Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Tyres do harden in the weather and tyres on cars are through heat cycles that help to keep them from hardening. The latter part may be total shit, but it made sense when I made it up.

Regardless, distributors note year of manufacture and sell older stock for cheap for a reason.

Yeah was thinking that too but got to consider tyres aren't made yesterday. Would be coming via boat from china which is months and by the time you buy them, they have been sitting for ages anyways.

Could argue a tyre going through heat cycles would cause more wear as it's expanding and contracting.

hmmm.... it's just that I've got an old set of tyres in the backyard out in the open, used to be in the shed but needed that space.

So two sets of wheels with tyres on both sets, and I want to swap them around.

Would they charge the usual or double because they're taking off and putting on twice?

I've got a pair of jack stands if you want to borrow.

Haha saw that today. Classic

Slow and annoying.

Bought a 34 GTT, saving up for another gtr or o/s trip.

You really need to just buy a car and stick to it

Hmmmm, what are AD08's worth in 265/35/18? Any good place to get them from, fitted, in South East or Bayside or even Dandenongish area?

Cheapest AD08's would be about 380-400 fitted

The newer AD08R's are $450-$500 fitted

O/S

play with cars later

I've done both before, think I might do both, can always sell the 34.

The o/s will be short burst not 3+ months like last time.

You really need to just buy a car and stick to it

It's wishful thinking really, blame it on my attention span and genes (father switched cars a lot, grandfather does every year before retiring).

I mean to actually swap the tyres from set 1, put them on set 2, and the tyres on set 2 to put on set 1.

Just jack up the car at each corner and swap each wheel one at a time. Will take 10 minutes tops...better than a car place doing it. Have a wheel brace if you need it.

Just jack up the car at each corner and swap each wheel one at a time. Will take 10 minutes tops...better than a car place doing it. Have a wheel brace if you need it.

I think young Jonoe meant taking tyres out from wheels set 1 to wheels set 2 and vice versa.

Costs me $5 a corner to have tyres swapped, $10 if I want them to get rid of the old tyres, seeing as you're keeping both sets though that's not gonna matter.

The benefits of living out in sticks, low overheads.

keep putting off doing research/pricing into semi's.... will wait for my RSRs to disintegrate. Probably wont go RE002s again either cause they pricey for what you get, but then again I dont really do enough kms for wear and tear to be a problem (other than -3.5 camber wear)

cool 7 degrees and wet on Mt Dandenong. yay

IMG_0088_zpsbb22ec33.jpg

this dude snuck up on me earlier. abdomen was bigger than my thumb

Abz where are you?

11degrees in melb ATM but being in the office and judging by the current status of my nipples, it's roughly 23.5 degrees.

hahaha lol'ed.

meant body temp with this constant fever. :/

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Brooooo Please send ABS control unit schematic Please! R33 gts25t ABS (Its two plug ecu, black and white) wire colors possible? [email protected]
    • Don't even try to run it on the stock ECU if you're going to have the boost controller bring boost above ~10 psi. I've already told you that. If you use the Nistune ECU, you will need to CAREFULLY read the available documentation for Neo tuning, and read some threads on the Nistune forums, to discover the various things you have to do to prevent the ECU from going bananas when the boost is too high. The is a table associated with th boost sensor that must be modified to prevent it from shitting the bed. This is just one of the things that you will need to do to the tune in Nistune, because the Neo turbo ECU will be expecting to see a number of things (such as the TCS) that are not there, and you have to block the DTCs on those. It is totally not surprising to me that you are having the problems that you are, but the solutions to these problems have been known for >15 years. So just get it done.
    • Hi. Sry iam not a mechanic and iam not at the car atm so i dont know 100% but they told they measure those and even try to change those. AFM they have two. Coils are new a they have my old one too. Plugs too. ECU...we have 25 NEO stock and Nistune 25 NEO.   But i dont know if any one those could be the problem and why/if/what can cause this, Only thing they did not check is fuel...but that walbro 255 is new(like 1,5 years)... That fuel pressure gauge idk...but i let them know Any suggestions?   EDIT: how can they know if it is like you say he ECU pull power when it reaches a specific boost level that is too high? Tha car has boost controler
    • Can you clarify what you mean by boost cut, do you mean it misfires both when under load (driving) and when stationary and out of gear? Or does the ECU pull power when it reaches a specific boost level that is too high (boost control issue)? Does it occur at idle with no throttle? When you say "the ECU is OK", what ECU is it and why do you think it is OK? Have you used the NEO ECU, and if so do you have a MAP sensor attached? Same for the AFM, why do you think it is OK? Do you have any way to put a fuel pressure gauge on it (even just a mechanical one between the fuel filter and fuel rail)?
×
×
  • Create New...