Jump to content
SAU Community

What Track Car Would You Buy? - Starting With A Clean Slate

JZP

By JZP,
in Motorsport Discussion & Builds

 Share

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 121
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Posted Images

DJRIFT Veteran

DJRIFT

Posted
Posted

Nice.

1052010121008356_m.jpg

i didnt realise how cheap this car is. its local to me and i hasnt done much racing for the last 2 or so years. it has everything an r32 needs to start at the track and like usual its had the money spent. if the motor pops put a 25 in it as all the stuff will interchange.

if i was to start on a clean slate id be going for an S14. a few reasons. more advanced in most aspects than the s13. better parts all around. heaps of after market suport. Aus delivered meaning that they are everywhere.

second pick would be an r33. i think they are a hugely under rated car for any kind of motorsport. its just a bit of a mind set thing. its a bit like how older people still race toranas but not many race ford GT's.

the big plus on the r33 is the bullet proof box but in circuit it will take a while to brake an sr box. and with recent experiances im not a fan of the r33 rb25 engine.

as far as lap timing track stuff i would get one of the Haltech racepac dashes. if you want to take somthing away from every track day than a data logger is very handy. the racepac dash does lap timing. lap tracking. and will log a swag load of data. whist this may seem to be an expensive option and far more than you need by the time you add one or two decent gauges and a stand alone lap timer than you will nearly have spent the price of the dash. in our recent experiances the data that is able to be collected by these dashes makes it pay for its self by only improving the car where it needs it.

if your car needs a new ecu or an ecu to start with than the plug in haltech options will share data between the ecu and dash making the pair of them a very good mix.

Snowman Grand Master

Snowman

Posted
Posted

i didnt realise how cheap this car is. its local to me and i hasnt done much racing for the last 2 or so years. it has everything an r32 needs to start at the track and like usual its had the money spent. if the motor pops put a 25 in it as all the stuff will interchange.

Bris and I stopped to check it out on the way back to the boat this week. It's pretty rough. Bris was keen - but now isn't.

phunky_monkey Grand Master

phunky_monkey

Posted
Posted

Agree...

There's heaps of S13's with mega mods though...

And they can look just as good! (shameless free plug for me :ph34r: )

post-8405-0-71037400-1302748635_thumb.jpg

The car was never 100% completed before I sold it, but you may find some info on here that could interest you: http://project180sx.blogspot.com/

If the S13 has work already done then I'd happily go for that.

Snowman Grand Master

Snowman

Posted
Posted

Speak to Bris (Roy on the forums).

He's far more the expert on all things R32 GTS-T than me. I was still suffering the shakes from the drinking session the night before to really care too much about it (he was the interested party)

Roy Grand Master

Roy

Posted
Posted

I'd go with a 4AGE powered Lotus 7 replica, most fun track day car ever IMO.

3948567375_865641246e_o.jpg

Light weight, good power to weight ratio, great handling, dead easy to work on, and awesome fun out on a track.

Agree..(dont encourage me to pull out my vids in a Caterham :) ) but they are waaaaay tooo expensive for what they are. 25k then ok. But they want 3-3 times that which makes them a joke

djr81 Grand Master

djr81

Posted
Posted

Agree..(dont encourage me to pull out my vids in a Caterham :) ) but they are waaaaay tooo expensive for what they are. 25k then ok. But they want 3-3 times that which makes them a joke

Yeah but you dont have to have a Caterham. There are a bundle of other makes. Just get one with an independent rear end and the wide body version (To fit your child bearing hips). As long as you arent too tall they are great cars. Put whatever motor you want in them. You can even get them with a carbon fibre tub if you have the coin.

They are quick - very quick on tight stuff. Fun to drive & they are cheap to run. Stack up how much you will pay for brakes/tyres/motors on a turbo charged Nissan anything and compare it to the $1.50 it costs to run a Clubbie. If I could fit in one of the damn things I would probably go buy one.

http://www.carsales.com.au/all-cars/results.aspx?N=1216+1246+1247+1252+1282+4294933671&keywords=&tsrc=allcarhome&Nne=15

NickR33 Grand Master

NickR33

Posted
Posted

I almost bought one... but as I needed to drive it on the road I was bothered by the safety aspect... if anyone hit you you would be making a trip to the hospital

As soon as I have the space for a toy I'll be seriously considering it again

djr81 Grand Master

djr81

Posted
Posted

I almost bought one... but as I needed to drive it on the road I was bothered by the safety aspect... if anyone hit you you would be making a trip to the hospital

As soon as I have the space for a toy I'll be seriously considering it again

I agree with what you are saying - but the SIPS on a 2 door R32 is still pretty nonexistant, least of all if someone with a fk off big roo bar on their 4WD nails you where the B piller isnt.

A westie XTR is something a bit interesting if you had the coin.

NickR33 Grand Master

NickR33

Posted
Posted

yeah still not great but in a clubbie forget about SIPS... they would drive right over you

my 33R has airbags at least... and I'm much easier to see (and hear)... clubman type cars are so low they're hard to see in traffic

SRS13 Proficient

SRS13

Posted
Posted (edited)

But it's already got your name on it!

I'm probably biased but i'd be looking at s13/14 for a few reasons.

S13 is a cheaper buy in, but on the flip side it needs more spent on it to bring it up to a decent level for track work. It's also more likely to have worn out components that need replacing and budget spec drift mods. It is lighter than an s14 though.

The s14 will cost a bit more but it comes with better brakes has the (arguably) better VCT SR, has better suspension geometry and brakes. It can fit more rubber under the stock guards too.

Both are cheap to mod, particularly brakes as r33/r34gtst ones are cheap and more than ample on the lighter s chassis, both are proven performers on the track with minimal money spent

Plenty of common parts between S and R chassis too if you have old bits from the skyline lying around already.

As for learning, you'll learn more in a rwd with no driver aid's than you will in something like an emo where the drivers have aids

Lap timing stuff, there's plenty available. I have an XT racing timer, but there's AIM and a few others about as well in a similar price bracket.

If it was a crossover street/track car i'd have another r32gtst, thanks.

Agree with that but as Dave said we probably are a little biased!

The only thing about a Silvia that doesn't potentially match your criteria is that generally they are not a on/off trailer proposition. You are constantly improving/modifying them in some way shape or form - unless you buy one already done.

There are a heap of cheap Silvia's around with heaps of mods. But with the cheap comes some nasty, so shop around and choose carefully if you go down that path (applies to every car I guess).

Have a read of this thread for some idea of what can be had for relatively few bucks (if you haven't already looked);

Silvia

As for track times, there are some Silvia's that put a lot of other more fancy and expensive cars to shame.

Edited by SRS13

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • oHBoy.
      Starter motor replacment teeth count.

      By oHBoy. · Posted

      I had 3 counts over the last couple of weeks once where i got stranded at a jdm paint yard booking in some work. 2nd time was moving the car into the drive way for the inspection and the 3rd was during the inspection for the co2 leak test. Fix: 1st, car off for a hour and half disconnected battery 10mins 4th try car started 2nd, 5th try started 3rd, countless time starting disconnected battery dude was under the hood listening to the starting sequence fuel pump ect.   
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      This. As for your options - I suggest remote mounting the Nissan sensor further away on a length of steel tube. That tube to have a loop in it to handle vibration, etc etc. You will need to either put a tee and a bleed fitting near the sensor, or crack the fitting at the sensor to bleed it full of oil when you first set it up, otherwise you won't get the line filled. But this is a small problem. Just needs enough access to get it done.
    • suko
      J50 clock date suddenly reset to January 1

      By suko · Posted

      The time is always correct. Only the date is wrong. It currently thinks it is January 19. Tomorrow it will say it is January 20. The date and time are ( should be ! ) retrieved from the GPS navigation system.
    • MBS206
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Buy yourself a set of easy outs. See if they will get a good bite in and unthread it.   Very very lucky the whole sender didn't let go while on the track and cost you a motor!
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      Well GTSBoy, prepare yourself further. I did a track day with 1/2 a day prep on Friday, inpromptu. The good news is that I got home, and didn't drive the car into a wall. Everything seemed mostly okay. The car was even a little faster than it was last time. I also got to get some good datalog data too. I also noticed a tiny bit of knock which was (luckily?) recorded. All I know is the knock sensors got recalibrated.... and are notorious for false knock. So I don't know if they are too sensitive, not sensitive enough... or some other third option. But I reduced timing anyway. It wasn't every pull through the session either. Think along the lines of -1 degree of timing for say, three instances while at the top of 4th in a 20 minute all-hot-lap session. Unfortunately at the end of session 2... I noticed a little oil. I borrowed some jack stands and a jack and took a look under there, but as is often the case, messing around with it kinda half cleaned it up, it was not conclusive where it was coming from. I decided to give it another go and see how it was. The amount of oil was maybe one/two small drops. I did another 20 minute session and car went well, and I was just starting to get into it and not be terrified of driving on track. I pulled over and checked in the pits and saw this: This is where I called it, packed up and went home as I live ~20 min from the track with a VERY VERY CLOSE EYE on Oil Pressure on the way home. The volume wasn't much but you never know. I checked it today when I had my own space/tools/time to find out what was going on, wanted to clean it up, run the car and see if any of the fittings from around the oil filter were causing it. I have like.. 5 fittings there, so I suspected one was (hopefully?) the culprit. It became immediately apparent as soon as I looked around more closely. 795d266d-a034-4b8c-89c9-d83860f5d00a.mp4       This is the R34 GTT oil sender connected via an adapter to an oil cooler block I have installed which runs AN lines to my cooler (and back). There's also an oil temp sensor on top.  Just after that video, I attempted to unthread the sensor to see if it's loose/worn and it disintegrated in my hand. So yes. I am glad I noticed that oil because it would appear that complete and utter catastrophic engine failure was about 1 second of engine runtime away. I did try to drill the fitting out, and only succeeded in drilling the middle hole much larger and now there's a... smooth hole in there with what looks like a damn sleeve still incredibly tight in there. Not really sure how to proceed from here. My options: 1) Find someone who can remove the stuck fitting, and use a steel adapter so it won't fatigue? (Female BSPT for the R34 sender to 1/8NPT male - HARD to find). IF it isn't possible to remove - Buy a new block ($320) and have someone tap a new 1/8NPT in the top of it ($????) and hope the steel adapter works better. 2) Buy a new block and give up on the OEM pressure sender for the dash entirely, and use the supplied 1/8 NPT for the oil temp sender. Having the oil pressure read 0 in the dash with the warning lamp will give me a lot of anxiety driving around. I do have the actual GM sensor/sender working, but it needs OBD2 as a gauge. If I'm datalogging I don't actually have a readout of what the gauge is currently displaying. 3) Other? Find a new location for the OEM sender? Though I don't know of anywhere that will work. I also don't know if a steel adapter is actually functionally smart here. It's clearly leveraged itself through vibration of the motor and snapped in half. This doesn't seem like a setup a smart person would replicate given the weight of the OEM sender. Still pretty happy being lucky for once and seeing this at the absolute last moment before bye bye motor in a big way, even if an adapter is apparently 6 weeks+ delivery and I have no way to free the current stuck/potentially destroyed threads in the current oil block.
×
×
  • Create New...