thumb.jpg.89866270bfeafc3e5beeb01654839ffa.jpg

My whole EFR turbo package will be for sale shortly with near new alloy EFR8374 with T51rmod and Turbosmart BOV and the TS Hypex custom manifold, twin 40mm turbosmart gates, custom 4in dump, wiggins off turbo and front pipe, some braided lines between gates plus speedflow turbo fittings etc... This package will be around $7500.00 depending on what I salvage for my new setup keeping in mind its near $5k retail for the EFR these days - 

20230305_151058.thumb.jpg.be6e4a24ca25a513e0f93b9e9dd1541a.jpg

This combo performs amazing, looks and sounds amazing but in terms of serviceability trackside its not a viable option to leave on the car for the heavy track use it will be likely to see over the next couple of years. As its mostly fresh and will be perfect for any street or light track use combo I would rather see it go to a good home. Boost control was never activated on this setup and on the gate springs alone it made between 410-450kw on around 20-21psi depending on the temps and the tune. It is responsive, its fun to drive and it sounds amazing as see on the dyno video.

I'm going back to basics with a simple Garrett, single gate and basic manifold... No bells and whistles approach as the key for this car is laps and lots of them! I'll update as I go.

You can actually see in the image below where a V band failure torched my paintwork on the car which was unable to be fixed trackside and ended our day, this is something that was easily fixed at home but red hot at the track it was impossible to access and is a key part of the reason for the back to basics approach.

20230306_140030.thumb.jpg.d02c6364eba23815bf70a0d04650a9b5.jpg

Racepace has been really helpful with advice on this change and although I will be sacrificing some performance from the current combination it will allow me to get back on track and run reliably for years to come and there will be more performance gains from seat time than any turbo combination can give.

Jez will be handing tuning duties and i am looking forward to seeing what he can do with this setup as we will be tuning for torque.

K Racing has assisted with sourcing Turbosmart goodies for the build and has also been a long time supporter with both cars, if you need tyres or any performance bits Ryan is the once to speak to!

Hi Spool has been assisting with the turbo stuff and hopefully finds the G series for me this week so we can get it running and into fab quick smart!

Stay tuned for more updates.

  • Like 8
11 hours ago, 34GeeTeeTee said:

Quick update before RD1 of Supersprints start...

My Re-built EFR 8374 Supercore is for sale as it will no longer be needed as a spare - $2000 for SAU members

20230114_111901(1).thumb.jpg.5aad02b412b527d4efd4b73da5c93cc6.jpg20230114_111933(1).thumb.jpg.bd4a060708d2d9d05b607c989e3da390.jpg20230114_112012(1).thumb.jpg.89866270bfeafc3e5beeb01654839ffa.jpg

My whole EFR turbo package will be for sale shortly with near new alloy EFR8374 with T51rmod and Turbosmart BOV and the TS Hypex custom manifold, twin 40mm turbosmart gates, custom 4in dump, wiggins off turbo and front pipe, some braided lines between gates plus speedflow turbo fittings etc... This package will be around $7500.00 depending on what I salvage for my new setup keeping in mind its near $5k retail for the EFR these days - 

20230305_151058.thumb.jpg.be6e4a24ca25a513e0f93b9e9dd1541a.jpg

This combo performs amazing, looks and sounds amazing but in terms of serviceability trackside its not a viable option to leave on the car for the heavy track use it will be likely to see over the next couple of years. As its mostly fresh and will be perfect for any street or light track use combo I would rather see it go to a good home. Boost control was never activated on this setup and on the gate springs alone it made between 410-450kw on around 20-21psi depending on the temps and the tune. It is responsive, its fun to drive and it sounds amazing as see on the dyno video.

I'm going back to basics with a simple Garrett, single gate and basic manifold... No bells and whistles approach as the key for this car is laps and lots of them! I'll update as I go.

You can actually see in the image below where a V band failure torched my paintwork on the car which was unable to be fixed trackside and ended our day, this is something that was easily fixed at home but red hot at the track it was impossible to access and is a key part of the reason for the back to basics approach.

20230306_140030.thumb.jpg.d02c6364eba23815bf70a0d04650a9b5.jpg

Racepace has been really helpful with advice on this change and although I will be sacrificing some performance from the current combination it will allow me to get back on track and run reliably for years to come and there will be more performance gains from seat time than any turbo combination can give.

Jez will be handing tuning duties and i am looking forward to seeing what he can do with this setup as we will be tuning for torque.

K Racing has assisted with sourcing Turbosmart goodies for the build and has also been a long time supporter with both cars, if you need tyres or any performance bits Ryan is the once to speak to!

Hi Spool has been assisting with the turbo stuff and hopefully finds the G series for me this week so we can get it running and into fab quick smart!

Stay tuned for more updates.

Exciting times, looking forward to the results...

On 11/03/2023 at 9:02 PM, Komdotkom said:

Did you go for a G30-900?

G35 900 as its purely for track use.

Still 50/50 on the decision but first drive will tell if it was right or not. I was planning G30 770 with 1.01 rear but figured on a 2.8l it would be very snappy and potentially harder to drive. Will see what happens in the next couple of weeks.

 

 

  • Like 1
5 hours ago, 34GeeTeeTee said:

G35 900 as its purely for track use.

Still 50/50 on the decision but first drive will tell if it was right or not. I was planning G30 770 with 1.01 rear but figured on a 2.8l it would be very snappy and potentially harder to drive. Will see what happens in the next couple of weeks.

 

 

Will be interesting to see how it goes, look forward to results - shame the EFRs are so bulky/tricky to swap in that case but it is a thing, as you say you're likely taking a performance hit to make it more serviceable buuuuuut realistically with VCam and 2.8litre when you're keeping it on steam (and you have a sequential now?) I doubt it's going to be an issue.

A 2JZ I play with has a G35 900 on and from what I've seen so it behaves quite a bit like EFR9180s that I've also been around on 3litre 6s spool/response wise, obviously not quite the same level of flow (But on the other hand, definitely more potential than the 8374) but you're not trying to make that power so the response is the main thing.   EFR9180s are pretty proven on static cam RB28 track cars, so with VCam I'm sure it'll be fine.    Would have been interesting to see a G30 900 with a bigger housing on it if you were aiming for low 400kw, but the G35 feels like a safer bet :)

Edited by Lithium

No sequential business here... H pattern FTW! 

No idea how it will spool or respond as there was limited RB info to go by and nobody seemed to have the same answer. I spoke to as many as I could and got as much info as I could to make an uneducated guesstimate.

Will run the G35 900 and if down low its a pig and hard to drive I can easily switch back to a smaller version in the near future which is why the V band setup was appealing! 

I was close to pulling the trigger on the G30 but as much as I like the low down response I also don't want it turning the tyres off every corner making it slower overall. 

Will find out if it was a good or bad decision soon enough! I've put 17psi gate springs in and will see how it rolls over on that and then if needed we can switch on the boost controller (Which has been off for years as it never got used with the EFR combo).

 

  • Like 1
2 minutes ago, 34GeeTeeTee said:

I was close to pulling the trigger on the G30 but as much as I like the low down response I also don't want it turning the tyres off every corner making it slower overall. 

Will find out if it was a good or bad decision soon enough! I've put 17psi gate springs in and will see how it rolls over on that and then if needed we can switch on the boost controller (Which has been off for years as it never got used with the EFR combo).

 

To be fair I'd be surprised if the G30 would have been any spicier from low rpm than the 8374, and I guess it all takes time - but good tuning/boost control should ensure that you don't have too much being dumped at the tyres at once.    I think with RWD cars use for corners people get a bit too carried away with trying to make turbos run all the boost they can from low rpm just because they can, nothing wrong with keeping the good response but holding it back from making more than is driveable in the lower revs.   

Like I just say that for discussions sake, I'm not expecting the G35 to be a nugget - but I do suspect it's going to be noticeably less snappy with all else being equal.   Be cool if I'm wrong though, or at the very least its at the level where it works nicely for what you're doing :)  Looking forward to results as data is way more fun than speculation haha

It will be running on smaller tracks initially and I found I was having to pluck 2nd with the EFR anyway so I dare say it wont be a lot different with the G35 in that regard... Only one way to find out... I tried leaving the EFR in 3rd off the tighter corners and it just took too long to get its steam back again.

Will find out in the next few weeks either way!

 

 

  • Like 1

The absolute worst case scenario is you can cash in on the advantages of having a compact turbo with vband stuff and swap without needing to change anything else if it is a problem.  Shouldn't be though :)

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