Jump to content
SAU Community

Carrera Car Wash

vrm

By vrm,
in Victoria

 Share

Washing your car  

23 members have voted

You do not have permission to vote in this poll, or see the poll results. Please sign in or register to vote in this poll.

Recommended Posts

JEPPE Mentor

JEPPE

Posted
Posted

I hate washing my own car. Two particular so I end up spending 3 hours getting every inch glistening... usually causing more damage then good in the process. Right now it looks like a rally car so have been meaning to get it washed... may take this up.

jezza boii Grand Master

jezza boii

Posted
Posted

Try to wash my car every weekend, but if it is raining, I leave it till next week and hope it ain't raining.

Same.

I wash my car properly (takes over 2 hours) each weekend. If it gets dusty during the week then I'll wash it a further 1 - 2 times at the carwash. Gets dust off but no chance of getting grime off.. Those things may aswell spray compressed air instead of soap/water.

R31Nismoid Grand Master

R31Nismoid

Posted
Posted

2 hours? What on earth are you guys doing? :O

I can have my whole car washed (exterior) in around 15mins, 20mins if im being slow. 10mins to dry, 15-20 if im talking or on the phone.

Interior isn't much more than a wiper over of the dash, doors etc.

A good body detail, with good wax etc = cut times down MASSIVELY. I can almost wash my car just off a high pressure hose because of it, and im talking full brown dirt thats been there for 3-4 days :)

Downforce Grand Master

Downforce

Posted
Posted

I wash mine once every few weeks.... depends on the weather. I just take it to one of those do it yourself carlovers places...And I use the brush!! hahaha. It's not a show car I don't car about small imperfections. On my previous car I waxed and polished it by hand wax every now and then to keep the black shiny.. Wax helps alot with the finish.

jezza boii Grand Master

jezza boii

Posted
Posted (edited)

2 hours? What on earth are you guys doing? :O

I can have my whole car washed (exterior) in around 15mins, 20mins if im being slow. 10mins to dry, 15-20 if im talking or on the phone.

Takes me a while to set up. Gotta unpack high pressure washer, hoses and I'm constantly running inside to fill up more buckets of water etc.

Pre-soak - One bucket worth of suds to go over the whole car and loosen up the dirt

Pre-rinse - Rinse off a majority of dirt, so it doesn't scratch the paint when I wash it

Wash - Go over the whole car with microfiber. 2 buckets: 1 soap, 1 water, rinsing any dirt off the towel to prevent scratching/swirl marks

Wheel wash - Use the leftover soap on a different cloth to clean wheels, exhaust and inside guards (if they're visibly dirty from outside)

Rinse - High pressure rinse

Dry - Chamois or microfiber dry the whole car (except wheels) and have a bucket of water ready to rinse towel if I go over any dirty bits I missed while washing

I then use a disposable cloth (got 1000s due to mum's work) to dry/clean the wheels coz they tend to be the dirtiest, getting into all the little grooves. Occasionally then I will use 'Purple' wheel polish on the chrome lip if they're looking dull/oxidized.

Wax - (Although lately I've been lazy and used a pH neutral shampoo/wax (all in one type thing) which negates this step)

After that I'll gloss up the tyres with some tyre shine and that's the exterior done. Including the setup/packup all that can take me over an hour if I take my time. It works for me and results are flawless.

Edited by jezza boii
Birds Grand Master

Birds

Posted
Posted

I do much the same thing as Jeremy, however wax maybe every 4-6 months. The paste wax I use lasts for a long time.

I'm starting to cut down the time I spend spongebathing it though...it's just too much, and a waste of time. Whilst it's nice to have a car flawless on every panel...unless you're standing closer than a metre away, you won't notice the difference between that sort of job and one you've spent half the time washing less thoroughly. That and, give it half an hour, you already have your first dirt mark again. More frequent washes done in half the time is where it's at.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Haggerty
      RB25DE NEO with Haltech ECU

      By Haggerty · Posted

      As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • AnimalGarage
      spot the stagea

      By AnimalGarage · Posted

      It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • GTSBoy
      R34 Handbrake light saying ON and intermittently flashing

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
    • GabsReDeal
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By GabsReDeal · Posted

      In my head it does make sense to be a fuel problem since that is what I touched when cleaning the system. When I was testing with the fuel pressure gauge, the pressure was constantly 2.5 bar with the FPR vacuum removed. When stalling, the pressure was going up to 3.0 bar (which is how it should be on ignition).
    • Duncan
      R34 Handbrake light saying ON and intermittently flashing

      By Duncan · Posted

      ECUtalk pages don't mention they support the ABS computer (consult port has more than one CAN), so you might just need a different scan tool. But, I would expect ABS is a different light to the brake warning/handbrake light, do you see an ABS light come on for a few seconds when you turn the key from ACC to IGN? But since you said: I'd have a look at the ABS sensors in the rear hubs to make sure they are not damaged, disconnected etc.
×
×
  • Create New...