Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i will buy this in a heart beat if i had the $$

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/388726-phat-r32-4-door/

I would buy this in a heartbeat if I had the $$$...

Oh wait I do, so I did. Emotionally impulsive purchase is emotionally impulsive.

$(KGrHqEOKnIE44R2dbwLBOZdEW7BRg~~60_12.JPG

$(KGrHqIOKpUE5(oPPL8SBOh5jU7Wd!~~60_12.JPG

$(KGrHqUOKi8E55!0rnzgBOh5iZGwew~~60_12.JPG

i will buy this in a heart beat if i had the $$

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/388726-phat-r32-4-door/

Couldn't you just sell your car and get it?

Those Varrstoen rims look quite nice in 18's. Pretty much like Te 37's with dish that are in 19's.

oh wowowowow nice birds!

congrats bro.

tony, i could.. i had a dude call last night offering me 13 with a roady. i told him what the deal with insurance is so were waiting till ti get assessed tomorrow

I like how in that Stanceworks thread the general consensus seems to be "Some dickhead in a non stanced car will show up at a meet and pull a skid and that will draw more attention to our already illegal mods" You modify yourcar knowing full well tat your mods are bordering on or well out of legality and as much as you don't enjoy it you cop it and do what you've gotta do to get shit cleared.

Not helping me fight the urge...

I fought for as long as I could. Join us!

Congrats man :thumbsup: that's an 08 yeah? Best looking one imo

Yup 08 and I agree...the engine on the 09+ is pretty trick but I don't really like the headlights and for $3-4k more...fk that.

oh wowowowow nice birds!

congrats bro.

tony, i could.. i had a dude call last night offering me 13 with a roady. i told him what the deal with insurance is so were waiting till ti get assessed tomorrow

I call bs until it sells...you get these "offers" on a weekly basis lol.

End of the day these "stance" kids created nothing. All they did was take someone else's idea and run with it a little harder, lifestyle blog, market it etc etc. They only have themselves to blame for what it has become.

True,

For example, "Stance" / "Fitment" has been around since the 1970's in Japan.

Oni-kyan, Shakotan and Hippari Tire were and are the 3 main elements.

Might think about that actually. Some of them come with gold wheels which look trick, where as black is always easier to keep clean...well not keep clean, but keep from showing scratches and chain lube / dirt. Am ecstatic...and now to tell my mother I've become a temporary citizen again :ermm:

Still more than likely to go for my license in march, then buy bike at some stage after that. They'll be cheaper as the warmer weather fades away.

Black (if I find one in black at the right price/condition etc) ninja to start, but eventually it'll be an all black gixxer

PM'd.

Ye get some more gold influence and it looks teh pr0n.

There is one out the front of my work i see all the time.

He's got a whole heap of extra bits re-done in gold. It looks fken amazing

Was talking to Charlie about doing some touch ups, like black brake/clutch levers with R1 engraved on them in gold etc. Foot pegs, fuel cap etc. For now I'm pretty happy with how it all is...the previous owner did a good job with tinted glass, the carbon Yoshi slip ons, tail/fender tidy. Still have the original bits too...not that it really matters...unlike cars, bikes don't really depreciate with mods lol.

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • When I said "wiring diagram", I meant the car's wiring diagram. You need to understand how and when 12V appears on certain wires/terminals, when 0V is allowed to appear on certain wires/terminals (which is the difference between supply side switching, and earth side switching), for the way that the car is supposed to work without the immobiliser. Then you start looking for those voltages in the appropriate places at the appropriate times (ie, relay terminals, ECU terminals, fuel pump terminals, at different ignition switch positions, and at times such as "immediately after switching to ON" and "say, 5-10s after switching to ON". You will find that you are not getting what you need when and where you need it, and because you understand what you need and when, from working through the wiring diagram, you can then likely work out why you're not getting it. And that will lead you to the mess that has been made of the associated wires around the immobiliser. But seriously, there is no way that we will be able to find or lead you to the fault from here. You will have to do it at the car, because it will be something f**ked up, and there are a near infinite number of ways for it to be f**ked up. The wiring diagram will give you wire colours and pin numbers and so you can do continuity testing and voltage/time probing and start to work out what is right and what is wrong. I can only close my eyes and imagine a rat's nest of wiring under the dash. You can actually see and touch it.
    • So I found this: https://www.efihardware.com/temperature-sensor-voltage-calculator I didn't know what the pullup resistor is. So I thought if I used my table of known values I could estimate it by putting a value into the pullup resistor, and this should line up with the voltages I had measured. Eventually I got this table out of it by using 210ohms as the pullup resistor. 180C 0.232V - Predicted 175C 0.254V - Predicted 170C 0.278V - Predicted 165C 0.305V - Predicted 160C 0.336V - Predicted 155C 0.369V - Predicted 150C 0.407V - Predicted 145C 0.448V - Predicted 140C 0.494V - Predicted 135C 0.545V - Predicted 130C 0.603V - Predicted 125C 0.668V - Predicted 120C 0.740V - Predicted 115C 0.817V - Predicted 110C 0.914V - Predicted 105C 1.023V - Predicted 100C 1.15V 90C 1.42V - Predicted 85C 1.59V 80C 1.74V 75C 1.94V 70C 2.10V 65C 2.33V 60C 2.56V 58C 2.68V 57C 2.70V 56C 2.74V 55C 2.78V 54C 2.80V 50C 2.98V 49C 3.06V 47C 3.18V 45C 3.23V 43C 3.36V 40C 3.51V 37C 3.67V 35C 3.75V 30C 4.00V As before, the formula in HPTuners is here: https://www.hptuners.com/documentation/files/VCM-Scanner/Content/vcm_scanner/defining_a_transform.htm?Highlight=defining a transform Specifically: In my case I used 50C and 150C, given the sensor is supposedly for that. Input 1 = 2.98V Output 1 = 50C Input 2 = 0.407V Output 2 = 150C (0.407-2.98) / (150-50) -2.573/100 = -0.02573 2.98/-0.02573 + 47.045 = 50 So the corresponding formula should be: (Input / -0.02573) + 47.045 = Output.   If someone can confirm my math it'd be great. Supposedly you can pick any two pairs of the data to make this formula.
    • Well this shows me the fuel pump relay is inside the base of the drivers A Pillar, and goes into the main power wire, and it connects to the ignition. The alarm is.... in the base of the drivers A Pillar. The issue is that I'm not getting 12v to the pump at ignition which tells me that relay isn't being triggered. AVS told me the immobiliser should be open until the ignition is active. So once ignition is active, the immobiliser relay should be telling that fuel pump relay to close which completes the circuit. But I'm not getting voltage at the relay in the rear triggered by the ECU, which leaves me back at the same assumption that that relay was never connected into the immobiliser. This is what I'm trying to verify, that my assumption is the most likely scenario and I'll go back to the alarm tech yet again that he needs to fix his work.      Here is the alarms wiring diagram, so my assumption is IM3A, IM3B, or both, aren't connected or improper. But this is all sealed up, with black wiring, and loomed  
    • Ceste, jak se mas Marek...sorry I only have english keyboard. Are you a fan of Poland's greatest band ever?   
×
×
  • Create New...