Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Most learned VWL, what's the go with allowing car registration to expire and then re-registering? Specifically wondering if there's any costs / need for RWC? I vaguely recall something about 3 months you can "re-reg" as opposed to "new-reg"... but assuming there is no way around the RWC etc. And if there's any additional re-reg costs... :S

All hard drive brands have their failures. I've got a faulty Seagate in mine, just cbf taking it out.

Didn't we swap that one over or remove it or something? can't remember now :(

I had an early model SSD die on me with a bunch of corrupted write errors, kept hosing my windows install... Friend of mine who built his PC at the same time had the exact same problem so we RMA'd them both... Serial numbers were 3 apart.

SSD Failures vs HDD Failures though, SSD's are awesome for reliability because of no moving parts... The Limited Writes isn't really an issue for home use unless you're using the first SSD's ever released.

^ This SSD SHIT on HDDs for reliability. ESPECIALLY on a laptop because its often moving places, placed down on desk etc.

Dezz do yourself a favour and make sure you get an SSD, heaps better than a normal HDD.

In terms of computer shops checked out scorptec? good service with decent prices.

your 1 year of rego starts on the day the rego expires, should you wish to rereg.

if you wait 2 months to re-reg, you'll have 10months of valid rego left, and still pay that 700ish.

This sounds a bit ridiculous. Having to pay registration for the months where it's unregistered = lolwut. Dat VicRoads cash grab.

when rego expires then you cannot drive car anymore.

if you pay it within 3 months then car rego again and all good.

after 3 months removed from system and you have to get full RWC and re-register the car

This is how I assumed it'll be. So if it's within 3 months, you DON'T need to grab an RWC, and just need to re-register the car? No extra fees? HOWEVER, then with regards to what Alvin said, you will be paying registration for 12 months starting from the ''initial" date it expired... as opposed to paying registration for 12 months starting from the date of re-registration ?

For example, lettuce say that registration expires 01 January 2015.

Scenario 1:

> Cannot drive vehicle as reg is expired

> As long as you "re-register" vehicle by 01 April 2015, you do not need RWC

> However, registration for "12 months" will only last until 01 January 2016

Scenario 2:

> Cannot drive vehicle as reg is expired

> Brand "new" registration required if registering vehicle AFTER 01 April 2015; RWC needed

> For argument's sake, say you do this registration on 02 April 2015

> Registration for "12 months" means this will be valid until 02 April 2016

These are the two possible alternatives?

This sounds a bit ridiculous. Having to pay registration for the months where it's unregistered = lolwut. Dat VicRoads cash grab.

This is how I assumed it'll be. So if it's within 3 months, you DON'T need to grab an RWC, and just need to re-register the car? No extra fees? HOWEVER, then with regards to what Alvin said, you will be paying registration for 12 months starting from the ''initial" date it expired... as opposed to paying registration for 12 months starting from the date of re-registration ?

For example, lettuce say that registration expires 01 January 2015.

Scenario 1:

> Cannot drive vehicle as reg is expired

> As long as you "re-register" vehicle by 01 April 2015, you do not need RWC

> However, registration for "12 months" will only last until 01 January 2016

Scenario 2:

> Cannot drive vehicle as reg is expired

> Brand "new" registration required if registering vehicle AFTER 01 April 2015; RWC needed

> For argument's sake, say you do this registration on 02 April 2015

> Registration for "12 months" means this will be valid until 02 April 2016

These are the two possible alternatives?

senario 1

I've done it with the mustang now and then as it been off raod for 4 years.

Haven't looked at the links yet, but sometimes the CPUs can be slightly different models, screen size might be the same say 15" but different resolutions (higher resolution = better / clearer) and some may only have on board graphics, others might have an additional card. (nvidia or ati)

edit: checked your links quickly, aren't they all the R750JV-T4207H?

Edited by UNR33L

Ishan come to me when you've (stupidly) paid rego on a car that doesn't exist for 5 years just to avoid getting a RWC again...

Didn't we swap that one over or remove it or something? can't remember now :(

Nah we took out one and gave it to you cause I was feeling charitable with my three hard drives. Then one of the ones we left in there carked it lol

Haven't looked at the links yet, but sometimes the CPUs can be slightly different models, screen size might be the same say 15" but different resolutions (higher resolution = better / clearer) and some may only have on board graphics, others might have an additional card. (nvidia or ati)

All have the same CPU spec listed (Intel® Core™ i7-4700HQ Processor (6M Cache, up to 3.40 GHz) / Leap motion)

All screens and resolutions the same except the JB one being 15.6" vs 17.3" for the others... and all have the same Nvidia 4gb graphics card

senario 1

I've done it with the mustang now and then as it been off raod for 4 years.

Interesting.

Ishan come to me when you've (stupidly) paid rego on a car that doesn't exist for 5 years just to avoid getting a RWC again...

Haha wut. It's not that RWC is a huge deal, as-is should pass no problems at all as it did some months ago. Just the registration timing atm is not ideal for me - as if it were delayed say a month~ish, I can have dat dere concession reg pricing. But if there's fees such as just getting a RWC etc, gotta weigh up whether that time + money is worth the saving (not to mention the fact I couldn't drive it for x amount of time).

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GCG is a good company, they're a major distributor for Garrett in Japan as well.
    • Nah, OEM washer bottle and brake fluid reservoirs are fine I don't know what it is with the plastic that Mazda used, some plastics, like the washer bottle and brake fluid res are fine, and still look new after 20 years use, where as the coolant expansion tank, and PS reservoir, that I replaced with new OEM items when I first got the car, turned yellow and started getting brittle a few years later If the dirty yellow stained plastics didn't trigger me there wouldn't be an issue, but they did, much like the battery bracket....... Meh As for going back to work full time to support car stuff, nope, why, because I own a Mazda NC MX5, not a Nissan R series Skyline 🤣
    • I've never heard of CJ-motor, so can't advise you on them. I'd just go straight to GCG for a GCG highflow though. Seems no point to use a middleman. I'm somewhat surprised that the price on the CJ site is lower than the GCG retail price. Even though CJ would get a discount of some sort, you would hardly expect them to give up so much margin. Maybe the price is out of date? Having said that "I'd go to GCG"...when I did my highflow, I went to Hypergear. I did this https://hypergearturbos.com/product/rb25dethighflow/#tab-dyno-results with the R34 OP6 450HP profile. With the BB centre (extra $400) and intially with the standard boost actuator, but I eventually got him to send me the high pressure one when I got to the point of being able to actually use it. Ends up costing the same sort of money as the GCG highflow, but this is, of course, the turbo that I KNOW has a shorter length core and so moves the comp cover rearwards. The GCG apparently doesn't do that. My mechanic also swears by the GCG highflow, given that we have another turbo rebuilder who does something essentialy the same as theirs, using Garrett wheels. He says it stands up at really low revs and makes good power. I haven't pushed my HG highflow past ~240-250rwkW yet (should have a little more in it, but unclear how much) and it does have a fairly gentle boost ramp. OK, it's much better now that I have gotten my boost controller tuned up on it.  A lot of my earlier unhappiness was because I couldn't keep the wastegate flap as closed as it needed to be (including some mechanical issues). I'd still prefer it to boost up nearly as quickly as the stocker, and it certainly a bit slower than that. So maybe the GCG one is worth the first look (for you).
    • Ok thanks 🙂 I will higly consider this. Any "known" company for a good reviews and experience to send that off? Is that CJ-motor good one? Or go straight to GCG site? I need to use VPN to even find some of those "shops" let alone access them 🙂 
    • You can literally put in as much WMI as it takes to quench the combustion totally (and then back it off a little, obviously), and it will keep making more and more power. The power comes from the cooling effect of the water (and the meth) and the extra fuel (the meth, which also has massive octane). It is effectively exactly like running E85. One might be slightly better than the other, but they are damn close. But with either you can lean on the boost or the timing (or both) waaaay more than with just petrol and the results are similar. Here's the first thing I googled for an anecdotal bit of evidence. Can't access the attachment without being a gold member, but it is there for the getting if able to, or searched up elsewise perhaps. https://www.hpacademy.com/forum/general-tuning-discussion/show/wmi-vs-e85/
×
×
  • Create New...