Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

You can make your own. The most important things are the scanner and printer. You need both very high quality.


Many scanners contain anti-countefeit software which don't allow you to scan money. This can easily be bypassed by flipping the note vertically.


For the printer you might want to get an offset printing press that have an inked plate and negatives that are reverse shot, such as the popular Ab Dick 360 which is used by many professional counterfeiters. Statistics say 1 in 10,000 $100 USD bills are high quality fakes printed from these. The U.S. Treasury uses 30 tons of gravure printing force to print money. Unless you have a very large bankroll of capital investment, you won't come close.

A very high DPI laser printer might do, but the Secret Service has most high-end printers installed with software that makes unique fingerprints on your printed paper. Don't believe me? Try shining a flashlight with a blue LED on a piece of paper you print from a high-end printer. The software prints little yellowish, light dots on the paper.


Since 1996, the US started putting watermarks and metal security strips inside the bills. My method will bypass both the iodine ink test, and the watermark test (holding the bill up to the light to see the President's face).

Because money is made of about 3/4 cotton and 1/4 linen embedded with silk fibers, iodine pens do not leave a mark. The paper for money is produced by one and only one company only: Crane & Co, which are the only government contractors signed to print the money which are shipped to US government Treasury department in armored vehicles to be ready to print money. Very few have gotten away with robbing these trucks to counterfeit high quality $100 bills. You don't need to risk this in order to print very good counterfeit money! My method works just as well. The only test my method does not pass is the UV light test that they use at banks to determine counterfeit money. Unfortunately.

The actual formula for the paper is a government secret, so nobody knows exactly how to make it. I'm a chemist PhD, so I've tried in my personal time many different methods and none of them are successful. Cotton bonding doesn't work, spraying blank newspaper with hairspray, etc. It's almost like conjuring the exact formula for Coca Cola or the Big Mac sauce. You can come close and even replicate the exact flavour, but you will most likely never come up with the exact and perfect formulae.


Steps:


1) Put masking tape over the serial number, just enough to cover it, then cut it in half so you cover just the numerical values. So when you print out new bills, you have the original number and the printed template will have the number on the tape. This will give unique values as opposed to the same numbers repeatedly over and over again.


2) Use concrete dripper to fill a pan. Put a $5 bill in it. We use $5 because it's the lowest denomination we can sacrifice that has a watermark and metal security strip.


3) Use a 1" wide soft bristle brush for about 3 minutes, stroking the bill back and forth with it. Flip the bill over and repeat, then take out the bill and let it dry. Poof! All the ink is magically gone. Now we have the actual note from the U.S. Bureau of Engraving and Printing.

Acetone, bleach, nor Oxyclean do not remove the ink, contrary to belief. Lye in liquid form, which concrete stripped have, is the way to go.


4) Photoshop the $100 bill to fit the 8x11 paper for printing. Make sure it's good quality and resolution. Zoom in and check every nook and cranny of detail. Some photo editing software may have anti-counterfeit measures built in them too. You can reverse vertically to bypass this in most cases.

Lighten the background because real money has a beigish color. Blank bills are a manilla colour so the printer will enhance that and the paper will be printed darker as such.


5) Now take your printed 8x11 and put a few (four is optimal) layers of very light glue stick on the very tip of the edges on the washed paper then paste it exactly on the 8x11 paper where the printing is, then print it again on the exact same spot, but on the real note.


6) Peel the new printed bill and the front is now finished. Now you can remove the masking tape to disclose the serial number.


7) On the side you printed, use the glued edges to glue over the printed template of the reverse and reload it into the printer to print the back of the bill and now peel the template off.


DONE

If you lightened the template enough and your printer is of good color quality tone, now you have a shiny new $100 bill!

My formula makes three bills per sheet.


You should crinkle the bill up a bit so it feels real, but just know that without a REAL printer, it will NEVER feel like the real thing. Again, as I've stated before, US Treasury uses 30 tons of force to press ink on their notes. Which is why the the quality of your equipment is very important in counterfeitting. If you don't want to get caught, USE EXPENSIVE/HQ MACHINES


Hope this helped. I've used this method for the past decade or so and have never gotten caught, or even had anyone be suspicious. Just don't do anything dumb. Also obviously don't get water on the bills because it's still ink on paper...


Have fun and don't get v&

oh there is logic... it's just that you are under 25 and it pisses you off

I support this. (especially as i am 33 and well off my p's...HAH)

having people require zero zero bac until they have been driving for a few years, and being unable to drive high powered cars is not a bad thing.

only prob I have is that it doesn't disqualify you from driving a commodore during that time :/

yeah I loved the last lot of p plate rules.

Smart car banned as it was a turbo, but a 200kw SV6 or xr6 is ok.

Also at time all volvos banned as they were turbos.

yes lets put them in less safe more powerful cars to drop road toll.

yeah I loved the last lot of p plate rules.

Smart car banned as it was a turbo, but a 200kw SV6 or xr6 is ok.

Also at time all volvos banned as they were turbos.

yes lets put them in less safe more powerful cars to drop road toll.

100% power / weight is a better idea

Ok so lets break it down...

(pre-2010) 3 years green = 3 years.

(2010 onwards) 1 year red P's + 3 years green = 4 years.

Minimum age to get a prohibatory (whatevs) licence = 18 years.

Minimum age to skip red P's (and 120hr log book) = 21 years.

Minimum age to get a full licence (2010 onwards) = 22 years.

Minimum age to get a full licence (pre-2010) = 21 years.

The worst of the graph is under 20, which is younger than the legal age to drink for a number of years. They dont mention what % of accidents have been proven to be caused by alcohol consumption of the 18-25yro's. and that graph is dating back to 1987?? wtf, a lot has changed since then.

Volvos, smart cars, Mercs, audis, turbo diesels can all be excempt from the turbo laws. But you have to apply and then receive confirmation of the excemption. I dont know how painful of a process it is though.

f**k it all, just give P platers an ultimatum: they f**k up once, they lose licence for 3 months. No fine, just suspension. That will have every P plater driving 10km/h under the speed limit guaranteed.

I enjoyed the first comment suggesting licenses should be awarded to 2% of people by lottery... would reduce road toll indeed lols.

Lol I'm off P's soon(-ish, not soon enough really :P) so really don't think it'd effect me / don't think they can apply in retrospect so much (or hope they can't, anyway :P).

But their solution to their "statistics" is a farce

Make defensive driving courses mandatory. and make it a pass/fail thing. those who fark around or those who are too timid will be sorted out. Its already expensive to get your licence, whats another $100

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You just need to remove the compressor housing, not the entire turbo. I would not be drilling and tapping anything with the housing still on anyways. 
    • So, I put my boat on a boat. First of all, I'm going to come out and say it. Why is Tasmania not considered a holy goal, an apex that all road-legal modified cars go to, to experience? This place is an absolute wonderland of titanic proportions. If people are already getting club runs for once in a lifetime 30 person cruises to Tassy then I've never seemed to see it. It is like someone replaced the entire place with an idyllic wonderland for cars, and all of the people living there with paid actors who are kind, humble, and friendly. Dear god. After doing a lap of almost all of the place I've found that it's a great way to find out all of the little things that the car isn't doing quite right and a great way to figure it all out. All in all, I drove for 4 hours a day for a week and nothing broke. I didn't even need to open the engine bay. This is by all means a great success, but it has left me with a list of things to potentially address. I also now have a 3D printed wheel fitment tool which annoyingly hasn't got any threads in it to actually assemble it. I might be able to tape it together to check the sizing I actually want to use, but it'll likely involving pulling the shocks out to properly measure travel at least at the front, and probably raise the car while I'm at it, at least in the rear. I scraped on quite a few things and I'm not sure how else to go about it. I was taking anything with a bump at what felt like 89 degree angles. And address those 10 other tasks. And wash the car. God damn it is dirty. And somehow, the weather was perfect the entire time - And because I was on the top of Mt Wellington it turns out it was very much about to freeze up there. I did something I typically never do and took some photos up there in what must have been -10 and the foggy felt like suspended ice, rather than mere fog. If you own a car in Australia, you owe it to yourself to do it.
    • Damn that was hilarious, and a bit embarrassing for skylines in general 😂 vintage car life ey. That R33 really stomped. Pretty entertaining stuff
    • Hi, I have a r32 gtr transmission. Does any of you guys have an idea how much power it will hold with the billet center plate and stock gearset? At what power level and use did yours brake with or without billet plate? Thanks, Oystein Lovik
    • Saw this replica police car based on a Mitsubishi Starion XX parked next to a 'police box' (it's literally a box) in Hirohata, Himeji City in Hyogo prefecture the other day. It's owned by Morii-san who is a local Mitsubishi Starion enthusiast. According to a local radio station blog post, he always wanted to make a police car himself based on ones he saw in his favourite Manga comics.  As it's illegal to modify a car to look like a police car and drive on the road, Morii-san tried many times to get permission from Aboshi police station headquarters nearby. They refused initially by after they got tired of that they granted him permission. However, the car can only be displayed on private property and obviously can't be registered as long as the police livery is present. The car was completed at a cost of 1.5 million yen (US$ 10,000) in addition to the car cost. A location was chosen outside Hirohata Police box where the car can easily been seen from the street. Morii-san has two other Starion road cars, both widebody GSR-VRs.
×
×
  • Create New...