Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Unfortunately the new custom sump was modelled on an R33 and it didn't clear the swaybar enough when we put it in last week.

Because of this we missed out at PI on the weekend. I had brand new rubber on the thing and was ready to go but no such luck...

Turns out that the whiteline sway bar that is on my car was a prototype from years ago and they don't sell them anymore so pretty unique situation. The bend is very close to the sump so that's what has caused the issue. I think that a new 27mm sway bar with a better option that pulling the sump off again! Custom one being investigated now. Hope it makes the 21st!!

  • 2 weeks later...

time for another update...

New 27mm swaybar has just arrived to solve the sump clearance issues. I currently have a loan 24mm until I get a chance to fit the 27mm. Might try both on the weekend if I can as a comparison.

Fulcrum suspension have sorted out the bar for me.

I've extended the wing end plates as the old ones were a little small and the bigger ones should hopefully stop a bit of the spill over the sides.

post-10715-0-12315400-1342526396_thumb.jpg

The splitter has come a long way. I'm still testing as it's all a bit new to me still. I'm really just copying what the fast guys do and following basic principles and advice I'm getting along the way.

I'll be logging the data at Philip Island this weekend to see if straight line speed is sacrificed and if corner speed is increased. As a bare minimum I'm expecting more downforce from just the splitter seperating the air and minimising air flow under the car.

If it all works the plan is to make the parts out of carbon fibre down the track. It's all trial and error at the moment.

post-10715-0-15594600-1342526630_thumb.jpg

post-10715-0-67829500-1342526762_thumb.jpg

post-10715-0-83309300-1342526985_thumb.jpg

loving the alloy canards. i made some about 3 years ago and was laughed at. been hesitant to make any new ones.

i seen in a build thread for an american R35 time attack car they made canards out of alloy. they were far easier and cheaper and did the same job.

are the uprights for your wing an off the shelf item?

Yeah the ally is pretty light except for the splitter. It's damn heavy. CF would be so much better

are the uprights for your wing an off the shelf item?

Nah they were made by superleggera carbon fibre in sydney. They're pretty hard core!

Yeah the ally is pretty light except for the splitter. It's damn heavy. CF would be so much better

Nah they were made by superleggera carbon fibre in sydney. They're pretty hard core!

oh they look like a production type thing.

do you have any bracing under the boot lid? i may have missed it.

Hope you don't mind Russ. Most people probably know what happened already!

Russmans R32 GTST blasting around PI in it's last shakedown before WTAC!

For the full article check out Autocult -> CLICK HERE!

7629603330_b9209c015b_b.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
×
×
  • Create New...