Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

+1 would review Birds food because my life is empty and I have little else to do.

Also I am known to do stupid things like drive very long distances to try random things which no sane person really would.

Also 2x HWP cars ignored me hard on the way home from frankston, as did a booze bus after making eye contact with the guy deciding who to wave through or not, on Springvale road.

This means something will surely explode tomorrow.

+1 would review Birds food because my life is empty and I have little else to do.

Also I am known to do stupid things like drive very long distances to try random things which no sane person really would.

Also 2x HWP cars ignored me hard on the way home from frankston, as did a booze bus after making eye contact with the guy deciding who to wave through or not, on Springvale road.

This means something will surely explode tomorrow.

I have never met you but I will gladly invite you into my home for a small meal and share my overpriced scotch with you

abouts 1 years tuition at a catholic high school.

and the homoerotic scars stay for life.

so $2-5k I can get around that

but as for a guy that drives a pulsar calling me ghey... that could be an issue

so $2-5k I can get around that

but as for a guy that drives a pulsar calling me ghey... that could be an issue

Yeah around there. Longer wheelbase, better screwed together WRX ;)

I paid $1600 for the current car with 3 months NSW reg still on it. Was listed at 2k which was stupid cheap already for how neat a car it is. Got him down less a couple of bits I didn't want/already had(Boost controller, Wideband 02, WRX seats). Parting out the 2nd grey one made me enough cash to pretty much have covered the purchase price of all 3 and half the fruit I've bought so at this point the car owes me bugger all with a nice spec list.

Prices seem to move around a bit. Couple of months back a bloke I know moved onto a 4th gen STi and sold his white RS with all of the usual handling bits, coilovers, sti 4.44 box/diff basically everything except engine upgrades for 3.5 which is ridiculous. Another bloke I know has a grey one currently for sale for 6 iirc. Not so much handling upgrades there but has V3 STi engine/box/diff VF23, GD STi seats etc.

There was apparently 964 ausdel RS all up. ~500 sedans in 92 and ~250 each sedans and wagons in 93 and obviously considerably less now. So there's always some demand for nicer cars and a lot of the RS nutters expect them to jump in price in future but I'm not too convinced. There's also likely a few hundred Jap imports Most common are Legacy GT wagons and most seem to be autos far fewer JDM GT & RS sedans and even NA variants like my VZ. The Jap cars are better specced if you want luxuries but all ausdels have cruise control, foglights etc with the only options being ABS, Sunroof and very rare leather.

Miguele raises the used car salesman bar in VWL.

also, GTX28 equipped Golf R is pretty quick. wouldnt be cheap, especially with DSG upgrades. but 10.6sec pass is quick

shame the owner went for stage 3 pack instead of just buying the parts outright.

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • OK, next the shroud needs to come off and there are a couple of tricks. Firstly, there is a loom from near the passenger side headlight to the fans, coolant temp sensor etc and there is no plug to undo.  In my case I was OK to leave the shroud on top of the engine so I just undid the passenger side fan plug and about 10 of the clips which gave enough free wire to put it aside. The fan plugs were super tight, the trick I used was a small falt screwdriver to push down on the release tab, then a larger flat screwdriver to lever the plug out of the fan unit....be careful with how much force you apply! If you need to remove the shroud altogether for some reason you will have to deal with all the plugs (tight) and clips (brittle)....good luck. I removed all of the clips and replaced them with cable ties that I will just cut next time. Also, in the Red Sport / 400R at least, the intake heat exchanger reservoir hose is bolted to the shroud in 2 places with 10mm headed bolts; so remove them (the hose stays in the car; no need to undo it at the t fittings down at the radiator lower mount. Once you've dealt with the HX hose and the wiring loom, there are 3x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the shroud to the radiator; remove those.   The shroud then lifts out of the bottom mounts where it sits on the radiator, up and onto the engine out of the way. Simples
    • Ok, disregard my “rate them” comment, sorry for my unrealistic input
    • OK, now we are ready to get started. You need to remove the air boxes on each side for clearance. The cover is straightforward, undo the clips on the top and lift the front cover out of the rest of the housing. If it is tight you can remove the air filters first. The rear section of the airbox is trickier. On each side you need to remove the Air flow meter wiring which is held to the airbox with a clip; you need to get behind the clip on 2 sides if you want to remove it without breaking it - unclip the harder side and pull on the clip with medium force, then unclip the easier side and it should pop out The airbox is held onto the intake hose with a spring clamp; you need to get a flat bladed screwdriver behind the spring on both sides and pop them outwards. When you have got them in the right unclipped place they will stay there and the airbox slips out pretty freely. Put a rag in the intake to prevent anything getting dropped in there, and also to prevent you seeing that the turbo seal is leaking oil (as they do). Then. The top of the radiator is held by a steel plate, it is secured by 2x10mm and 2x12mm headed bolts . Remove them and remove the plate Also grab the bushings that hold the radiator to the plate on each side so they are not lost!
    • Next, remove the upper and lower radiator hoses, both are held with a spring clamp. While you are under there, tackle the Auto Trans cooler lines.  Again both are held on with spring clamps, and as mentioned above you should cap them on the radiator side with an 8mm cap, and on the car side loop them with a length of 8mm pipe - this will stop you losing a dangerous amount of AT fluid during the rest of the job If you've been meaning to add a sender for AT trans temp, this is a great time to do it; put a sender fitting into the passenger side line as that is the inlet to the cooler/radiator.
    • Next you need to remove the intake duct (as with pretty much every job on these cars), it is a series of clips you gently remove with a flat bladed screwdriver. They do get brittle with time and can break, and I have not found a decent quality aftermarket one that fits (they are all too soft or flimsy and don't last either) but the nissan ones are a couple of bucks each (ouch).  Once the clips are off (either 8 or 10, I didn't check) you lift the intake duct out and will see the reservoirs Undo the line into the radiator side cap (some bent needle nosed piers are awesome for spring clamps) and then remove the 4x 10m nuts that hold both in place.  I didn't get these pics, but remove the line under the radiator reservoir (spring clamp again) then remove that reservoir. Then you can get at the intake reservoir, same thing, spring clamp underneath then remove it. BTW This is a great time to put in a larger (+70%) combined reservoir that AMS makes..... https://www.amsperformance.com/product/q50-q60-red-alpha-coolant-expansion-tank/ They also make an Infiniti branded and part# version if that is your thing
×
×
  • Create New...