Jump to content
SAU Community

Gtx3071 Install

scotty nm35
 Share

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 451
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

Erop
Erop

so the best way is to combine cooling mod and swirl tank) i told to my mechanic, he told we will weld custom tank before the summer, to put it conviniently and high in room. now it's time for winter

Posted Images

Sunkist Grand Master

Sunkist

Posted
Posted

Under 10.99sec it's cage time.

I think that would be a pretty cool reason to get kicked out in your STATION WAGON!:whistling:

oh didnt know..

with that amount of tourque before he gets to finish the other wheel bearing might shit itself :rofl2:

Jetwreck Grand Master

Jetwreck

Posted
Posted (edited)

yeh anyone with an aftermarket ecu.

ie craig iain(the ones that have big heads about it) an then others..

If you have an Impul, Gzone, Nismo(also known as Awesome) you don't have speed cut.....but then again I have seen one ECU with nothing on it that does more than 180km's!

P.S. With the weight of our cars I don't think any of us will be putting a cage in!

Edited by Jetwreck
Cihan Newbie

Cihan

Posted
Posted (edited)

Hey guys, FYI i have a similar problem with the VVTI model Supra with e-throttle. The speed signal has to be intercepted differently, something that can't be adjusted with the EMU consistently.

I've always used HKS SLD type limiter removal for the Toyota late model ECU's with success.

The EMU also doesn't lift the RPM limiter correctly with the VQ25, so although its running 1000cc injectors and making smooth numbers - there's more potential in Scotts engine + turbo combination.

Being a 56lb compressor i think we can expect a consistent 310-315 awkw with 500-600rpm more full throttle and a little more top end boost.

This is a really good street / strip combination and i believe even with the 0.82 rear housing there would be enough exhaust side flow to deliver very similar power with less of a lag penalty. If you work out the basic numbers, comp flow in lb/min and exhaust flow at expected power level - the 0.8 turbine housing is great for a street driven 3071 or 3076, and the 1.06 the best fit for the 3076 if we keep the same in/ex mass flow ratio. The 3076 compressor should deliver a very close boost curve but happily make the 23-24psi the engine needs to crank 330-340 odd awkw consistently - a phenomenal number for what could easily be a completely standard engine bay..

I had a little peak at Scott's tear down engine, the standard camshafts are your generic JDM style small duration, reasonable ramp, low lift units. Otherwise the head and intake manifold is well designed and most definitely has the harmonics and effective flow needed for the engine perform very well when the factory choke points have been removed. I think Scott's little experiment shows we're not far off the mark..

If the compressor actually makes another 2-3psi at peak power efficiently - I think that'll be spot on, more than enough for a family barge.. At the moment i don't think that's going to happen, the graphs show comp efficiency falling. Maybe a bigger IC core will help reduce the comp P/R.

--

Yes, my dynometer was re-calibrated since it went in. Each roller unit has a separate controller box, interface board, firmware and load recording device. From my understanding the front roller was running the incorrect firmware and needed to be updated.

Edited by Cihan
scotty nm35 Grand Master

scotty nm35

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thanks Cihan for that info, I know we are onto a goldmine with this engine once the ecu is taken care of. Im still waiting for a Tial .82 rear, it will come soon but im enjoying the power curve regardless. The low end feels much stronger with the large housing so I don't really miss the instant take-off the stock turbo had.

I may go down the HDI intercooler route soon if this one proves a restriction, can we test the pre/post cooler pressures to find how the thing is flowing? I always preferred to have the whole cooler in the airflow but if it doesnt flow enough then the full height core behind the intrusion bar is a must I guess.

I dont think there are off the shelf cams for these but I think a 3.5 build would still be the go rather than cracking this one open as there is no aftermarket support for the 2.5.

How easy was it to fit the SLD and how well did it integrate with the stock Toyota ecu mate? I have always been a little worried about cutting the CAN line but I guess its the only option left for the Emanage tune...

scotty nm35 Grand Master

scotty nm35

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I'm waiting on a donor torque converter for Kewish to hack up, they were hoping a patrol unit may fit with a little modification and strengthening. I would love a 34 Getrag but the costs...

The auto is handling it, so I may as well stay with it for now I guess.

Cihan Newbie

Cihan

Posted
Posted

Scott, we'd have to measure and then model the flow numbers to confirm before hacking up the front bar again, but it may be a worthy consideration depending on the IC's basic design.

Generally it makes SFA difference, but at high boost where the compressor is forced to a higher pressure ratio for a given system flow rate, there can be significant change in actual density at the intake manifold - enough to warrant reconsidering your intercooler setup.

The cams aren't really a concern, we can get them modified without any real headaches. At this stage i wouldn't be concerned with the engines base flow profile, i don't believe its an issue unless you go up a full turbo size (ie. GTX35).

I think what saves the VQ series engines (and VG series) is the broad, well angled ports - fantastic potential for big flow numbers. Plenty of port volume and average ID. So, the heads do OK even with baby cams, which from an emissions point of view is exactly the reason Nissan would have stuck with the design.

There's another IC you should consider, i'll have a chat to you about it next time i pop by.

RE the SLD, its a quick install on the Toyota ECU, direct to the loom. Can't be that bad, we'll figure it out. yes.gif

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Kapr
      RB20DE NEO smallbox clutch.

      By Kapr · Posted

      Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • Kapr
      What brakes on R34 GTT(Europe)

      By Kapr · Posted

      @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Gantai
      R33 GTST Steering Rack (49001-19U05) Rebuild?

      By Gantai · Posted

      Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Gantai
      R33 GTST Steering Rack (49001-19U05) Rebuild?

      By Gantai · Posted

      Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • GTSBoy
      What brakes on R34 GTT(Europe)

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
×
×
  • Create New...