Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

This topic has probably been covered a million times but i cant find it.

Just wondering how much a power an rb25 with stock internals can handle all day every day on a safe tune?

My current project is: rb25det (standard motor)

550cc injectors

hks gt2530 turbo

14 psi boost

apexi power fc

z32 afm

hks pod filter

hks fmic

hks 3.5 inch turbo back exhaust

If there is already a write up can someone please let me know.

Cheers

  • Replies 110
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

awesome. Id be happy with 250-270 and i drive pretty hard, so i reckon i'll be sweet. As long as i get it tuned properly like you said

Your going to be very unhappy then.

As has been said 230kw is doable from one pushing it as hard as it can go. Friend had a HKS 2535 Kai on his and the most that ever saw was high 230s/low 240s.

Far out Mr Ash, hell I try and be specific about "@ hubs" but still occasionally let "@ wheels" slip, its easy to do given the difference in many cases is negligable and its basically more to quantify that it wasn't on an engine dyno. If you want to get pedantic you may as well make a forum rule that every time someone says a dyno result they say:

Ambient Temp:

Ambient Pressure:

Tyre Pressure:

Tyre Size:

Tyre Profile:

Tyre Temperature:

Tyre Type:

Gearbox type:

Dyno Type:

Dyno Correction method:

Air Intake Temperature location:

Ramp rate:

Tie down method:

But thats just taking silly and running with it :)

Far out Mr Ash, hell I try and be specific about "@ hubs" but still occasionally let "@ wheels" slip, its easy to do given the difference in many cases is negligable

It's not occasional in this instance (otherwise i totally agree with ya). Back-to-back testing was done by another user that shows that particular hub dyno reads a solid 40-60kw different. That's a bit more than 2 degree change in ambient temperature :thumbsup:

I say all this because of the thread title "How much can a standard RB25 handle".

People get it in their heads that it's ok to run around making "350rwkw+" when people go around making false claims, when realistically thats really taking a gamble and not a good idea at all.

Over the next 12 months i think we might see a few more 300-320rwkw RB25's fail as there are a few users who have been around that mark now for 2-3 years. So perhaps even 300rwkw isn't that safe.

We have to remember that not everyone wants to go through the expense/drama of a dead motor/rebuild

Fwiw my motor lasted 3 years on 285rwkw pulp and 325rwkw e85 before it finally munched a bearing

That motor was a series 1, 1993 built, 250,000km engine and was a track car of some sort in Japan for god knows how long

Thing saw 7000 revs every time it ran, without fail and was dailied and tracked

End of the day whenever you decide to mod the car and start pushing high 200,s plus on stock engine we all do it knowing all well that theres a chance that the engine might die sooner than expected but theres to many variables how you drive , how much you drive it, and of course the tune.

Of course a car tuned at 350kw which is a daily and never sees all that power being put down will last longer then someone at 280kw thats smashing track work constantly. But atm it seems like the median of what people go on stock is 300kw and also consider running on e85 for abit more security.

This topic has probably been covered a million times but i cant find it.

Just wondering how much a power an rb25 with stock internals can handle all day every day on a safe tune?

My current project is: rb25det (standard motor)

550cc injectors

hks gt2530 turbo

14 psi boost

apexi power fc

z32 afm

hks pod filter

hks fmic

hks 3.5 inch turbo back exhaust

If there is already a write up can someone please let me know.

Cheers

about twice as much as your turbo can deliver.

It's not occasional in this instance (otherwise i totally agree with ya). Back-to-back testing was done by another user that shows that particular hub dyno reads a solid 40-60kw different. That's a bit more than 2 degree change in ambient temperature :thumbsup:

Ash this may interest you as i know your a racepace (killer workshop) fan boy.

We see quite a few cars from Racepace through nowadays and the results we see from our hub dyno are very close to the dyno dynamics dyno (generally 10 up or down) they are running... so hub versus roller is moot.

In fact only last week had a bayside blue R34 gtr with t518z's from there last week which pulled 280kw on mine and he had a dyno sheet for 290 from racepace exact same boost.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...