Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I broke a Kinchrome 3/8" ratchet and breaker with jack handle over the end trying to undo different rears. If you have a 1/2" socket and breaker it'll do it a lot easier than the smaller stuff.

My breaker is a 1/2" but my sockets are 3/8", used an adapated to fit the 3/8" sockets.

Time to upgrade to proper better tools i suppose...

lol Mohson, that's not cool!

So is that how the stanceworks crew mod there cars? hahah jk

I bought a breaker bar earlier today, thanks though Martin. Will definitely keep you in mind though!

DIY chaning coilovers, it'll be fun they said.

Next minute, socket piece slit almost in half. ..... that thing is crap tight!

So right now, I've only got my left rear coilover in. Car sits like it's got crooked legs or something.

Back to bunnings to buy a new socket piece dammit.

Hahah. Yeah technically it's not a big job, but when you don't have the right tools, it can be pretty annoying! I think I couldn't find a 12 (or something or another) for the life of me, and I needed it at one stage when taking out the rear seats, and was just like... Well, feck. But luckily my mate had tools :P.

How much was shipping to aus?

$20 (international express). So all up, still cheaper than HN by far. $419 all up. Very good value proposition. Ideally could have gotten a bumper or charging orb if only they were in stock / available, as it's a flat shipping fee.

If I bought one now. would they have stock, and how often does stock come. Cause i remember there being a huge backorder for it.

They appear to have stock under control now, considering after selling out again last Thursday, they're back in stock less than a week later, today. Noting it says expect 2-3 weeks for delivery. But that's just google underpromising, just in case something happens (considering how quickly people are receiving their phones).

we used the blowtorch from my kitchen LOL

Please explain why did you had to use blowtorch to undo the bolts on your coilovers?

I think you've told me why but for the life of me I can't remember why.

heat makes metal expand, then when it cools it contracts a tiny bit and it breaks free.

just dont do it with an industrial blow torch directly on the CAS to remove it without asking the customer then tell them they will probably need a new crank when they pick it up like a certain workshop did to a member here

Cheap/wrong tools cost more in the end.

when you have to replace them/the bits you broke multiple times false economy.

buy them one and buy them right, and get the correct tool for the job.

The amount of cheap tools I've gone through...

Sidchrome set has not failed once in the now 2 years of having it

Cheap/wrong tools cost more in the end.

when you have to replace them/the bits you broke multiple times false economy.

buy them one and buy them right, and get the correct tool for the job.

Links to a decent tool set that has everything? I might make a start to pull apart my engine whilst its sitting in my garage

I had some cheap tools that served me good for a while, but thief decided to help himself to my tool set.

Links to a decent tool set that has everything? I might make a start to pull apart my engine whilst its sitting in my garage

I had some cheap tools that served me good for a while, but thief decided to help himself to my tool set.

cheap set of tools that have everything:

456x330.jpg

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Oh, also, forgot to add these photos I believe.
    • Thought i'd update on this. I was able to get in contact with Craig Lieberman and later on Darryl Alison (owner of Kaizo Industries). Darryl was able to help me verify that my car was in fact one of theirs and is helping me find more info on mine !
    • There's restrictor pills in the stock boost control hoses. That's how they set the amount that was bled off and hence the "high" boost setting. The usual mod in the day was to remove it and send the "high" boost setting up to about 14 psi.
    • Thanks Duncan, that's the best info I've read. Furthermore after learning about the PCM programming side controlling the factory boost solenoid, the purpose of the solenoid is to "bleed" boost when pin 25 is earthed, thus allowing spring pressure in the wastegate actuator to overcome diaphragm boost pressure, thus closing or reducing the position of the wastegate flap creating more boost as the turbo is able to spin faster. It's pretty cool to see a designated Pill to do exactly this, would have liked to have seen it with a tiny filter over the end for those moments in vacuum.  The constant bleed pill has now been removed completely from the system and solenoid boost control has been restored once again.   Case closed 😂
    • The wideband reading is meaningless if it's not running. Why are you using shitty old sidefeeds on any engine, let alone a Neo? What manifold and fuel rail are you using to achieve that? Beyond that, can't help you with AEM stuff as I've never been their ECU/CAS combo.
×
×
  • Create New...