Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ideally you would work FIFO, be a tight ass and not spend your weekends drinking overpriced piss, living cheaply in Perth without impulse buying shit you don't need including koi tats / brand new air con compressors, and saving up for a few years before moving back to civilization and work another career path, post-mining boom, with a comfortable nest egg.

Ideally...

Hey...that aircon compressor was prior fifo. The work Meisters on the other hand....

Contrary to that, I'm actually all for enjoying your money (a tad sensibly) during your most youthful and active years when you can actually use the shit to it's full extent. Don't see the point to being a retired 50 year old millionaire with fk all life experiences, passing on your matured investments to some ungrateful bastards who will probably slack off and live off your hard work!

  • Like 1

Turbo Territory lol, eats sports cars for breakfast!

Think about the tuning potential of that Hemi too...

http://twinturbocreations.com/ttc/gallery/video/worlds-fastest-srt8-jeep/

http://uncrate.com/stuff/hennessey-jeep-grand-cherokee-hpe800/

already thought

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
    • I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
    • You just need a wheel alignment after, so just set them to the same as current and drive to the shop. As there are 2 upper links it may also be worth adding adjustable upper front links at the same time; these reduce bump steer when you move the camber (note that setting those correctly takes a lot longer as you have to recheck the camber at each length of the toe arm, through a range of movement, so you could just ignore that unless the handling becomes unpredictable)
    • I got adjustable after market rear camber arm to replace the stock one's because got sick of having to buy new rear tyres every few months. Can anyone please let me know what the best adjustment length would be. I don't have the old ones anymore to get measurements. I'm guessing the stock measurement minus a few mm would do it. Please any help on replacing them would be fantastic I've watched the YouTube clips but no-one talks about how long to set the camber arm to.
    • Heh. I copied the link to the video direct, instead of the thread I mentioned. But the video is the main value content anyway. Otherwise, yes, in Europe, surely you'd be expected to buy local. Being whichever flavour of Michelin, Continental or Pirelli suits your usage model.
×
×
  • Create New...