Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

my boost gauge doesn't show any boost spike, goes to 10psi but settles down to 9psi.
During the misfiring revving pass 4k rpm, it makes a constant popping from my rear muffler from what I can tell.

I don't even know, I've been sitting here looking for excuses not to let it go...

evos are crappy little girls cars....is that reason enough...need another, your gfs car is cooler (almost) :P

Ed* oh wait you said excuses NOT to let it go...sorry I got nuthink..

1.1 is a bit big for turbo applications I thought. 0.8 is more common, stronger arc.

1.1 is standard for the rb25 but .8 is the norm for anything modded...

I just go to bursons and ask for rb20 plugs usually..they are the bpr6 blahdy blah whatever they are the ones you want :yes:

Still got it, need a normal one for roardworthy

Good for pho Sunday morning or lunch

Could even do Yum Cha

I bon bo hue

I'll let Alvin pick

my fav bun bo hue is in st albans, i dont think you guys want to drive that far right?

though yum cha @ gold leaf springy/burwood sounds good oto.

did you seriously just read all that crap we wrote to Pat about plug gaps THEN put in 1.1's already put them in? lol

take out plugs and gap to 0.8

missfire will mysteriously vanish

did you seriously just read all that crap we wrote to Pat about plug gaps THEN put in 1.1's already put them in? lol

take out plugs and gap to 0.8

missfire will mysteriously vanish

Lol as far as I'm aware, plugs wear by creating a larger gap. As the 1.1's wear they grow to 1.2+

This is when you start having misfires

It you start at 0,8 they will wear down to 0.9, 1.0

Drop to 0.8 if misfiring. Although I'm getting away with 1.1's at 220kw :)

Lol as far as I'm aware, plugs wear by creating a larger gap. As the 1.1's wear they grow to 1.2+

This is when you start having misfires

It you start at 0,8 they will wear down to 0.9, 1.0

Drop to 0.8 if misfiring. Although I'm getting away with 1.1's at 220kw :)

I'm only running fmic and exhaust, boost sitting on 9psi after those mods.

Thought I'll be alright with 1.1mm since not running much power, shall re-gap to 0.8mm and perhaps coilpacks.

Misfiring better go away before deca!

 

Drop to 0.8 if misfiring. Although I'm getting away with 1.1's at 220kw :)

 

Misfiring isn't only from increased pressure in the cylinder, it is caused by excessive amounts of fuel also. If they are running good AFR's in the top end and cylinder pressure is under control they should be able to run 1.1mm just fine, if not the coil packs may be flogged.

You are right, plugs do wear slowly. If they are wearing fast you may be overheating them, perhaps try a BPR7.

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Just had this happen to me too.  R32 GTR.   Also broke "just before going out onto the track" - someone up there is looking out for us... Very scary since I was about to do a narrow street course with zero run-off and curbs everywhere. Many people on here upgrading to billet uprights and R35 bearings?   Or buying new OEM knuckles?  I am not keen to replace with another s/h 30 year old fatigued part.
    • Top off with distilled water and see what happens. If you keep losing coolant then you know to start looking.
    • Nope.    Grab a varex and turn it down as you get close to home, win win? 
    • So, I've had my V36 for about a month now and have already copped an "excessive exhaust noise" notification from QLD TMR, reported by someone in my local area. It's a twin as per the original, and can have a bit of a throaty note to it when idling cold 😄 and if I do get up it a bit, it can be noisy, but it did pass a roadworthy inspection before sale, so.... ... but in the interest of being a good neighbour, I do want to quieten it down a bit. Is anyone here running a quiet aftermarket cat-back on their V36 or 370Z? And the big, bold question: does an aftermarket cat-back really make much of a performance difference on these cars?
    • The wiring diagram for the R33 RB25 is freely available, and is essentially the same same as most other RBs (just with differences as to which pin # does which job). To get the ECU to power up, you just need to provide power to the ECCS relay, and have the other power feeds that come in from the top left of the wiring diagram (wrt the ECU) that give perma power to the fuel pump relay, the ECU itself, etc etc, all connected. When you put power on all these it will just come to life. It's pretty clear from the diagram what needs to happen. Just follow the lines from the 12V + supply stuff in the top left over towards the ECU. I've even posted snips of such diagrams (not for vanilla 25, I think for Neo and 26) to various threads here in the last few months, talking about what it takes to get the fuel pump and FPCM up and going. Search these up and they will help get you started on doing the same with the vanilla 25 diagram. Hell, for all I know, I've done the same with that one in years past and have forgotten.
×
×
  • Create New...