Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Alvin and Tony!

You guys bought your coilpacks from Amayama yet????

Think I need some as my stag just started misfiring/hesitating after about 4k..... it just happens every now and then though, could be coilpacks right guys?

Check coil packs or sparkplugs

Lol Aaron. You do realise that curries are at the wrong end of the scale with regard to average penis size. We aren't black brah.

I was going to let it slide.... but since you mentioned it...

13d.jpg

It is likely your thrust bearing rattling around in a resting state; there is nothing wrong with this. They tend to do this a lot in Skylines, as the thrust bearing will sit fairly flush against the pressure plate, which moves it around on the input shaft retainer. The moment you put your foot on the clutch pedal, it puts enough pressure on the bearing to press it firmly against the pressure plate, making the outside of the bearing engage whilst the inside is held firm in place by the clutch fork. You can spray lithium grease inside (stay away from the clutch area) to quieten the rattle a bit, or you can try to adjust your clutch so that the resting state of the clutch fork doesn't have the bearing sitting as close to the pressure plate.

Yes changing pivot ball is box out. Unless you have some very special tools, a keyhole surgery camera and a f**kload of patience.

How do I do this?

I might try the grease option, or adjusting the pedal. Is it bad to have the bearing tight against the pressure plate all the time?

How do I do this?

I might try the grease option, or adjusting the pedal. Is it bad to have the bearing tight against the pressure plate all the time?

Try the grease first...that fixed my rattle sound. You basically want to grease the length of the input shaft retainer, because that's what the bearing is spinning around on and causing the rattle sound. You can adjust the pedal in the driver footwell, or by grinding some material off your slave cylinder pushrod / putting in a smaller rod.

As in simulatIng your foot resting on the pedal? It's not lethal, but also not fantastic for the bearing over time. There's no heavy weight on the ball bearings inside, but the bearing is not meant to be taking load 24/7...so it will likely reduce the life of the bearing...but it's a bit like saying it'll last you 100,000km instead of 150,000km.

I think my NPC bearing is fairly firmly pressed against the pressure plate and it has worn it a bit...I can feel it through the pedal. I have a hydraulic issue causing this though; the resting clutch fork pressure increases as the system heats up or climate becomes warmer.

Unless the rattle is very loud, it's nothing to worry about. As said, all Skylines do it. Grease will quieten it for a bit and you may have to do it again every oil change or so.

See? Pretty self explanatory

I find it funny that the whitest people on this forum are also the blackest, lol you birds and ric..

:rofl:

We all black...when the lights go out...

And pink on the inside...

Try the grease first...that fixed my rattle sound. You basically want to grease the length of the input shaft retainer, because that's what the bearing is spinning around on and causing the rattle sound. You can adjust the pedal in the driver footwell, or by grinding some material off your slave cylinder pushrod / putting in a smaller rod.

As in simulatIng your foot resting on the pedal? It's not lethal, but also not fantastic for the bearing over time. There's no heavy weight on the ball bearings inside, but the bearing is not meant to be taking load 24/7...so it will likely reduce the life of the bearing...but it's a bit like saying it'll last you 100,000km instead of 150,000km.

I think my NPC bearing is fairly firmly pressed against the pressure plate and it has worn it a bit...I can feel it through the pedal. I have a hydraulic issue causing this though; the resting clutch fork pressure increases as the system heats up or climate becomes warmer.

Unless the rattle is very loud, it's nothing to worry about. As said, all Skylines do it. Grease will quieten it for a bit and you may have to do it again every oil change or so.

Ah ok, thanks for that! I don't mind having to reapply, anything to shut the damn thing up.

If the grease doesn't fix it I'll just push the pedal down further, my motor will probably let go before the bearing does lol

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...