Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Yeah, but you are comparing Mitsi's Hero car to Nissan's generic Skyline Aaron.

Hardly fair. Of course the Evo is going to be better than a GTS-T.

Apples and Apples would be to compare the Evo with a GTR...

Btw, I actually really like some Evo's

I don't always PN-Mad, but when I do; I Daleo. ;)

The search is over; AND it's a Nissan.

1982-Old-Renault-Fuego-Turbo-011.jpg

Bam!

You can thank me later. ;)

Also comes with semi's, and they look grippy.

"I don't always de-turbo my VQ35 and buy a RWD Nissan toy, but when I do I Renault..."

  • 3 weeks later...

Well, after cracking the shits, and swearing I'll never do anything but just service the car, I've gone and bought stuff!

8288921749_811acc816c_z.jpg

Plenum I got second hand, pads I got are QFM HPX for the front, and something else for the rear cause it was all that was in stock. Brakes are in preparation for the "CAMS come and try" day happening early next year. Apparently the HPX are rated 150 degrees higher than what I have on the front at the moment.

Hopefully Jez will be able to fit me in for a NA tune early next year, to give me a few more horses to play with.

well the plenum is in, after some help from the guys. First impression is heaps of induction noise. A little bit of resonance at 2600-2700rpm. Feels like some decent gains in the top end of the range, and feels like it does rev a bit freer.

Will be going for a tune early in the year to see if we can't squeeze some more out of it even at this light bolt on stage.

Those 6 middle plenum bolts you mentioned.

Can't believe Nissan tapped them right through.

Thought I was going mad trying to put the bloody thing on. Wish someone would give me some high flow cats....

Well, its a hot day as most of you know. I thought it would be a good idea to strap the laptop in and see what the coolant temps did on the way to work. Medium traffic, city commute to work, AC on.

Highest I got was 85 degrees! It sat neatly on low 80s the whole way, even sitting at lights. Cooling mods are Big mishimoto Rad, Nismo thermostat, Scotty cooling mod, and an ext tranny cooler.

I was pretty damm impressed!

Well, its a hot day as most of you know. I thought it would be a good idea to strap the laptop in and see what the coolant temps did on the way to work. Medium traffic, city commute to work, AC on.

Highest I got was 85 degrees! It sat neatly on low 80s the whole way, even sitting at lights. Cooling mods are Big mishimoto Rad, Nismo thermostat, Scotty cooling mod, and an ext tranny cooler.

I was pretty damm impressed!

That's pretty good Alex, nothing over 85 is a great result; looks like Scotty's cooling mod is my next move.

What was ambient temp?

Edited by Daleo

That cooling setup is pretty awesome. Mine peaked yesterday at 88 degrees - ambient was 44!

Do you have the airbox fitted Alex? Interesting that your intake temps are very similar to mine.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • perhaps i should have mentioned, I plugged the unit in before i handed over to the electronics repair shop to see what damaged had been caused and the unit worked (ac controls, rear demister etc) bar the lights behind the lcd. i would assume that the diode was only to control lighting and didnt harm anything else i got the unit back from the electronics repair shop and all is well (to a point). The lights are back on and ac controls are working. im still paranoid as i beleive the repairer just put in any zener diode he could find and admitted asking chatgpt if its compatible   i do however have another issue... sometimes when i turn the ignition on, the climate control unit now goes through a diagnostics procedure which normally occurs when you disconnect and reconnect but this may be due to the below   to top everything off, and feel free to shoot me as im just about to do it myself anyway, while i was checking the newly repaired board by plugging in the climate control unit bare without the housing, i believe i may have shorted it on the headunit surround. Climate control unit still works but now the keyless entry doesnt work along with the dome light not turning on when you open the door. to add to this tricky situation, when you start the car and remove the key ( i have a turbo timer so car remains on) the keyless entry works. the dome light also works when you switch to the on position. fuses were checked and all ok ive deduced that the short somehow has messed with the smart entry control module as that is what controls the keyless entry and dome light on door opening   you guys wouldnt happen to have any experience with that topic lmao... im only laughing as its all i can do right now my self diagnosed adhd always gets me in a situation as i have no patience and want to get everything done in shortest amount of time as possible often ignoring crucial steps such as disconnecting battery when stuffing around with electronics or even placing a simple rag over the metallic headunit surround when placing a live pcb board on top of it   FML
    • Bit of a pity we don't have good images of the back/front of the PCB ~ that said, I found a YT vid of a teardown to replace dicky clock switches, and got enough of a glimpse to realize this PCB is the front-end to a connected to what I'll call PCBA, and as such this is all digital on this PCB..ergo, battery voltage probably doesn't make an appearance here ; that is, I'd expect them to do something on PCBA wrt power conditioning for the adjustment/display/switch PCB.... ....given what's transpired..ie; some permutation of 12vdc on a 5vdc with or without correct polarity...would explain why the zener said "no" and exploded. The transistor Q5 (M33) is likely to be a digital switching transistor...that is, package has builtin bias resistors to ensure it saturates as soon as base threshold voltage is reached (minimal rise/fall time)....and wrt the question 'what else could've fried?' ....well, I know there's an MCU on this board (display, I/O at a guess), and you hope they isolated it from this scenario...I got my crayons out, it looks a bit like this...   ...not a lot to see, or rather, everything you'd like to see disappears down a via to the other side...base drive for the transistor comes from somewhere else, what this transistor is switching is somewhere else...but the zener circuit is exclusive to all this ~ it's providing a set voltage (current limited by the 1K3 resistor R19)...and disappears somewhere else down the via I marked V out ; if the errant voltage 'jumped' the diode in the millisecond before it exploded, whatever that V out via feeds may have seen a spike... ....I'll just imagine that Q5 was switched off at the time, thus no damage should've been done....but whatever that zener feeds has to be checked... HTH
    • I think Fitmit had some, have a look on there (theyre Australian as well)
    • Hah, fair enough! But if you learn with this one you can drive any other OEM manual. No modern luxury features like auto rev-matching or hillstart assist to give you a false sense of confidence. And a heavy car with not that much torque so it stalls easily. 
×
×
  • Create New...