Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

No it's not, I was getting chased by highway patrol through Campbellfield industrials just before

Just made set of lights so he couldn't go through, there were cops everywhere

Just minding your own business in an industrial area hey Nick?

:ninja:

Tax return?

$(KGrHqR,!l4E87y3-05ZBPlU3vW0TQ~~60_35.JPG

+

ECA-red_180x131.gif

+

dyno.gif

Might have to do the same thing Birds, I don't think the sensor fuel lines are big enough though, does it have to plumb into the main fuel feed or is a secondary return line enough?

Not that I don't believe you were getting chased, but why would a cop car let a set of lights stop them from getting you? Last guy who got me went through 4 reds to pull me over for a "random" inspection*.

*later told me he'd spent the whole afternoon pulling over anything with four round tail lights, including Pat's 32.

Haha he was one of the better cops. Just told me to drop into vicroads to get the wheels inspected. Told me to throw on some stockies. No fine or Rwc required.

The one who EPA'd me is another story...

Might have to do the same thing Birds, I don't think the sensor fuel lines are big enough though, does it have to plumb into the main fuel feed or is a secondary return line enough?

Should be fine for flow, they don't look any smaller than fuel filter lines. If all you're using it for is to get a content reading, you could mount it anywhere in the fuel system. Most stick it in the return line, straight after rail; guess the less flow restriction you have going to the fuel rail, the better. Haltech have their own sensor which is more "inline" and having the same signal voltage, should also be compatible with the Zeitronix ECA:

$(KGrHqNHJ!sE+Nif0(JLBP1f1WD-9w~~60_12.JPG

and if it doesnt go ahead im just gonna put it up.

im over japan now.

i actually do want a ford.

I've found most 'JDM' owners go ford after getting over the jap cars

I was considering an evo, just the 4 cycl thing put me off :P also wouldn't really be any better cop wise

Get a tuned ford and you can have super fun times without the cop trouble, they handle better than you'd think - big cars for parking though

i'm done too... it's EVO time as soon as the boat sells

man i'm gonna miss going sailing though :/

i'll probably put it up in a week when i know how my job interview goes :D

another interview? within nab?

good luck bud. and nah just want to keep away from turbo and all of that shiz in general

I've found most 'JDM' owners go ford after getting over the jap cars

I was considering an evo, just the 4 cycl thing put me off :P also wouldn't really be any better cop wise

Get a tuned ford and you can have super fun times without the cop trouble, they handle better than you'd think - big cars for parking though

man no more modding for me. time to grow up and start investing instead of bunching the money up and throwing it at a bin.

probably just the later model ford. or just anything normal realy and not so modified. even the beamers have come a heap down in price.

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So stock ECU does not like anything above 10 psi?  That Nistune one is just for "try" if it will be any different, I know it need to be tune for that. I know but YOU may know about these problem but i/we dont. They few little Skylines here let alone people who know anything about tham so that is why iam asking here  
    • So now we have a radiator with no attachments whatsoever. It lifts up with a particularly tight spot between the drivers side air box mount and the lower radiator outlet, but if you've got this far you will sort that too. This is the lower mounts with the rad out so you can see where the rubber bushes go, it is a straight shot upwards Done! Assembly is the reverse of disassembly, with blood less likely to be shed.
    • Right, onto the second last trick. The Air Con condenser is mounted to the front of the radiator and stays in the car when the radiator is removed. There are 2x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the condenser to the radiator, remove those The bottom of the condenser is attached to the radiator with clips. You need to lift the condenser out of those clips and clear (up, then forward). f**ked if  could work out how to do that last bit with the front bumper on. I hope you can, and you share the trick.  Bumper removal probably deserves its own thread one day once I've recovered the will to live, but basically you need to remove the wheels, front inner guard liners (clips and 10mm headed bolts), the self tapper between the guard and the bumper at the rearmost point of the bumper (same as an R32 that bit), any remaining clips at the top/front of the grill, an absolute bastard design with a plate that holds the top of the bumper above the headlight each side (only 1 bolt which is tricky to get to, but the plate catches 2 places on the bumper and must be removed....carefully!) and push clips between the bumper and guard under the headlight. If you've done all that you will be faced with wiring for the fog lights on both sides and in ADM Q50 RS at least, 4 nasty tight plugs on the driver's side for the ADAS stuff. So, the clips at the bottom look like this on drivers side (looking from the front) And on the passenger side (also from the front), you can see this one is already out Clearance on both of these are super tight; the condenser needs to move up but the upper rad support mount prevents that, and the radiator can't move down far because it is (rubber) mounted. Once you achieve the impossible and drop the condenser off those mounts so it does not stop the rad moving, you are good to go
    • OK, next the shroud needs to come off and there are a couple of tricks. Firstly, there is a loom from near the passenger side headlight to the fans, coolant temp sensor etc and there is no plug to undo.  In my case I was OK to leave the shroud on top of the engine so I just undid the passenger side fan plug and about 10 of the clips which gave enough free wire to put it aside. The fan plugs were super tight, the trick I used was a small falt screwdriver to push down on the release tab, then a larger flat screwdriver to lever the plug out of the fan unit....be careful with how much force you apply! If you need to remove the shroud altogether for some reason you will have to deal with all the plugs (tight) and clips (brittle)....good luck. I removed all of the clips and replaced them with cable ties that I will just cut next time. Also, in the Red Sport / 400R at least, the intake heat exchanger reservoir hose is bolted to the shroud in 2 places with 10mm headed bolts; so remove them (the hose stays in the car; no need to undo it at the t fittings down at the radiator lower mount. Once you've dealt with the HX hose and the wiring loom, there are 3x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the shroud to the radiator; remove those.   The shroud then lifts out of the bottom mounts where it sits on the radiator, up and onto the engine out of the way. Simples
    • Ok, disregard my “rate them” comment, sorry for my unrealistic input
×
×
  • Create New...