Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Well an officer of the law told us when p platers get there points reset. He said to us every 3 years, you'd think a police officer would know these kinds of things.

It is a load of shit to be honest. First we went to the police telling them it was hes friend who did it. The police said sorry you have to go to vicroads we cant help you. So i drove him to vicroads, they said they cant help him, they gave him the number to the department that controls fines and all that, i forgot the name of it. He called them and they said the only way to get the fine to your friend is to prove he did it, only way to do that is to get him to appear in court and sign a paper admitting he was the one driving the car. He reckons he lost the paper but im not even sure if hes friend was even going to sign, if hes friend did sign he was going to lose hes license and pay a massive fine.

Why would they know?

Victoria Police are NOT responsible for the Demerit Point system. That is VicRoads responsibility... The penalties the Vic Police apply are pre-described so they are just following instruction essentially.

The declaration, on the back of the fine, just fill that out and then it's not your friends problem anymore. It clearly stipulates that on the form.

I think it's just a case of you don't know what you are talking about. I don't mean that in a bad way, just that all the information is out there and you just aren't taking any notice of it.

Someone keyed my bonnet while the car was sitting just in my sister's driveway tonight. Probably some drunk lowlifes at the party next door. On the upside, now I have more motivation to fix the paint chips in the bonnet. :(

Someone keyed my bonnet while the car was sitting just in my sister's driveway tonight. Probably some drunk lowlifes at the party next door. On the upside, now I have more motivation to fix the paint chips in the bonnet. :(

Insurance?

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So.... the K&N air box thingo was too big, ended up gifting it to a mate, well, by gifting it he actually supplied food and beer at the pub,  which was nice, as it will not sit on a shelf in the garage for the next 10 years I did trim up some of the existing stuff to neaten it all up and gave it some wrinkle paint, unfortunately it currently has a used and abused mish mash of different types of hose clamps, 4 big fat T bolt type (shit), and a few normal clamps of vairing sizes and brands, but..... only until the 6 constant tension black worm clamps that I ordered from EFI solutions turn up next week Currently the current hose clamps are triggering me hard, LOL Is this the final version, probably not, I really want just 2 silicone pieces, a straight bit of silicone from the filter to the MAF is easy and will happen as soon as I head into Just Jap tomorrow, the problematic part is a 30° silicone bend from the MAF to the TB that I can connect the engine breather from the head, I found that there are bulk head fittings for boat bilge pumps that should work, but until I can get a 30° silicone bend the alloy pipe, and the 11ty thousand hose clamps, are there for the foreseeable future 4 hose clamps are golden, 6 are grudgingly acceptable, the 8 currently holding it all together is just taking the piss    I've also ordered 60 more retaining wall blocks for the front yard, I mis-gonculated the height that was required to get above the base of the Photinia's (red robin's) that are the hedge behind the front fence, currently it is 2 blocks high, and about 1/2 a block short, so going 3 blocks high will be above the base of the red robin's, and allow some room for mulch
    • It is the stock air box with the panel filter. Everything else is stock except the exhaust at this point, as I also went back to the cleaned 270cc injectors. I will check the RPM when the IACV is unplugged and report back.
    • As MBS suggested if this is happening when the engine is cold you're going to want to remove the intake air regulator and verify resistance + that the shutter is physically opening and closing. At -20C should be fully open, 20C half open, over 60C fully closed. At 20C should be 70-80 ohms. For AAC valve testing using a Consult cable see if you can raise and lower the idle by commanding more or less AAC duty cycle. Hopefully it's pretty linear as well, shouldn't be like 30% AAC valve is barely idling and 40% is 1500 rpm.
    • Bloody apprentices! 🙄
    • Not sure yet.  Was considering speedtek because it was rated to 800hp, but when I did some research about him I don't think I will go for that🤣 So maybe giken gear set, but I'm afraid it won't be strong enough🙄
×
×
  • Create New...