Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

It's the perfect size, I agree wolverine it isnt a monster, but it was certainly laggy without the cams working. It drives perfectly now they are, very strong down low and boost builds solidly from 3k, 26 psi by 4k. Not bad for a 1.06 rear.

It's the perfect size, I agree wolverine it isnt a monster, but it was certainly laggy without the cams working. It drives perfectly now they are, very strong down low and boost builds solidly from 3k, 26 psi by 4k. Not bad for a 1.06 rear.

So is this with the FCON or the Emanage? Or the Emanage piggybacking over the FCON?

lol, 500hp turbo is not a monster.

umm, are you directing something at me?

500hp is not a monster turbo it is a pretty tidy size for these cars and hardly makes a lag monster.

I never said 500hp is ordinary, it simply isn't a lag monster with a modern turbo and decent setup. Personally I would prefer a slightly smaller turbo for street use on a heavy wagon.

Bolt an old T88 on a 25 or 26 then you will see what laaaaaaaag city is like.

Peace be with you btw it isn't a monster either way.

Sorry, When did i say scottys turbo was a lag monster? and that his turbo was the one that i wanted???

I SAY GOOD DAY SIR!!!!

  • 5 months later...

got one of these bolted onto my mates SR20 making about 300ish too...quite a nice turbo...and no their not a lag monster

and boys u know when it says 500hp turbo it doesnt meant the car's gonna be 500hp yer...means the turbo can flow upto 500hp

and boys u know when it says 500hp turbo it doesnt meant the car's gonna be 500hp yer...means the turbo can flow upto 500hp

really!....you mean you cannot get anymore power out of something thats not rated.......even when running E85?

so is the rating the breaking restriction or flow restriction? What motor did they test it on?

Edited by Jetwreck

got one of these bolted onto my mates SR20 making about 300ish too...quite a nice turbo...and no their not a lag monster

and boys u know when it says 500hp turbo it doesnt meant the car's gonna be 500hp yer...means the turbo can flow upto 500hp

how silly do you think us "boys" are ? i KNOW a chinese 1000hp turbo will instantly turn my car into a 7 second vehicle. maybe even 6's if i run optimax

how silly do you think us "boys" are ? i KNOW a chinese 1000hp turbo will instantly turn my car into a 7 second vehicle. maybe even 6's if i run optimax

Whatchoo talkin 'bout Willis? Maybe throw on a couple of Nismo stickers; easy 100 horsepower each.thumbsup.gif

7 posts= Internetz expert.worship.gif

bahaha i was warned about YOU PPL so twitchy n dun read the whole thing

...take a breather ppl....loosen of your xena keyboard warrior princess bra's a bit n read it again...

and as for 7 posts...thats because i recently bought a 32 daily n signed on to buy/sell some parts

i was purely stating that i've SEEN that turbo work in person n its a reaaly good turbo n not like the 'lag monster' u dream boats are all on about

n JETWRECK: of course u can't how much a turbo FLOWS and how much power u have at the wheels is complete different story..u gotta take into account other supporting engine mode (cams, intake, exhaust) , drive train (gearbox, clutch type, diff gears) how heavy ur wheels are lol...but this is all common sense

and E85 is useless unless you go all out with big pumps bigger fuel lines (3/8 minimum) big injectors 1000/1400cc+ at the minimum LONG LIVE POWERPLUS 110 is where its at...readily available, can leave in the tank for months on end without fermenting n burns slower but harder than E85

so there u go that should keep u boys busy for a few more days...i'll check back next week for the next lot of attacks :) bahahaha

bahaha i was warned about YOU PPL so twitchy n dun read the whole thing

...take a breather ppl....loosen of your xena keyboard warrior princess bra's a bit n read it again...

and as for 7 posts...thats because i recently bought a 32 daily n signed on to buy/sell some parts

i was purely stating that i've SEEN that turbo work in person n its a reaaly good turbo n not like the 'lag monster' u dream boats are all on about

n JETWRECK: of course u can't how much a turbo FLOWS and how much power u have at the wheels is complete different story..u gotta take into account other supporting engine mode (cams, intake, exhaust) , drive train (gearbox, clutch type, diff gears) how heavy ur wheels are lol...but this is all common sense

and E85 is useless unless you go all out with big pumps bigger fuel lines (3/8 minimum) big injectors 1000/1400cc+ at the minimum LONG LIVE POWERPLUS 110 is where its at...readily available, can leave in the tank for months on end without fermenting n burns slower but harder than E85

so there u go that should keep u boys busy for a few more days...i'll check back next week for the next lot of attacks :) bahahaha

worship.gif

lolz.......finished yet....Glad you explained it to me!

post-37023-0-20052800-1328216719_thumb.png

Edited by Jetwreck

bahaha i was warned about YOU PPL so twitchy n dun read the whole thing

...take a breather ppl....loosen of your xena keyboard warrior princess bra's a bit n read it again...

and as for 7 posts...thats because i recently bought a 32 daily n signed on to buy/sell some parts

i was purely stating that i've SEEN that turbo work in person n its a reaaly good turbo n not like the 'lag monster' u dream boats are all on about

n JETWRECK: of course u can't how much a turbo FLOWS and how much power u have at the wheels is complete different story..u gotta take into account other supporting engine mode (cams, intake, exhaust) , drive train (gearbox, clutch type, diff gears) how heavy ur wheels are lol...but this is all common sense

and E85 is useless unless you go all out with big pumps bigger fuel lines (3/8 minimum) big injectors 1000/1400cc+ at the minimum LONG LIVE POWERPLUS 110 is where its at...readily available, can leave in the tank for months on end without fermenting n burns slower but harder than E85

so there u go that should keep u boys busy for a few more days...i'll check back next week for the next lot of attacks :) bahahaha

Maybe you should take off your headmasters cap champ; we're not 5 year olds.:thumbsup:

Can't wait for my next lesson in "Howz to turbos my Xena Keyboard"...

Frankly I'm amazed it took you this long to find us; we've all been cluelessly bumbling around in the scary car modding wilderness without you...

Thanks god you're here now.:wub:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...