Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Must sell to make room for more customer cars!

Konig Rewind 14x7-7 with near new kumho tyres $400 pair

Performance Challengers 15x8-10 no Tyres $400 pair

S15 standard wheels, pair with tyres $50

S13 Stock front and rear and $30 each

S13 front drivers guard, two, $100

S13 front reo bar, perfect $100

S13 rear garnishs $20 each

S13 dash clusters $20 each

S13 door mirrors $20 each

S13 tail lights, two pairs, $50 each

S13 steering column complete with keys and barrel $100

S13 castor rod brackets, castor rods, toe arms, traction arms $20 each

S13 sway bars, front and rear, $20 each

S13 Rear LCAs $70 each

S13 rear hubs with wheel bearing $50 each

S13 non hicas subframes, $80 each

S13 driveshafts 6 bolt and 5 bolt $50 each

S13/R32 LSD Diffs, various ratios, $200 each

S13 handbrake cables $100

S13 Heater core $50

S13 Dash, 1 tiny crack, black, $25

S13 interior switches/vents etc $5 each

S13 parcel shelf/rear seat sheet metal cover, great for track days $80

S13 front grills $5

S13 wiper arms $20 each

180SX 50mm no vent jap made front guards $250 pair

180SX front bar, standard SR type, $20

180SX front bar indicators, crystal clear type, $50 pair

S14 Series 2 front bar indicators, crystal clear type, $50 pair

SR S13 power fc and hand controller used in box with manuals mint $900

SR S14 power fc and hand controller used mint condition $800

SR S13 52mm twin core radiator, new in box $220

SR engine fan assembly complete $50

SR standard sumps $10 each

SR engine mounts $100 pair

SR standard exhaust manifolds $30 each

SR standard S13 intake manifolds $20 each

SR NON TURBO 60mm throttle body, upgrade your DET $50 each

SR TURBO injectors $40 set

RB20 engine fan assembly complete $40

RB20 S13/R32 52mm twin core radiator, new in box $220

1JZ twin turbo setup, all intake pipes, 2 turbos etc etc $100

CA20 gearbox, perfect, $100

CA18 HKS CAMS, 256 8.5in 264 8.5ex $300

CA18 Pacemaker Fireball Extractors $100

CA18 S13 52mm twin core radiator, new in box $220

Turbosmart Boost controllers, manual, $30 each

AE86 rear shocks, TRD Blue 8 way adjustable, perfect condition, $250 pair

AE86 steering knuckles $50

  • 2 weeks later...

Ive got one you can have for free mate if you can pull it out but it has paint all over it, could be cleaned off i would imagine... you could just cut the bodyshell up and take the whole rear pillars and get the glass removed somewhere else also.

PM sent mate

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I myself AM TOTALLY UNPREPARED TO BELIEVE that the load is higher on the track than on the dyno. If it is not happening on the dyno, I cannot see it happening on the track. The difference you are seeing is because it is hot on the track, and I am pretty sure your tuner is not belting the crap out of it on teh dyno when it starts to get hot. The only way that being hot on the track can lead to real ping, that I can think of, is if you are getting more oil (from mist in the inlet tract, or going up past the oil control rings) reducing the effective octane rating of the fuel and causing ping that way. Yeah, nah. Look at this graph which I will helpfully show you zoomed back in. As an engineer, I look at the difference in viscocity at (in your case, 125°C) and say "they're all the same number". Even though those lines are not completely collapsed down onto each other, the oil grades you are talking about (40, 50 and 60) are teh top three lines (150, 220 and 320) and as far as I am concerned, there is not enough difference between them at that temperature to be meaningful. The viscosity of 60 at 125°C is teh same as 40 at 100°C. You should not operate it under high load at high temperature. That is purely because the only way they can achieve their emissions numbers is with thin-arse oil in it, so they have to tell you to put thin oil in it for the street. They know that no-one can drive the car & engine hard enough on the street to reach the operating regime that demands the actual correct oil that the engine needs on the track. And so they tell you to put that oil in for the track. Find a way to get more air into it, or, more likely, out of it. Or add a water spray for when it's hot. Or something.   As to the leak --- a small leak that cannot cause near catastrophic volume loss in a few seconds cannot cause a low pressure condition in the engine. If the leak is large enough to drop oil pressure, then you will only get one or two shots at it before the sump is drained.
    • So..... it's going to be a heater hose or other coolant hose at the rear of the head/plenum. Or it's going to be one of the welch plugs on the back of the motor, which is a motor out thing to fix.
    • The oil pressure sensor for logging, does it happen to be the one that was slowly breaking out of the oil block? If it is,I would be ignoring your logs. You had a leak at the sensor which would mean it can't read accurately. It's a small hole at the sensor, and you had a small hole just before it, meaning you could have lost significant pressure reading.   As for brakes, if it's just fluid getting old, you won't necessarily end up with air sitting in the line. Bleed a shit tonne of fluid through so you effectively replace it and go again. Oh and, pay close attention to the pressure gauge while on track!
    • I don't know it is due to that. It could just be due to load on track being more than a dyno. But it would be nice to rule it out. We're talking a fraction of a second of pulling ~1 degree of timing. So it's not a lot, but I'd rather it be 0... Thicker oil isn't really a "bandaid" if it's oil that is going to run at 125C, is it? It will be thicker at 100 and thus at 125, where the 40 weight may not be as thick as one may like for that use. I already have a big pump that has been ported. They (They in this instance being the guy that built my heads) port them so they flow more at lower RPM but have a bypass spring that I believe is ~70psi. I have seen 70psi of oil pressure up top in the past, before I knew I had this leak. I have a 25 row oil cooler that takes up all the space in the driver side guard. It is interesting that GM themselves recommend 0-30 oil for their Vette applications. Unless you take it to the track where the official word is to put 20-50w oil in there, then take that back out after your track day is done and return to 0-30.
    • Nice, looks great. Nice work getting the factory parts also. Never know when you'll need them.
×
×
  • Create New...