Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey Russ if you get stuck i have a r32 subframe sitting at home if you get desperate, needs bushings though, a couple of them are cracked/leaking. Otherwise its had an easy life. Most of the rear suspension is still bolted to it though, but can be quickly ripped off with impact wrench. Also various gtr/gtst diff housing and centre/gears.

Well shakedown 2 didn't go too well. Only got 2 sessions in at PI on saturday

You and me both....although for diff reasons. I went to Sandown and was gentle on the motor for the first two sessions checking knock and temps etc...then the rain hit and out went my chance of a PB :(

No matter as I enjoyed the entry to the front straight ;) and I will live to fight another day!

Good luck with the prep/fixes.

I'm in open class.

Haven't tested a GTR cooler yet coz of the need to modify piping. Lots of time has gone into piping so don't wanna have to redo it if there is a better option. Thanks for the offer though.

well i have just upgraded to a 4" thick core for my car so i have the old "hybrid GT spec" branded 600x300x76 (3" in and out) bar and plate core spare.

though if you are looking for a tube and fin design thats not much help.

well i have just upgraded to a 4" thick core for my car so i have the old "hybrid GT spec" branded 600x300x76 (3" in and out) bar and plate core spare.

though if you are looking for a tube and fin design thats not much help.

Ok. What power has it 'flowed'? what's the length end to end? How much?

Put a STD GTR cooler in it Russ! Best flow kw wise and they actually allow air threw to ur rad which is a big problem with all these crappy aftermarket tube and fin/bar and plate coolers!

Just did similar upgardes to my thing, High mount and GTR cooler now making an easy 320kw and running 30 degrees cooler at Sandown!

  • 2 weeks later...

Seems like you did okay at winton today Russ, you feeling better prepared for Super Lap now?

Yeah mate. Very happy to get a 1:33.7 at winton. Consistent 1:34's with a turn in understeer problem is great. understeered wide at turn 6 (last right kink before the cleavage) and hit a saw tooth ripple strip. Need another alignment now. It wouldn't turn right properly after that :(

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The oil pressure sensor for logging, does it happen to be the one that was slowly breaking out of the oil block? If it is,I would be ignoring your logs. You had a leak at the sensor which would mean it can't read accurately. It's a small hole at the sensor, and you had a small hole just before it, meaning you could have lost significant pressure reading.   As for brakes, if it's just fluid getting old, you won't necessarily end up with air sitting in the line. Bleed a shit tonne of fluid through so you effectively replace it and go again. Oh and, pay close attention to the pressure gauge while on track!
    • I don't know it is due to that. It could just be due to load on track being more than a dyno. But it would be nice to rule it out. We're talking a fraction of a second of pulling ~1 degree of timing. So it's not a lot, but I'd rather it be 0... Thicker oil isn't really a "bandaid" if it's oil that is going to run at 125C, is it? It will be thicker at 100 and thus at 125, where the 40 weight may not be as thick as one may like for that use. I already have a big pump that has been ported. They (They in this instance being the guy that built my heads) port them so they flow more at lower RPM but have a bypass spring that I believe is ~70psi. I have seen 70psi of oil pressure up top in the past, before I knew I had this leak. I have a 25 row oil cooler that takes up all the space in the driver side guard. It is interesting that GM themselves recommend 0-30 oil for their Vette applications. Unless you take it to the track where the official word is to put 20-50w oil in there, then take that back out after your track day is done and return to 0-30.
    • Nice, looks great. Nice work getting the factory parts also. Never know when you'll need them.
    • Thanks @jtha7 I will have a look around tomorrow but it is a prick of a spot. These are some photos i tried taking 
    • I take it that the knock retard is from bearings tapping a little tune? Thicker oil is a fragile bandaid. You need a much bigger oil cooler and probably the bigger pump being discussed.
×
×
  • Create New...