Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Just le' Skyline and Barina at the moment.

Once things settle down i'll get a GTR for myself and a family car for the missus. Probably some sort of Beemer/Accord Euro or anything that is nice too drive that has 4 doors.

Who'd u go through tony? Blue Nile seems popular and i can't remember the name of the other place

Or did jeweller do it all?

+1 on the invite

Think he meant wedding cars brah

Edited by alr33x

Who'd u go through tony? Blue Nile seems popular and i can't remember the name of the other place

Or did jeweller do it all?

+1 on the invite

Think he meant wedding cars brah

Blue nile is good, I was going to buy it from there. Their stock range is massive, only issue I had was that you can't actually see the diamond.

I went with JamesAllen.com. They have pictures of the actual diamond, which is important if you are looking for inclusions.

From then you can pick a couple and then an opinion from a geologist of their opinion of what they can believe is the best diamond out of the few diamonds you have picked.

Blue nile is good, I was going to buy it from there. Their stock range is massive, only issue I had was that you can't actually see the diamond.

I went with JamesAllen.com. They have pictures of the actual diamond, which is important if you are looking for inclusions.

From then you can pick a couple and then an opinion from a geologist of their opinion of what they can believe is the best diamond out of the few diamonds you have picked.

I spent a little more, 5-10% to go though a jeweler, only as they have a guarantee, ie when it arrives if I'm unhappy with it I can decline it.

as for tiffanies, the one we wanted there was close to 30K.....said jeweler is doing same setting in platinum for around 1/3 the price.

gotta have a wasteland table brah dont forget the invites :P

Just be prepared to bring a machete, as the last Viet/Cambo wedding I went to someone got bottled :wacko:

I spent a little more, 5-10% to go though a jeweler, only as they have a guarantee, ie when it arrives if I'm unhappy with it I can decline it.

as for tiffanies, the one we wanted there was close to 30K.....said jeweler is doing same setting in platinum for around 1/3 the price.

Yeah for piece of mind, being able to see it in person can't go wrong with a local jeweller. I would say when choosing a diamond, one with a GIA certificate is preferable.

Bluenile do offer a 60 day money back guarantee no questions asked, but being in America it would be a pain in the ass if you did have to return it.

yeah this is a GIA one,

we went thought a few found one that was right size and color and clarity, he investigated it was all good so shipping it over, he will do another check then we get to come in and confirm it.

plus he came recommended from 3-4 of Katie's friends for doing their custom rings.

should have finished product in 2-3 weeks

Don't know how you can still use a 3, mine was so slow by the time I got rid of it I was lucky not to throw it at a wall everytime I used it..

I'm still using a 3GS. Battery life is starting to die in the arse as I've had it for 3 years.

think the bike will be sitting under cover for a while

probably a bad idea buying one this time of year....

fyl

Sunday is looking dry, will try to organise a ride.

yeah this is a GIA one,

we went thought a few found one that was right size and color and clarity, he investigated it was all good so shipping it over, he will do another check then we get to come in and confirm it.

plus he came recommended from 3-4 of Katie's friends for doing their custom rings.

should have finished product in 2-3 weeks

Got a picture?

You too Alex, somewhere on the T & Co website?

Our one should look similar to this one:

428195_195099617264453_192312800876468_323324_180062923_n.jpg

If it's that lighter coloured blue, then I think you should stick to silver wheels...

its gun metal grey with a bit of blue through it.

As long as Rimon is on our table we'll be fine

rofl.

hole cut under the battery in an R32 GTST for the intercooler, confusion as to whether i cover it up or not, as ill just be making a hole again after i get a rwc...

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
    • Nah, that is hella wrong. If I do a simple linear between 150°C (0.407v) and 50°C (2.98v) I get the formula Temperature = -38.8651*voltage + 165.8181 It is perfectly correct at 50 and 150, but it is as much as 20° out in the region of 110°C, because the actual data is significantly non-linear there. It is no more than 4° out down at the lowest temperatures, but is is seriously shit almost everywhere. I cannot believe that the instruction is to do a 2 point linear fit. I would say the method I used previously would have to be better.
×
×
  • Create New...