Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Thanks man.

Mechanical sympathy plays a big part I think. And if the motor goes, then that's that. Ill just get another motor down the line. But that will be a whole new debacle haha.

I am glad you are going with -9's. They are great. :P

I was very lucky with the headlights. One of those once in a lifetime opportunities. Bought them brand new off a guy who works for import monster for half the price.

I also see that I dont have my 1/4 mile PB up on here 11.2 @ 127mph.

http://vid1040.photobucket.com/albums/b406/jacquesvd/Sequence01_1_zps5c9dfec4.mp4

And there will be more videos of hopefully a still running gtr next week :)

Nice video man - I'll have to put down a decent time myself!

You wouldn't happen to be on that GTR Owners Club page?

-9's for the win btw! I just finished building a motor for my set - they really are an awesome turbo!

Do you mean that facebook page? I do believe I'm on there haha. Why's that?

Built motor would be the goods. I'd probably try and see where they run out of puff. I reckon you could get maybe 23/24 psi out of them. That would be some nice power.

Do you mean that facebook page? I do believe I'm on there haha. Why's that?

Built motor would be the goods. I'd probably try and see where they run out of puff. I reckon you could get maybe 23/24 psi out of them. That would be some nice power.

Will push mine next year after the engine refresh and new e85 setup ;)

-9s ftw hahaha

Will have to come track with us next year man ;)

Hahaha you will see them I may even start a build thread if I can be bothered

Will be over 360kw I'm sure by how much who knows more looking for more mid range punch for track

Screw it will instruct tuner to max them hahaha just for the efames lol

Yeh that would be the page ;)

And yes, as for power levels everything under 500hp is safe for street use...so I've been told, but I personally will be capping mine at 450hp or so which seems to be the max for these -9 turbos anway. And that's also keeping track work in mind which I dare say you're pretty keen on? We've all probably heard of those who get away with 600hp on the stock motor...but I wouldn't push a 20 year old uncracked motor that far! You will be bragging for a couple days and then BOOM you will be nicely embarrassed haha

The first thing that goes under higher power are the rod end bolts. (so I was sure to throw a set of those in as well)

Nick is a track fiend. When his car wants to play the game.

Besides, I don't run high boost on the track, low boost is much better for it. And I run a slightly richer tune.

I remember this one guy coming around saying he had 360 or was it 380kw on 9's. Hard to believe If you can't back it up.

I reckon 360 is definitely possible with nines. Couple extra psi and the midrange would be intense. It's all about the power under the curve

Tom my engine is built so I thrash it hahaha run 20-22psi on 98 with my -9s with 350kw

Mainly used on the track these days

Engine coming out for a refresh after a random lean out I'm trying to figure out plus some extra little bits and pieces which will make it even faster on track ;)

All about that response

  • Like 1

Yeh I've just finished building mine...I'm aiming for the 330kw mark with my -9's. As soon as she's tuned up I want to be out on those tracks as often as I can hehe and yes, response is everything! 1500kg car, 2.6L engine...you need that thing to come on properly and soon! ;)

Loving the -9s banter! I also have a set and best thing I ever did was go them over the -5's.

I get 20psi by a little over 4K and makes 470hp. Thats with cams swung hard for response, reckon could easy get 500hp from them on same boost if top end was the goal (e85).

Im in the same boat as you man, good healthy stock internals and pulled sump for RIPS extension and billet gears to try make the stock bottom last.

Like you said its a bit of a lottery, but a good tune and ecu along with mechanical sympathy you should be good.

Another plus on -9s is can set limiter lower, 7500 is high as mine goes as turbos run out of breath above it.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, it's getting like that, my daughter is coming over on Thursday to help me remove the bonnet so I can install the Carbuilders underbonnet stuff,  I might get her to give me a hand and remove the hardtop, maybe, because on really hot days the detachable hardtop helps the aircon keep the interior cool, the heat just punches straight through to rag top I also don't have enough hair for the "wind in the hair" experience, so there is that....LOL
    • Could be falling edge/rising edge is set wrong. Are you getting sync errors?
    • On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
×
×
  • Create New...